Hooplah

iTrader: (2)

Taps can't hurt, unless like Wildcat said they leave it too loose. Some of the screws go really deep and that causes a lot of resistance and stress on the hex during the initial tap.

Socket

iTrader: (61)

I use a HSS jobber tap.

Absolutely tremendous.

RCBuddha

iTrader: (40)

I've been using various 4/40 and 3mm taps with a t-handle for decades. Never had a problem with any of my screws not being able to remain tight.

FWIW, I always use a little Tamiya AW grease to help cut the initial threads. I never use a power driver to tap holes, always by hand at a moderate to slow(ish) speed. Sometimes I let the part cool a little if I feel it heating up too much.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

Joe do you have a link? I wouldnt like to having a good 3mm tap. I googled "HSS Jobber tap 3mm" and didnt see a good match

Socket

iTrader: (61)

I have two - a bottom tap and a taper tap.

https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0326902?r=~|categoryl1:%22601071%20Cutting%20Tools %209and%20Metalworking%22|~%20~|categoryl2:%226011 02%20Threading%20and%20Tapping%22|~%20~|categoryl3 :%22612644%20Taps%22|~%20~|categoryl4:%22601103%20 Hand%20(Straight%20Flute)%20Taps%22|~%20~|attrdiam eter:119600|~%20~|sattr02:^0.5$|~

And


https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0326850?r=~|categoryl1:%22601071%20Cutting%20Tools %209and%20Metalworking%22|~%20~|categoryl2:%226011 02%20Threading%20and%20Tapping%22|~%20~|categoryl3 :%22612644%20Taps%22|~%20~|categoryl4:%22601103%20 Hand%20(Straight%20Flute)%20Taps%22|~%20~|attrdiam eter:119600|~%20~|sattr02:^0.5$|~

Mason

Victornet from nyc has RH 2mm taps, starting, plug and bottoming. Rdg tools (UK) has right and left hand taps in all 3. Just remember that the turnbuckle threads are not metric.

glenng

iTrader: (1)

Victornet Machining is awesome. i been there a couple times for metric taps and a bunch of other things. they are out in brooklyn somewhere.

glenng

iTrader: (1)

cant beat this. usa made, all 3 3mm taps. just get a 2.5mm drill bit to throw in that plastic case and a t-handle if you dont have one:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Speedychris22

iTrader: (68)

I just put together a b5m lite and noticed that it came with the reg front tower and not the rm tower. I though everyone was running the rm tower? Sorry if repetitive question, new to associated

jmcelroy42

iTrader: (10)

Contact AE they will send you the RM tower which is what you need for the flat arms. Someone else had that happen too a few pages back.

ARB

So I just got back in to the hobby. I purchased a B5M kit new and a B5 used. I just about have the "M" together but the indoor track that I was going to race it at has a questionable future and might be going out of business. There is an outdoor track that I can run at. It's a lot looser it drys out fast and the traction just isn't there like it would be indoor clay. Should I just run the B5 there and hope the indoor stays open to run the "M"? How does the "M" perform on an outdoor track like that?

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

If you bought a B5M car, and it came with the B5M arms and the B5M shock tower, it came with the right parts. If it did not come with a B5 tower, that would be expected as you didn't buy a B5.

If you want to run B5 arms, most will tell you it is best to run the B5 shock tower at the same time. You CAN run the B5M tower with the B5 arms, you just need to run 2 additional mm of limiters in the front shocks. The geometry is slightly different, and it will limit your up travel just a tad.

Mason

He bought the Factory Lite kit.

Socket

iTrader: (61)

The lite kit is speced to run the flat arms and tower.

Socket

iTrader: (61)

No. The M is a more than capable outdoor car. You just need to learn to set it up, and correctly drive it.