137LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
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05-04-2015, 06:59 AM
Interesting move there Frank. You took 10 grams of weight off the front with a LP servo, but then added 12 by removing plastic and moving the battery forward.
I would look into the heavier LP servos. I know there's a few like the protek LP that are actually the same or heavier than a normal sized servo.
I would look into the heavier LP servos. I know there's a few like the protek LP that are actually the same or heavier than a normal sized servo.
05-04-2015, 07:30 AM
14g under the rack was always good in my B5. Also, use the smallest pinion and spur you can to move the motor forward and pucks remove about 30 grams from rear of the car.
05-04-2015, 07:53 AM
Tech Initiate
05-04-2015, 07:56 AM
you need to use caged or the MIP thrust. those retain the balls and keep them from scoring the outdrive.
05-04-2015, 08:12 AM
check yo balls man. everyone knows this.
ice cube said it best.. "check yo self before you wreck yo self"
Which was also a great sample reuse from "The Message" - Grand Master Flash and the Furious Five.
ice cube said it best.. "check yo self before you wreck yo self"
Which was also a great sample reuse from "The Message" - Grand Master Flash and the Furious Five.
05-04-2015, 08:23 AM
Did you lengthen wheel base? reduce wing to 0 deg.
I spent a little time getting the stable mate's car to go around the track without buying a bunch of parts. I ended up doing the top 2 items plus dropping to 2.5 on the oem plastic toe.. omg that's a beeeeootch to change. not exactly 2 screws like the b4. Other changes were shock mounting location. I considered the brass bulkhead but without messing with shocks and gearing to move motor forward i figured i would wait.
I spent a little time getting the stable mate's car to go around the track without buying a bunch of parts. I ended up doing the top 2 items plus dropping to 2.5 on the oem plastic toe.. omg that's a beeeeootch to change. not exactly 2 screws like the b4. Other changes were shock mounting location. I considered the brass bulkhead but without messing with shocks and gearing to move motor forward i figured i would wait.
05-04-2015, 08:50 AM
Did you lengthen wheel base? reduce wing to 0 deg.
I spent a little time getting the stable mate's car to go around the track without buying a bunch of parts. I ended up doing the top 2 items plus dropping to 2.5 on the oem plastic toe.. omg that's a beeeeootch to change. not exactly 2 screws like the b4. Other changes were shock mounting location. I considered the brass bulkhead but without messing with shocks and gearing to move motor forward i figured i would wait.
I spent a little time getting the stable mate's car to go around the track without buying a bunch of parts. I ended up doing the top 2 items plus dropping to 2.5 on the oem plastic toe.. omg that's a beeeeootch to change. not exactly 2 screws like the b4. Other changes were shock mounting location. I considered the brass bulkhead but without messing with shocks and gearing to move motor forward i figured i would wait.
05-04-2015, 09:08 AM
Thanks for the info. I will rebuild my diff tonight.
05-04-2015, 09:11 AM
Tech Master
Running a Novak balistic 17.5, 69/31 right now. I'm thinking of getting another motor. I bought it used, and used it for a season in 17.5 sct. I've narrowed my choice to the Trinity d4 1s short stack, or the hobbywing bandit. Any thoughts of either? Anyone run them both?
05-04-2015, 10:00 AM
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (2)
Has anyone encountered their rear wheels rubbing against the tops of the hubs on either the ballstud locknut or the plastic itself? On my AE wheels there's very light grooves in the plastic but on my DE ones its relatively deeper.
Wonder if it's making my electronics heat up faster..
Wonder if it's making my electronics heat up faster..
05-04-2015, 10:03 AM
Tech Master
05-04-2015, 10:54 AM
What good gearing for the stock spur for a 8.5 ? This is a medium sized outdoor track. Also If I go to a 78 spur what would be good gearing? Thanks
05-04-2015, 10:58 AM
i would start with the manuals recommendation
05-04-2015, 11:26 AM
Manual says align servo horn to 90 degrees. this can not be done . horn sits leaning to left or right and will not align to 90degrees. so the steering link is to long or to short. If i try to correct with steering trim I loose steering in one direction and it becomes undrivable.
05-04-2015, 11:45 AM
It is impossible to follow the instructions... thats my problem.....
Manual says align servo horn to 90 degrees. this can not be done . horn sits leaning to left or right and will not align to 90degrees. so the steering link is to long or to short. If i try to correct with steering trim I loose steering in one direction and it becomes undrivable.
Manual says align servo horn to 90 degrees. this can not be done . horn sits leaning to left or right and will not align to 90degrees. so the steering link is to long or to short. If i try to correct with steering trim I loose steering in one direction and it becomes undrivable.