mjbtaco

iTrader: (5)

put some weight back in for the 3 gear. and just all around cheaper and lasts longer.

here is how i have my car setup with the 3 gear. lipo and all other electronics as far back as possible.

Socket

iTrader: (61)

I think you're confused Chris!

The alloy mount is either +2 or -2. The stock mount is zero. With Cav's setup, he wants you to run it in -2, but with 3mm added. So on the number spectrum, this is +1 over all.

Mason

It will allow more weight transfer front to rear and side to side.

Mason

An update for anyone on high bite clay..

The last couple of events my new set of tire with an old school trick applied didn't seem to be really gripping consistently. Then I was also getting some odd rear end step outs that I could attribute to diff/outdrive issues. I ended up shortening the rear link back to middle hole (stock hubs) and lowering roll center back to 2mm on stock mount.

Then this past weekend we hosted a North Florida reunion race.. basically a race and a cook out which was a nice change of pace. So with a few more people on the track the rubber was going down more and traction was increasing. Either my inserts finally broke in or... who knows. They seemed to be really hooked up on race day. Then back to BBup and 1mm on the inner rear mount. Unfortunately we made some small pipe changes to help fit 8th ebuggies so lap times picked up by a 1s. This also shortened the track a little bit making our small kicker jump something you would consider skying instead of downsiding so I stuck with the 1.7s in the rear in lieu of 3x1.4 tapers. (mostly laziness). I believe Wayne was having similar issues with his rear stepping out and he attributed it to outdrives. Remembering that I didn't have much time to tear down and mess with parts so I lubed up the dogbone pins with some grease and bam.. problem solved temporarily. Car was off the hook the first 2 rounds then the track started drying out in round 3 so times slowed a little bit. Being about a full lap ahead of the field I just rode out with the way it was and the top 3 of us just went out for a fun a-main. I think if I went back to 2mm on the rear inner link I probably would have kept a little more consistent pace. I also ran the battery more forward (for me), 2 small spacers in back. Since we generally do not water on race day anymore I have to account for some dust potentially so the laziness keeps the shortly sideways.

Mason

I will possibly be moving my electronics in line like this while sill keeping some room to move battery forward or back.

triplesix

Hi everyone,

I was thinking about installing an aluminum front hinge pin brace, just for the looks. I have a brass bulkhead, so no durability issues here.
BUT I remember that somewhere I heard about a mayor disadvantage - I just can't remember what exactly it was...

Any ideas??

Jmuck69

iTrader: (14)

Yes, you spent money on something that is not needed.

HYPERformance06

idk both on my b4's and b5 ive noticed if i had the plastic brace and landed on the front wrong i would break the bulkhead. with the aluminum brace i only break the arms.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

A few weeks ago, my daughter broke a plastic pin brace and a bulkhead. I had a bulkhead, but no pin brace. The LHS didnt have the part. So I asked a local JC sponsored driver is he had an alum pin brace he could sell me. He told me that he does not use them. I asked why and his response was, "They bend". He said they would tweak a little bit and make the car worse. Then I started looked around at a few other fast AE factory drivers cars and realized they dont use them either. It is mostly a few JC drivers sporting the alum pin brace, mostly for sales I think. I do not think the pin brace or bulkhead are that fragile. In fact my daughter broke 2 arms this weekend, bend a front hinge pin, but did not break the pin brace or bulkhead.

air8

iTrader: (7)

LOL. My daughter started driving my B5-R this weekend. She has driven some of my RC cars in the past, but never would go on race days.
She was very cautious but still trying to go fast and kept catching pipes, walls, jump faces again and again. She was having a blast but going to have to give extra attention to the buggy's front end now.

sheeldzy

Thanks for the replies.second question is I assume that going with a light chassis means I will need to soften the suspension also?what oils and pistons ,springs would be a good starting point?Im thinking green fr and black rears w 30F27.5R.thanks again.ps running high bite clay.

Mason

One more thing, I would like to announce that I finally broke a part on my car.. of my own doing. We use old suction hose for piping and they have some small corrugations. Well its its fairly hard stuff even though it does bend. I was blasting through Eau Rouge and uh well one too many hits on the axle and it broke the front half of the rear arm. The arm toed out about 30 degrees but was still attached to the car. If it wasn't for the dog bone slipping out of the outdrive I probably would have drove it back around to the pull off. So that's 1 arm, 1 bent shock shaft and dented shock body (very freak accident of car landing on it) in 8? months of racing about 2 times a week. The chassis has a couple of small gashes in it and the front arm has a gash in it near the inner hinge pin. I think this thing needs to be renamed A-10 or Warthog or something along those lines.

If you're breaking this thing, either you're having issues with screws backing out or you're wailing brick mail boxes, steel girders, or running over it with a Caterpillar 797F 400 ton dump truck.

dbowen

iTrader: (7)

So I finally got to run the 3 gear tranny yesterday and I have to say I was extremely impressed. The car rotated around corners better without giving up to much traction to where I was spinning out and I could get up to speed sooo much faster. Also the car has A LOT more on power steering which is something I deff like. I really didn't noticed anything jumping wise which is something I was worried about.

Now I did notice a few times getting on the straight where there was some dust and I would gun it it would get crazy (which is mainly the 3 gear and partly bc I am running a slipper eliminator but I never had that prob with the 4 gear) that did kinda tick me off a few times but once I got the right tires on (new compound MC electrons) my car was unreal! I was so much more consistent with the 3 gear.

I must say IMO the 3 gear is a MUST have for stock guys and a pretty cheap upgrade at that.

Also I want to add that I have not run the 3 gear with the pucks yet. I am going to try it but I have a feeling I will be sticking with the stock bones and outdrives but we shall see.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

lol, my daughter didnt turn...and went into a cinder block wall at a 45 deg angle, lol. Then, she proceed to finish her lap lol. Yes, this car is very durable. On my car, I am running mostly hard parts and those are holding up well...but I dont run into brick walls like my kid, lol.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

wit the pucks and the cut gears, you will notice a bit more acceleration. But you will also lose about 30 grams of weight over the tires. I have been running the pucks, cut gears and all the light weight stuff. I still have traction to spare and I will be trying the 3 gear out this weekend....if my motor plate comes in.