Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
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#1816
You have to look at it as being able to upgrade to the B5 for only $109. Besides, you know the B4 is good. The B5 might have teething problems (remember when the 22 came out?). You might be happier with the older car that you know well while the B5 gets figured out.
#1817
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
Yea no doubt. I've been dying over here wanting to build a new kit. I've almost pulled the trigger on several kits in the last 2 weeks but in the end I know I want the B5 so I have actually been able to resist.
Trying to decide if it is even worth it to sell my B4 stuff or just keep it. I have so much into hop ups for the thing I think I will cry when I can only get $150 or whatever for my roller.
Trying to decide if it is even worth it to sell my B4 stuff or just keep it. I have so much into hop ups for the thing I think I will cry when I can only get $150 or whatever for my roller.
#1818
The B4.2 I am driving is actually my old car I gave to my novice 9 year old. I borrowed it back and will be keeping it for him. Don't sell em. Pass it on to a Novice driver friend or keep for a backup buggy.
#1819
Tech Elite
iTrader: (54)
I'm just glad I can take the extra set of Lunsford Ti Turnbuckles I have and put them on the B5.
But like you say it isn't worth much...so maybe I'll just make it a shelf queen...or finish that conversion to the T4.1 chassis.
#1820
I didn't sell my 4.2, and now with the B5 on the doorstep it probably won't be worth selling. I am actually considering just converting it to a C4.2. There will be some growing pains in trying to get the B5 dialed in as well.
#1821
I know what you mean. If I sell my B4.2, somebody is going to get a great deal. Spare a-arms, rear hubs, Avid parts, Acer bearings, Lunsford parts, blue Associated stuff, JConcepts, extra screws, nuts, tools and who knows what else I have forgot.
Since they switched to metric, everything will be different.
Bill
Since they switched to metric, everything will be different.
Bill
#1822
I think shorty in 17.5 is better than saddles. With engine being tame and not not pushing the cars limits gives it time to settle. With mod motor, feels like you would need weight to have it settle quickly and push harder, brake, etc. but 17. a shorty feels best in MM to me. Our club only races 17.5 and 13.5 so no big motors.
And this has been beaten to death on many a thread--but I think the majority of experienced stock buggy drivers will recommend running shorty packs. I've experimented lots with both and I keep ending up with running shorty's.
Also-I agree that having to add any substantial amount of weight is definitely a bandaid for improper setup, wrong tires, etc.
#1823
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
this is why I no long buy option parts. The cars need to work out of the box with OEM parts. For the team edition, I will get the turnbuckles, because imo they are needed, then I will up grade as needed. With full knowledge that option parts do almost nothing to the resale value of the car.
#1824
this is why I no long buy option parts. The cars need to work out of the box with OEM parts. For the team edition, I will get the turnbuckles, because imo they are needed, then I will up grade as needed. With full knowledge that option parts do almost nothing to the resale value of the car.
#1825
Another component to this is adjusting the motor. If a car drops a significant amount of weight due to lipo from NiMh or the change to short packs then the ideal amount of power changes with it. I used to run as much as a 6.5 in 2wd before lipo came in, then 7.5, 8.5, now I run a 10.5 and I can't really use any more power then that effectively.
#1826
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
Well, I dont 100% agree. For medium bite indoor, sure. But outdoors on non sugared dirt, I can disagree. My b4 was way too twitchy with a shorty in 17.5 outdoors. I tried to mess with roll centers and shock packages, but I could never lay down power without the rear breaking loose. The car always felt better with a full pack and was easier to drive. The downside was some layouts would have jumps that were an issue. So I decided to split the difference. I ran a shorty and added wight in the tray a little at a time until the car calmed down. I was around 260 grams with the shorty and lead. When I ran indoors, I always ran the shorty with only 1/4oz in the rear triangles and the ballast. My tlr22 was the same way. even though the base car weighed a lot more than the b4, it also felt better with a fill pack than a shorty. In fact, my current car has a shorty in it and I am not really liking it. It feels better with a full pack. Again, indoor I ran a shorty and it was great. Anyone that ran sct 4x4 outdoors on loamy tracks will also confirm that light trucks just could not bet the power down. It was one of the reasons the sc10 4x4 sucked outdoors and owners when to the alum chassis and added a bunch of weight.
#1828
Ya I can care less about CF battery tie downs. It does nothing. I have a Lunsford kit ready to go for my B5 and as far as immediate mods go, that will be it. I will replace rear hexes and some other items as they wear overtime.
#1829
Tech Elite
On the wiggly SC10, the Yaiba and Avid parts and in particular the Vision cf steering rack improved the truck a lot - but as you said, it is off the track where it really excels!
#1830
this is why I no long buy option parts. The cars need to work out of the box with OEM parts. For the team edition, I will get the turnbuckles, because imo they are needed, then I will up grade as needed. With full knowledge that option parts do almost nothing to the resale value of the car.