jjahn

iTrader: (1)

Probably because they are out of stock a lot.

JeepnMike

iTrader: (17)

There is that. I also haven't had good luck with my shorty SMC packs, they puff easier than the others I have used (while being handled and stored correctly). I have had good luck with SMC 4s packs, but with the Shorty packs, I have actually had best luck with Turnigy A-Spec shorty packs.

jerzi

Here is my new carbon kickup chassis with an carbon upperplate.
Works really nice. Very easy to drive.
Not so stiff like the original setup.
Car weights 1489gr with minipins and shorty.
Did well in the last competition.
Jerzi

Photocycler

iTrader: (36)

Does anyone have the part #'s or names of parts to convert the standard B5m tranny over to the 3 gear included in the Lite kit?

Mizchief

I've had that issues along with some other local guys with their race formula 4600 packs but the standard factory spec 4400 packs have been fine. They still have plenty of punch and run time for even the 4wd buggies and are only $35

I think the 4600 just have too much cell stuffed in to the standard case. While the do swell they aren't "puffed" and still work fine. At least in my case.

Even if using the same cells from the same factory, I know SMC hand selects, tests and matches the cells and use higher quality solder and all that good stuff. Also end up being cheaper due to local shipping and service is top notch.

Thomas PA

You need the case, top shaft, motor plate, and gear cover. If you're on a budget, you can countersink your current motor plate on the other side.

timannnn6

iTrader: (140)

That is false info. Danny does not match the cells. He does test them and offers packs that have low IR but does not build any batteries himself. Companies like Thunder Power and Max Amps actually build their batteries in house; with that comes a higher price tag obviously.

SMC still awesome batteries though. I run the shorty's and have no issues whatsoever with puffing.

Photocycler

iTrader: (36)

Ok cool, so the internals are the same except for the top shaft? I assume the motor plate is a lightened one?

Matt Trimmings

iTrader: (170)

If you have the original 4 gear case you will need to steal the 5x10 bearings from the extra idler gear to use on the new top shaft. The original 4 gear case came with 6x10 bearings for the top shaft.

QDRHRSE

iTrader: (515)

nope, the topshaft bearings are a different too. I have a whole set in the garage. if you can wait till tomorrow morning i can dig up everything and post the #'s.

QDRHRSE

iTrader: (515)

While its true they are all made in the same place there are now a dozen companies making them. I know that Orion makes their own though.....regardless, I've had enough Turnigy packs take a crap that I won't buy them. I've been using SMCs for 5 years and was happy to pay $90-100 for their packs when they were more available through retailers. Now that they are super cheap I buy a lot of them. The only cells that I have had test better are Trinity cells and those are big bucks now.

QDRHRSE

iTrader: (515)

I have 4 or 5 of those, they are fine for mod. They use to have a 4600 Race Spec that was outstanding. As soon as he [Danny] finds a new supplier they'll get back on track. Their 5800 square packs are a great deal too.

Tbone17

iTrader: (10)

I bought my B5M off the forums here, it came with a gear diff installed and a ball diff amongst the spare parts.

Tonight I cleaned and rebuilt the ball diff, tore out the transmission, split the cases and replaced the gear diff with the ball diff. When I closed the cases I found to my surprise that the diff slides side to side between the bearings. I'm guessing that what was given to me was not actually for this car. The gear meshes properly and the outdrives fit the bearings properly but the outdrives either need spacers(none shown in the manual) or are are incorrect as the shoulder for the bearings inner race isn't in the right spot.

Any ideas? Unless I'm missing something it looks like I'll be buying a new ball diff that's actually for this car.

JeepnMike

iTrader: (17)

You are right. I should have worded my last post with the term swell and not puff, I know there is a big difference, sorry about that. My shorty (4600) SMCs swell a bit more than I would like, specifically near the posts. I have also had struggles with one of my SMC packs with one cell not wanting to balance which drove me nuts, and I balance them at every charge. In terms of performance, they have always worked well. I just expect a lot from a pack everyone here raves about. My 4s SMC packs have been perfect after 2 years of mild to moderate use.

Seeds

iTrader: (4)

I use diff spacers. They come I brass and steel. They are of different thickness to shim correctly. I install thr diff on the side the input shaft is on and check how the diff gear lines up. Add shims over the outdrives till the diff gear matches up (lines up) with the idler. Then put the other half of the case on with everything in it..as if you were ready to assemble it all. Once tightened, check the play of the ball diff. If it still wiggles too much, un-screw the case again and add a shim or 2 depending on how much room you think it is moving. There should be a little wiggle side to side when the case is all together tightened as normal. Just putting the case together and holding it by hand will not give you the correct effect. Add or subtract shims as needed. Again, should not be tight..need play. They also make shims (McMaster carr) that also fit the input shaft to eliminate play. These need to be put in between the input shaft flange (where the bearing rests)and the bearing
NOT between the bearing and the case on the end of the gear side of the input shaft (22 teeth side) as this doesn't work.
Search McMaster Carr for the correct shims.bi found some HPI trans shims that worked perfect from the Blitz. Hope that helps.