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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 04-22-2024, 12:09 PM   -   Wikipost
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Old 03-02-2015, 09:21 AM
  #19051  
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Did anyone have to shave the brass or aluminum C mounts to get the locknut to sit flush? And/or possibly get a nut driver on there?
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Old 03-02-2015, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by air8
Did anyone have to shave the brass or aluminum C mounts to get the locknut to sit flush? And/or possibly get a nut driver on there?
You dont need a locknut on the aluminum piece...I just put a little bit of threadlock on the screw.
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Old 03-02-2015, 09:30 AM
  #19053  
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Originally Posted by air8
LOL. Same thought went through my head.



Jerzi did you lay the carbon fiber yourself, or did you purchase the material?
I did it my self.
Did an chassis mold out of nice wood.
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Old 03-02-2015, 09:30 AM
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I dont have nuts on mine. Just locktite.



So, last night I was working on my cars for cactus. I was going to build come front hubs with +3 and +4 inserts, then glue the inserts in. As usual, the +3 inserts worked well and were smooth and felt centered. The axle just fell all the way through both bearings and the axles are smooth. The +4 insert however, needed to have presure applied to get the axle through the bearings. And once they were "popped" in, there was heavy grinding and resistance. I tried to "work" the insert in and center them so I could glue them into the sweet spot. However, this was never to be the case. So, what prep work are you guys doing to center the +4 inserts? Sanding the outer edges of the inserts? I have never ever been able to get the +4 inserts smooth. The +3 are always pretty good.
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Old 03-02-2015, 10:41 AM
  #19055  
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Originally Posted by Razathorn
I believe the wing mount is 6º, then the shim forward makes 9º, and the shim backwards makes 3º. Run the shim on top in any orientation for 6º.
The wing mounts are 3 deg, so shim on top is 3 deg. Shim on bottom wedge up is 6 deg, shim flipped is 0 deg. I haven't tested this much, just my standard setup to run the shim on top of the wing.
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Old 03-02-2015, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
I dont have nuts on mine. Just locktite.



So, last night I was working on my cars for cactus. I was going to build come front hubs with +3 and +4 inserts, then glue the inserts in. As usual, the +3 inserts worked well and were smooth and felt centered. The axle just fell all the way through both bearings and the axles are smooth. The +4 insert however, needed to have presure applied to get the axle through the bearings. And once they were "popped" in, there was heavy grinding and resistance. I tried to "work" the insert in and center them so I could glue them into the sweet spot. However, this was never to be the case. So, what prep work are you guys doing to center the +4 inserts? Sanding the outer edges of the inserts? I have never ever been able to get the +4 inserts smooth. The +3 are always pretty good.
Interesting, do the +4s have the same issue when installed as +2? I have run 3 for a long time, I have a set of glued 4's. but they haven't made it into the car yet..
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Old 03-02-2015, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by MikeXray
Interesting, do the +4s have the same issue when installed as +2? I have run 3 for a long time, I have a set of glued 4's. but they haven't made it into the car yet..
yeah. I was looking at them last night. If i had to guess, I would say the location of the molding injection point is the issue. I tried several different hubs (hard and regular), I mixed hard inserts with plastic hubs and vice versa. Crush tubes and no crush tubes, lol. I can only think I need to sand them until they can align, then glue. But before I destroy all my parts trying to work out a technique, I was looking to see how others do it.
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Old 03-02-2015, 11:49 AM
  #19058  
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I dont seem to have this front wheel bearing issue. Mine stay free and not crunchy for awhile like at least 3 months.
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Old 03-02-2015, 01:38 PM
  #19059  
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You will once you switch your inserts around. My feeling is that the bearings "wear in" to that set of inserts/hub. You take those same bearings and swap inserts and they're instantly toast since they wore into the previous setup.

Someone like Exotek, Avid or Schelle need to make a new front hub and insert assembly that doesn't eat bearings. However that might cut into their bearing sales.....conspiracy!!

I've had better luck using the hard hub kits though.
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Old 03-02-2015, 01:49 PM
  #19060  
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These will help.

http://tkocompetitiondev.com/product...roducts_id=596
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Old 03-02-2015, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Peter Martin
We will see. I have some of those coming
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Old 03-02-2015, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Peter Martin
Peter Martin knows his stuff...even back in the 80's at Family Hobbies he was quick.....
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Old 03-02-2015, 02:06 PM
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Are those the same bearings they use in 1/8 scale clutches? They didn't last very long either, maybe even less. I was removing the grease and re-lubing them with a light oil. Front axle bearings seem to last longer with the thick stock grease, just have to break them in. IMO
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Old 03-02-2015, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by busdriver
Are those the same bearings they use in 1/8 scale clutches? They didn't last very long either, maybe even less. I was removing the grease and re-lubing them with a light oil. Front axle bearings seem to last longer with the thick stock grease, just have to break them in. IMO
yeah, those are also used in his 8th scale clutch bearings. I know the real issue is bearing alignment in the inserts. I played with it for an hour last night and give up. I might just run the +3mm inserts. I have the +3 in my daughters car and it felt pretty good in practice.
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Old 03-02-2015, 03:44 PM
  #19065  
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Originally Posted by gogi108
Anyone running boosted 17.5 and can recommend a starting point for gearing ? Running hobbywing 3.1 esc and want to stick with the 72t spur .
Anyone ?
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