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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 01-29-2015, 10:16 AM
  #17746  
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Originally Posted by racer1812
All good CrazyKitty I looked at the CF plates (went with the milled AE) when putting my car together for this last weekend but had worries about heat since the motor I ran wasn't mine (thanks Cpt.America) In the end heat wouldn't have been an issue. That custom Fantom mill took everything I threw at it and never temped over 140

On a side note. I'm glad I'm not stock racing very much, locally or otherwise. Because I found out first hand that the whole battery "juicing" game is no joke, legal or not it makes a difference.
yeah, that battery crap matters. Which fantom motor did you run?
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Old 01-29-2015, 10:17 AM
  #17747  
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Originally Posted by vito
I did per order a 5 t but I got a yeti xl kit now ill get one for my birth day in may
I would rather have the Yeti XL those look like they're a blast to play with!

And ST is dead by me...A 3rd class is too much work on a club night anyway, IMO.
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Old 01-29-2015, 10:19 AM
  #17748  
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Originally Posted by racer1812
I would rather have the Yeti XL those look like they're a blast to play with!

And ST is dead by me...A 3rd class is too much work on a club night anyway, IMO.
I looking a a losi 1/8 buggy e kit the 8 .30 kit
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Old 01-29-2015, 10:27 AM
  #17749  
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Couple questions...

First of all now that you can't get the 4600 SMC packs what are the best stock battery's for the money? Orion 4500's? Right now I am running some 4100 Reedy's and I love them but I bought them used (were only a couple weeks old or so) and I've had them for prob 4 months and while they are prob the best battery's on the market they are just to damn expensive so I am thinking about picking up another fresh battery and use the Reedys as practice packs.

Second for those running the D4 SS (1S) what have you found gearing and timing wise to be its sweet spot. I am running 69/32 and 50*s of timing (while 58* was way faster it got to hot) but I have found this motor to be strange and takes a diff gearing and timing combination.

Thanks!
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Old 01-29-2015, 10:32 AM
  #17750  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
yeah, that battery crap matters. Which fantom motor did you run?
Killshot based Apex2

Cpt.A pulled it from his TC, so I'm sure it was thrashed hard before he sent it to me j/k. It honestly wasn't far off from the newer short stack based motors.

The battery game in the AZ area is a must for stock, unfortunately.
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Old 01-29-2015, 10:33 AM
  #17751  
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Has anyone tried the Schelle D arm mount? It looks interesting but says something about possibly requiring a different hinge pin? Or is that only for pulling hinge pins out the rear?

http://www.amain.com/schelle-racing-...27097?v=424208
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Old 01-29-2015, 10:35 AM
  #17752  
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Originally Posted by dbowen
Couple questions...

First of all now that you can't get the 4600 SMC packs what are the best stock battery's for the money? Orion 4500's? Right now I am running some 4100 Reedy's and I love them but I bought them used (were only a couple weeks old or so) and I've had them for prob 4 months and while they are prob the best battery's on the market they are just to damn expensive so I am thinking about picking up another fresh battery and use the Reedys as practice packs.

Second for those running the D4 SS (1S) what have you found gearing and timing wise to be its sweet spot. I am running 69/32 and 50*s of timing (while 58* was way faster it got to hot) but I have found this motor to be strange and takes a diff gearing and timing combination.

Thanks!
If you can find them the turnigy ultimates are great for the money. The lectron 100c is good too. I get 10 mins from either running mod.
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Old 01-29-2015, 10:35 AM
  #17753  
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http://blog.jconcepts.net/2015/01/jc...g-bell-cranks/
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Old 01-29-2015, 10:35 AM
  #17754  
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Originally Posted by mschumi101
Has anyone tried the Schelle D arm mount? It looks interesting but says something about possibly requiring a different hinge pin? Or is that only for pulling hinge pins out the rear?

http://www.amain.com/schelle-racing-...27097?v=424208
yes
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Old 01-29-2015, 10:38 AM
  #17755  
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Originally Posted by dbowen
Couple questions...

First of all now that you can't get the 4600 SMC packs what are the best stock battery's for the money? Orion 4500's? Right now I am running some 4100 Reedy's and I love them but I bought them used (were only a couple weeks old or so) and I've had them for prob 4 months and while they are prob the best battery's on the market they are just to damn expensive so I am thinking about picking up another fresh battery and use the Reedys as practice packs.

Second for those running the D4 SS (1S) what have you found gearing and timing wise to be its sweet spot. I am running 69/32 and 50*s of timing (while 58* was way faster it got to hot) but I have found this motor to be strange and takes a diff gearing and timing combination.

Thanks!
reedy are not great packs for stock. Chances are, you are just used to worse packs. Drop them on an IR checker and you will see. Keep in mine, Reedy is not into the "stock game". Locals have tested a lot of batteries. The orions were deemed to be turns. Started off great and quickly faded away. So far, the 6+ month old Trinity 100c packs are holding a low IR. But you will pay for that. The turnigy ultimate's are ok for the budget racer and so it the vant stuff from dirt cheap RC.
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Old 01-29-2015, 10:40 AM
  #17756  
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Originally Posted by mschumi101
Has anyone tried the Schelle D arm mount? It looks interesting but says something about possibly requiring a different hinge pin? Or is that only for pulling hinge pins out the rear?

http://www.amain.com/schelle-racing-...27097?v=424208
thats my guess. u can run stock pins but to do the rear pull feature needs their longer pins. if the stock pins didnt work i dont see why they would have the d mount for sale
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Old 01-29-2015, 10:40 AM
  #17757  
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Originally Posted by Jordan Anderson
I thought the 3 gear was only expected to be good for very high grip?
It depends on your car really, it transfers weight differently, I think it transfers less to the rear wheels, so in theory you'd want that on high bite, but it might also be useful if your car was pushy in general.
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Old 01-29-2015, 10:41 AM
  #17758  
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im loving all these bedazzled parts thats coming out right after i built my car with ae stuff
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Old 01-29-2015, 10:42 AM
  #17759  
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Originally Posted by HYPERformance06
the funny thing is... I have never heard of the plastic ones breaking. Personally, I would never buy the alum cranks for this car. I have some on my car, because i bought it used, but i use the plastic ones on the car I built. 1 year on the plastic ones with no issues.
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Old 01-29-2015, 10:46 AM
  #17760  
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my brother has ae alum. and he got spun out by someone not very hard and it bend the ballstud shaft. ive never seen that before. the plastic doesnt feel as responsive to me. ive noticed it on both the b4 and b5. aluminum removed alot of play
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