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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 04-22-2024, 12:09 PM   -   Wikipost
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Old 02-24-2015, 11:57 AM
  #18841  
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
So you free'd up the drive train with ceramic bearings, to max your car's speed... then added heat to the motor with more drag brake which will net you less voltage across your run, and more heat in the motor.

(just playin with ya... wont do much)
I run mod captain, 7.5. I have yet to see my car come off hotter that 128 after ten min runs. But yeah it felt a little bound up or tight and everything was free except bearings so i did the whole car ceramic lol
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Old 02-24-2015, 12:21 PM
  #18842  
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Anyone have kyosho shocks on their b5m? Could u feel any difference? My rb6 is a lot smoother than my b5m so I was wondering if the shocks would have anything to do with that....
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Old 02-24-2015, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by rosko
Anyone have kyosho shocks on their b5m? Could u feel any difference? My rb6 is a lot smoother than my b5m so I was wondering if the shocks would have anything to do with that....
make the rb6 shocks the same length at the B5 shocks and try them. you already have them. you tell us.
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Old 02-24-2015, 12:42 PM
  #18844  
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I will i didn't put them on my car until I got home from the track. Just have to wait till this weekend
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Old 02-24-2015, 12:54 PM
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Anyone else get back from Motorama? There were a ton of B5ms in my heats. I tried a lot of stuff, made the B in stock, had bad mains though. Pretty much the normal setup, I thought I would be using clay tires most of the race based on last year, but M4 electrons had the best balance of the tires I had. (clay felt good the first couple of practice heats, then got loose). Every year I have a list of things to try "next" year, lol, but since there is so little practice you have to choose wisely. I even ran my B5R for one round, and it was good but the sensor wire got wrapped around the dogbone and snapped while on a good run I went back to the M after that and took out some steering and went a little faster.
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Old 02-24-2015, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by jmcelroy42
Here is all the info you need on the motor he's talking about.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...7-5-buggy.html

This was a great read! I wish that I had seen that before I bought regular D4s for most of my cars....I'm happy with the regular D4 so I could only imagine!

Also, for all you guys complaining about the expense of being competitve in stock racing....its in your head. The faster guys are are still going to beat you with slower cars. Driver skill and setup are just as important. The top guys at our track will run the same car in stock, mod, and expert and still rail everybody out.
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Old 02-24-2015, 01:16 PM
  #18847  
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Originally Posted by QDRHRSE
This was a great read! I wish that I had seen that before I bought regular D4s for most of my cars....I'm happy with the regular D4 so I could only imagine!

Also, for all you guys complaining about the expense of being competitve in stock racing....its in your head. The faster guys are are still going to beat you with slower cars. Driver skill and setup are just as important. The top guys at our track will run the same car in stock, mod, and expert and still rail everybody out.
I've finally swapped out my R1 a few times and can say for buggy they are both close, I think the D4ss has a little more bottom end, but both have tons of torque and need more gear than you think
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Old 02-24-2015, 01:39 PM
  #18848  
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I read a thread started by one of the Trinity drivers and geared exactly how he recommended and my regular D4 screams....it comes on power so hard it sounds like I have esc timing but I don't. I gear my buggy 69/34 w/50 degrees of timing and my SC 25/75 w/45 degrees. I'm really impressed with the regular old D4.
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Old 02-24-2015, 03:20 PM
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Ok thank's for your quick replies, when it come's to my rc car's I don't have a budget just like the Australian Labor party.Will have a look around the local hobby shop's and will let you know how it goes.

Regard's Garth.
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Old 02-24-2015, 03:31 PM
  #18850  
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[QUOTE=buster44;13869464]Ok thank's for your quick replies, when it come's to my rc car's I don't have a budget just like the Australian Labor party.Will have a look around the local hobby shop's and will let you know how it goes.

Regard's Garth.

Ps' In reply to my motor Question,you guy's move on quick on this forum.
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Old 02-24-2015, 03:48 PM
  #18851  
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Default Really struggling with rear traction

What are some different things to try other than changing tires I've done plenty of that track is a packed clay with a little dusting on the top typical out door track
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Old 02-24-2015, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by QDRHRSE
I read a thread started by one of the Trinity drivers and geared exactly how he recommended and my regular D4 screams....it comes on power so hard it sounds like I have esc timing but I don't. I gear my buggy 69/34 w/50 degrees of timing and my SC 25/75 w/45 degrees. I'm really impressed with the regular old D4.
How big is your track, what are some of the normal lap times?
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Old 02-24-2015, 07:48 PM
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The track is around 70 x 100 or so.....it might be a tad larger. Its outdoors and average guy laps are 21-22 second the faster experts hit 19s, I can occasionally run low 20s....I'm an averge to fast sportsman and a laggard expert. With my D3.5s I geared 69/30-32. The D4 didn't wake up until I over geared it.
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Old 02-24-2015, 08:03 PM
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We are about 30 x 60, 15 second laps in stock buggy with d4 at 72 / 32
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Old 02-24-2015, 08:25 PM
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We have a place in Three Rivers....I bet you race at that little indoor in Exeter. I've been dying to try it out but since we're always there to get away my wife always gives me the stink eye when I even bring it up.
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