Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
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Tech Champion
iTrader: (73)
Looking for some advice. Been running my B5M and starting to get it dialed. Only think i can get figured out is how to get the car to maintain its corner speed. It seems like i have to slow down more than others to get the car to turn like it should. I'm running stock pistons and springs, with 25 wt oil. i had 30 in it but changed it to 25 and that really helped. Spindle height is still set to middle position. i use the same tires as the fastest guy so tires shouldnt be whats wrong. it feels like the car still pushes alittle in the corner. what would you guys suggest? thanks
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
Tech Master
iTrader: (43)
Put spacers under the ballstud up front (lower the roll center)
Tech Rookie
What's your budget?
It's easy for me to sit back and recommend the Orion R10.1 pro, I have it, it's badass. It's also on the higher end of costs.
I also run the Trinity Certified D4. It too is amazing for speed, but this is also on the higher end of the cost scale. Thankfully, there is the regular D4 or the Maxzilla, which are lower in cost, and offer insane speed for a 17.5.
Servo, there are tons of options. From a high end KO to better value like Spektrum or Savox. I run Savox, and have been happy. I would like to try the protek servos at some point, though.
It's easy for me to sit back and recommend the Orion R10.1 pro, I have it, it's badass. It's also on the higher end of costs.
I also run the Trinity Certified D4. It too is amazing for speed, but this is also on the higher end of the cost scale. Thankfully, there is the regular D4 or the Maxzilla, which are lower in cost, and offer insane speed for a 17.5.
Servo, there are tons of options. From a high end KO to better value like Spektrum or Savox. I run Savox, and have been happy. I would like to try the protek servos at some point, though.
Motor wise I like the look of Trinity D4 and the Schuurspeed spec V3...
Also which of the Savox Servos suits/fits best? The 1258 TG?
So many decisions .....
Tech Adept
iTrader: (11)
I need a couple 10mm ball studs, would any 10mm metric ball stud work?
Also, what is your preferred method for building ball diffs? Usually I dump all the balls and rings out and clean them with break cleaner, but I have heard of people dumping the balls right into the diff gear without cleaning them or touching them anywhere else other than the bag. Good idea? Or should I just stick to cleaning them? I have never had a problem with my diffs, usually last a long time, just thought not cleaning them would be more efficient and possibly better for the balls.
Also, what is your preferred method for building ball diffs? Usually I dump all the balls and rings out and clean them with break cleaner, but I have heard of people dumping the balls right into the diff gear without cleaning them or touching them anywhere else other than the bag. Good idea? Or should I just stick to cleaning them? I have never had a problem with my diffs, usually last a long time, just thought not cleaning them would be more efficient and possibly better for the balls.
I don't bother cleaning them.
Tech Adept
iTrader: (15)
I think a guy should clean his balls.
I agree, dirty balls are bad.
I've got some tires that vary in diameter. Just by changing tires it affects ride height by 2mm. What do you guys feel is more important. Keeping the ride height the same so CG is not changed or leaving the shock collars in the same position so the arm angles stay the same? Thoughts and theories please...
anyone using the gold front brace for weight? wondering if its worth it to buy? thanks
Tech Rookie
New to the hobby and looking to solicit advice from the experienced folks here. I'm not interested in hop ups - I know I need to learn to drive, make laps, don't crash, and get consistent. I've been to one test day so I have a lot more time of making no changes (except for Ti turnbuckles because I bent one). It occurs to me that there are a number of places to tweak. The esc settings (Tekin RS Gen2 brake drag and many others along with a matching 17.5), radio (Futaba 4PLS), front suspension, rear suspension, diff, battery position, and probably more that I'm not thinking about. What makes the most sense to methodically go through the variables to optimize the package?
Budget doesnt really matter as long as the benefit out ways the cost. Running in stock class would I get a real benefit out of getting the Orion R10.1 pro compared to the Orion R10 stock Spec?
Motor wise I like the look of Trinity D4 and the Schuurspeed spec V3...
Also which of the Savox Servos suits/fits best? The 1258 TG?
So many decisions .....
Motor wise I like the look of Trinity D4 and the Schuurspeed spec V3...
Also which of the Savox Servos suits/fits best? The 1258 TG?
So many decisions .....
Motor wise, if you want the best of the best - The certified motor is the end-all. Yes, other motors can be quick, but you're going luck of the draw and hope it's fast.
The short stack certified motors from trinity just came available.
I like savox, they work great. The 1257TG or 1258TG are both excellent choices.
New to the hobby and looking to solicit advice from the experienced folks here. I'm not interested in hop ups - I know I need to learn to drive, make laps, don't crash, and get consistent. I've been to one test day so I have a lot more time of making no changes (except for Ti turnbuckles because I bent one). It occurs to me that there are a number of places to tweak. The esc settings (Tekin RS Gen2 brake drag and many others along with a matching 17.5), radio (Futaba 4PLS), front suspension, rear suspension, diff, battery position, and probably more that I'm not thinking about. What makes the most sense to methodically go through the variables to optimize the package?
Power and motor feel - ESC and controller
Tech Rookie
Fair question. Overall to get faster. Eventually I will start racing in the weekly series, but for now it's just an after-work stress relief. Indoor track with a transponder, so I get all lap times in a relatively consistent environment (track is rubber mat, so no dirt variation). I can make this a very data driven process. Where there are lap times, there is a will to go faster. I'm interested in perspective that for a newbie, what would make the most sense to start the tuning and optimization process? I want to make it easier to drive faster and more consistent.
Glue guy....do you happen to race (or run laps) at Larry's RC? Just wondering since you mentioned the rubber mat surface.