Originally Posted by chef88

K I'm a noob, when comes to off road
Have the same issue as Graham11.
RM = rear motor car front arms?
Rear hubs forward = more rear traction.
please explain the 4mm of trailing.
Thanks

Originally Posted by Wildcat1971

tailing refers to the trailing axle on the front. the kit comes with +2,3,4. +4= 4mm back from the pin. so front wheels are moved close to the rear wheels kind of. the more trailing, the more "forgiving" the steering is. please refer to the tuning in the manual. Yes, RM refers to the ream motor arms. most everyone uses the RM arms front and rear. "If" AE comes out with a FT car, I expect it to come with Rm arms, just because that is what everyone does. yes, hubs forward moves more weight over the rear axles, thus more traction.

Originally Posted by DIRT DIGGER

wondering if anyone has any good setups? im running the box setup but not having much luck car is loose and pushing real bad. i run on a small indoor tight hard packed dirt track using super soft electrons. any help please.

Originally Posted by chef88

Had to deal with that also.
Three things that help me out........
Make sure your arms front & back are free.
Be sure to break in those electrons.
Stay in the racing line, once out take it easy for a half lap otherwise your car will be unpredictable.

Originally Posted by 303slowdown

This is going to sound really stupid but how do you break in tires ?
thanks

Originally Posted by chef88

I found that the super softs work better on hard dirt track with about three five minute runs on them before you race.

Originally Posted by steelers82

wondering if anyone has a step by step for drilling the plastic wing mounts to fasten the wing with screws instead of the standard body clips? seen it done on someones buggy and it looks super clean, plus I put the proline wing on my buggy and its a lot more thick so the associated wing shim doesn't fit anymore

Originally Posted by Mason

Here's a medium-high bite stock setup for you indoor guys to try. It's all stock oem kit pieces with the addition of the aluminum C & D for the extra tunability. Normally I try not to run stock but some days you gotta measure up the young'ns. This setup netted me an 18.3 this past weekend which I believe is about the fastest single lap on our current layout but also probably best overall average as well. I'm still playing with the front end to improve consistency but I figured somebody might benefit from it.

Front:
camber -1, toe 0
flat arms, flat tower
kick up 25, caster 5
3mm trailing, no bump steer spacers
axle middle, caster block centered
ackerman roughly 2mm (scrounged around various washers for this )
Shock Mount 2B, links 1B with 0.75 mm spacer (black plastic kit washer)
ride height arms level
Shocks -
3x 1.4 taper (rebound) drowned in 30 wt ASC on White Springs
all other shock parts/measurements are stock.

Rear:
Camber -1
Ride Height arms level
Links on 2B up with 1mm on inner link mount
Shocks mounted 2B
arm mount - 2.5 x 2 deg antisquat and 0.5 hub inserts

Shocks -
1.7 pistons drowned in 32.5 ASC with White Springs
I run an extra limiter and back out the eyelet 1 turn to get back to stock travel.

Tires are JConcepts Smoothies w/ included dirt tech foams rolling on Bullet rims. Lately spreading some WD40 thinly on the tires then following with SXT 3.0.
Battery is Reedy 4100 shorty all the way back in the tray.
Tekin RS with Reedy Mach 2 running 31 deg timing with 35 pinion and 72 spur. Of course you'll need to adjust for your layout.
Track is 118x46, medium speed with one straight of 80something feet into a long sweeper. Both speedo and motor coming off at 125-130f.
Ball diff at standard settings and stock clutch.

video of the track can be seen - https://www.youtube.com/user/NewRedHobbies/ and also at this unfortunately nasty link - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4m...mwQ0mgw/videos

I will probably try bumping the front oil up to 32.5 looking for a little less dive and might even convert the rear to 3 x 1.4s for shtis and giggles.

Let me know if I've forgotten any other important bits of info.

ps.. no I have not scaled it in any fashion but according to just about everyone on here this thing is a pig!
good luck.

Originally Posted by Lone Star

Has anyone figured out how to put the mm4gear gearbox in the RM chassis?