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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 04-22-2024, 12:09 PM   -   Wikipost
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Old 03-11-2015, 01:51 PM
  #19261  
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Originally Posted by jjahn
For what reasons? Only thing I don't like is the tight configuration with all the electronics, oh and parts support, which is kind of a big deal.
There's a few good reasons right there....
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Old 03-11-2015, 02:01 PM
  #19262  
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Originally Posted by jjahn
For what reasons? Only thing I don't like is the tight configuration with all the electronics, oh and parts support, which is kind of a big deal.
Seems like the 2 that run here break. Alot. And I wouldn't run any car that doesnt have vertical ballstud adjustment now-a-days
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Old 03-11-2015, 03:07 PM
  #19263  
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[QUOTE=racer1812;13899358]Awesome, you made a MM 1989 Graphite RC10 with updated parts.[/QUOTE

Hi.
thanks.
This must be ready tomorrlw, race on saturday..
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Old 03-11-2015, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
There's a few good reasons right there....
Lol true, I knew someone would say that!
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Old 03-11-2015, 03:13 PM
  #19265  
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Originally Posted by Jack Smash
Seems like the 2 that run here break. Alot. And I wouldn't run any car that doesnt have vertical ballstud adjustment now-a-days
Good to know, thank you. I just have the go ahead to spend the funds and I want to buy it before she changes her mind! Plus I hate waiting. Knowing that I can get some decent hop ups plus the light chassis all in one package means I can't settle on the regular one.

I was really considering the Durango DEX210v2, I liked the DEX408 way better than my RC8.2e, but I always get sucked into associated vehicles.

Last edited by jjahn; 03-11-2015 at 03:18 PM. Reason: added
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Old 03-11-2015, 03:41 PM
  #19266  
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Originally Posted by RobsRacin
Anybody got any ideas for increasing rear traction? Im box stock other than rear motor arms front and rear. 24mm on the ride height.
Ensure you have proper/broken in rear tires. Other than that, here are things to try:


open cell foams in rear tire
3+1 toe/antisquat
shim rear hubs all the way forward
move battery all the way rear
27.5 weight oil/1.6 piston/green spring/26.5mm exposed shaft rear shock
longer front shock shaft exposed (or verify to 20.5mm)
lay rear shock down to inside hole on tower
0.5 degree rear hub inserts
cut the outside braces on waterfall mount
loosen screws that mount brace to transmission case
2mm on plastic rear camber mount
brass c mount
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Old 03-11-2015, 06:13 PM
  #19267  
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My guys at the HS said they should have the lite by the 15, fingers crossed
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Old 03-11-2015, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Toiffel
My guys at the HS said they should have the lite by the 15, fingers crossed
Not to be a downer, but that was probably the original date. Referring to the post about the phone call to Associated and assuming that the person on the phone is actually in the know, then I would say if Team Associated doesn't know, then the your lhs doesn't know. I hope I'm wrong!
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Old 03-11-2015, 06:50 PM
  #19269  
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Originally Posted by Deluxe312
Ensure you have proper/broken in rear tires. Other than that, here are things to try:


open cell foams in rear tire
3+1 toe/antisquat
shim rear hubs all the way forward
move battery all the way rear
27.5 weight oil/1.6 piston/green spring/26.5mm exposed shaft rear shock
longer front shock shaft exposed (or verify to 20.5mm)
lay rear shock down to inside hole on tower
0.5 degree rear hub inserts
cut the outside braces on waterfall mount
loosen screws that mount brace to transmission case
2mm on plastic rear camber mount
brass c mount
I will try a few of these out, thank you!
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Old 03-11-2015, 09:12 PM
  #19270  
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I know it's been covered but I can't find it now. Someone posted a list of motor plates and weights. From stock to carbon. Where would I find that? Would be a good one to add on the first page.

Nick
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Old 03-11-2015, 09:31 PM
  #19271  
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Originally Posted by Cautrell05
I know it's been covered but I can't find it now. Someone posted a list of motor plates and weights. From stock to carbon. Where would I find that? Would be a good one to add on the first page.

Nick
I would be happy to add that list to the first page.
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Old 03-11-2015, 09:49 PM
  #19272  
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Originally Posted by jjahn
Good to know, thank you. I just have the go ahead to spend the funds and I want to buy it before she changes her mind! Plus I hate waiting. Knowing that I can get some decent hop ups plus the light chassis all in one package means I can't settle on the regular one.

I was really considering the Durango DEX210v2, I liked the DEX408 way better than my RC8.2e, but I always get sucked into associated vehicles.
I own a PRS1 and I think it's every bit as nice as a B5. Owning and running both I will say if you are starting out go with the associated since you can pop in to any LHS for parts. Other than that it's a choice. Both great cars.
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Old 03-11-2015, 10:29 PM
  #19273  
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Originally Posted by RobsRacin
Anybody got any ideas for increasing rear traction? Im box stock other than rear motor arms front and rear. 24mm on the ride height.
Not sure what sort of track you are racing on, but I have put together a setup guide for the B5M on our typical tracks downunder which may be of interest to readers of this thread (see the pdf at the bottom of the link
http://www.rctech.net/forum/10587848-post4.html

Our tracks generally arent super high grip but we have got the B5M working better than the rear motor in pretty much every condition including very low traction. Its an amazingly versatile car!

Ray
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Old 03-11-2015, 10:31 PM
  #19274  
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Originally Posted by RCBuddha
I would be happy to add that list to the first page.
Cool. Now we just need to find that post. I'm pretty sure it was in this thread but I don't remember where.
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Old 03-11-2015, 10:44 PM
  #19275  
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Default Building Ultimate B5M

Building the ultimate B5M for both stock and maybe mod

I am wanting to get back into RC racing.
Old time Ultima and Laser owner from long time ago....

Looking at mid mount Rb6 or B5M

I am asking for your experience and knowledge to built the ultimate B5M so when when i race i can not blame the car when i come last each rce...

ASC90003 - Team Associated B5M Team Mid Motor 2WD Competition Electric Buggy Kit
LRP80970 - LRP "Flow" WorksTeam Brushless ESC
LNS2006 - Lunsford "Punisher" Associated B5/B5M Titanium Turnbuckle Kit (6)
ASC232 - Reedy Sonic Mach 2 Spec Brushless Motor (17.5T)
ASC91373 - Team Associated Front Shock Tower
ASC91398 - Team Associated "Flat" Front Arm Set
ASC29167 - Team Associated DS1015 High Torque/Speed Digital Servo w/Heatsink
SHL1300 - Schelle Racing Nova "Buggy" Slipper Assembly
ASC91520 - Team Associated RC10B5M Aluminum Rear Ballstud Mount (Blue)
MIP14195 - MIP Aluminum Hard Coated Associated B5/B5M Top Shaft
MIP14230 - MIP "Pucks" Bi-Metal Associated B5/B5M R-CVD Drive System
ASC91600 - Team Associated RC10B5M Titanium Screw Kit (83)

JCO2346T - JConcepts B5/B5M Titanium Knurl Tip Front Axle Set
google Schelle-Ceramic-B5-Ceramic-Bearing-Set-SCH2300 (can not post links)


I based alot of this info from this link
google B5M_StephenBess_Project17.5Racer (can not post links)

I am a little confused about what i need to convert to a 3 gear box and if i need some extra parts. I would love to have a smooth running gear box/diff to keep it light and spinning as smooth as possible.

I didnt want to post a new thread in case i got spanked, 800 pages is alot of pages.
I tried to search for ulitmate, light weight 17.5 but couldnt find good info like above link.

If i can make this happen you will see the car made and run on local clay track (high grip)
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