Jpdanger

I thought no shim was 0, shim bump down was 3, and shim bump up was 6???

wstuart

iTrader: (117)

So I just bought a b5m with a carbon fiber x-factory chassis kit

I was just wondering if anyone here has experience with that upgrade and could comment on the benefits and draw backs

I'll be racing stock (17.5) on medium to high bite indoor clay (SDRC)

Also - what is better ? 3 gear or 4 gear tranny?

Bubonic-X

iTrader: (4)

Associated doesn't make a factory carbon fiber chassis.... Do you X factory

jpcopeland1

iTrader: (166)

Sold on that idea as there is a part of my local track that gotten pretty rutted up from being there for so long. Should I use the offset bushings as well with axles up? Or keep the front hubs middle.

aeRayls

iTrader: (3)

The mount itself is 3. Shim with hole in front is 0 and shim with hole in back is 6

DG Designs

iTrader: (14)

Made the switch after 2 packs yesterday and pretty sure I'm staying for awhile. Definitely felt like i was more consistent. Hero lap was basically the same with both cars but made much fewer mistakes. And this is with making no changes to the dampening.Ca jumps so much better. For those of you who have driven the Reedy race set up i went from being able to clear the front triple only on the first couple laps to being able to clear it every lap even if i wasn't set up perfect. Just went to green front and 3mm trailing and Avid red rears(same as associated grey) Im running the square pack.
Next if going to try the 30 degree kick up as the monthly thing i felt like i was lacking over the MM was turn in.

aeRayls

iTrader: (3)

Playing with front droop on the rear car was huge for me. Since you're running stock and on the gas more than mod it should be more beneficial to run less droop. Try between 19.5 and 20mm

DG Designs

iTrader: (14)

Cool thanks. Actually didn't feel like it pushed coming out, Just plowed a little coming in. Track was dusty and there was a LOT of people there so i was hard to really get a good feel for it. Probably should have made more changes as i was converting it but i really wanted to get on the track! lol

tksnobords

iTrader: (36)

what do you guys think for the B5RM 17.5 stock racing? tekin rs gen2 esc with a trackstar 17.5 (gonna get a tekin 17.5rpm motor soon)? i dont really care about bullet size...i have a soldering iron

do any of you guys have these? if so, how do you like it?

3250mah shorty - $60 - 153 grams - 4mm bullets
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...FWgV7AodXBUAnQ

4500mah shorty - $70 - 220 grams - 5mm bullets
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...FYklgQodDYAAtA

5800mah square pack - $90 - 295 grams - 5mm bullets
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...FchQ7Aod-AYAbA

aeRayls

iTrader: (3)

You could try a tick more rear droop too.

With stock being so much on throttle compared to mod(usually anyway) corner entry and exit throttle points are vastly different. When I last raced stock it was usually on high bite indoor. I always ran longer camber links front and rear and usually less droop than all the mod setups. My stock game was pretty damn good too lol

wstuart

iTrader: (117)

Yeah x-factory

DG Designs

iTrader: (14)

Mine isn't generally! lol. Im shooting for the A in the old guy class at the Stock Nats in a few months.

Moyanator609

iTrader: (4)

does anyone have a link on how to do the b5m to b5 rear conversion kit build steps go? im thinking of doing it for the summer/ outdoor track. i bought the b5m converted from the b5 rear with the team associated conversion kit. so i have all the parts for the b5m and the b5 rear conversion. i mean should i even try it? or should i stick with mid motor only?

air8

iTrader: (7)

Ok cool. I just wanted to make sure. So what spacer or what do others use to take up the slop as if the shim wasn't there?

air8

iTrader: (7)

I started converting a rear to a mid last night, opposite of you, but I am using the online B5M manual and going through the steps as if I were building a mid motor.