Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread >

Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree137Likes

Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

    Hide Wikipost
Old 04-22-2024, 12:09 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: RCBuddha
Quick link to the front page

First Page

Print Wikipost

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-25-2014, 07:15 PM
  #16726  
Tech Regular
 
BLKXJ96's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Michigan
Posts: 252
Default

I agree with the above Ti turnbuckles are about the only out of the box upgrade you need. The rest of the car is really good, on both my B5 and B5m i have broke one front shock tower and one front bulkhead. I have had both cars sense they came out.
BLKXJ96 is offline  
Old 12-25-2014, 07:24 PM
  #16727  
Tech Master
iTrader: (21)
 
mdowney's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 1,562
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by thecman26
Only NEED TO HAVE thinngs are the rear camber mount is very fragile, when it breaks replace with aluminum, AE or Schelle are great pieces.
People have been breaking the plastic rear camber link on buggies for years and the solution is always the same: put grub screws in the empty, unused holes. This strengthens the block and helps prevent breakage. I haven't broken one since I started doing this years ago on my old RB5.

And if you want to be extra cautious (I never bother with this), you can use a LONG ballstud that sticks out below the camber mount and pop a small nut on it.
mdowney is offline  
Old 12-25-2014, 07:26 PM
  #16728  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (15)
 
billdogg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Rockford, IL
Posts: 209
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

*Deleted, problem solved.

Last edited by billdogg; 12-25-2014 at 08:48 PM.
billdogg is offline  
Old 12-25-2014, 08:07 PM
  #16729  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (33)
 
slashdad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: SE Melbourne
Posts: 733
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

I've tried to install the brass arm c mount (91523) and cannot for the life of me work out how it comes together with the rear tower on the rear of the chassis. What am I missing?
Can one of you fine gents post a picture or explain what I need to do please?
slashdad is offline  
Old 12-25-2014, 08:14 PM
  #16730  
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
 
Wildcat1971's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Arizona
Posts: 17,388
Trader Rating: 84 (100%+)
Default

C goes forward. Not near the tower
Wildcat1971 is offline  
Old 12-25-2014, 08:33 PM
  #16731  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Iowa
Posts: 203
Default

I've got pucks and cb's cut gears and everything installed with no issues...
nordfink is offline  
Old 12-25-2014, 09:54 PM
  #16732  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (33)
 
slashdad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: SE Melbourne
Posts: 733
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
C goes forward. Not near the tower
Thank you. Rookie error. Think I'm still hungover.
slashdad is offline  
Old 12-25-2014, 10:02 PM
  #16733  
Tech Master
iTrader: (32)
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: USA
Posts: 1,321
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Default

Ha ha priceless!
Skeeter36 is offline  
Old 12-26-2014, 07:35 AM
  #16734  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: so cal
Posts: 203
Default

it looks like I have bump out when I compress my front end. should I not worry about it or could I lower my front axle by 1mm or cut it down where the ball end attaches to go -1 on bump steer
2dialed is offline  
Old 12-26-2014, 07:43 AM
  #16735  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (7)
 
dbowen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 342
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by 2dialed
it looks like I have bump out when I compress my front end. should I not worry about it or could I lower my front axle by 1mm or cut it down where the ball end attaches to go -1 on bump steer
Yes a lot of guys are doing cutting down where the ballstud goes since Cav put -1 bump steer on his setup sheet
dbowen is offline  
Old 12-26-2014, 09:00 AM
  #16736  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: so cal
Posts: 203
Default

the cav way seems like the worst way. lowering the axle or raising the steering rack to me could give the same effect without weakening the steering block. has any pics been posted of this mod
2dialed is offline  
Old 12-26-2014, 09:32 AM
  #16737  
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (9)
 
Zaxbys's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: southern minnesooota
Posts: 75
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by 2dialed
the cav way seems like the worst way. lowering the axle or raising the steering rack to me could give the same effect without weakening the steering block. has any pics been posted of this mod
Moving the axle will change the geometry in other, unwanted, ways. Like ride height when the arms are level.
Zaxbys is offline  
Old 12-26-2014, 09:36 AM
  #16738  
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (9)
 
Zaxbys's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: southern minnesooota
Posts: 75
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by DIRT DIGGER
i was just wondering if the gear diff is alot better than the stock diff? just wondering if i should put the gear diff in? would this work good on a med bite track that i race on? thanks
The ball diff will always be more consistent, provided it's broken in and tight enough (not barking). As a gear diff is used, the diff oil heats up and becomes thinner.
Zaxbys is offline  
Old 12-26-2014, 10:33 AM
  #16739  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
 
Gpeters66's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Alton. IL
Posts: 352
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Razathorn
Cav's 2014 top gun setup with one thin pad in rear. The car was so good compared to what it had been, that I really didn't feel like I could change anything. I didn't know what to do with myself. It was just so good compared to what it had been that I felt like changing anything was just dumb. I'll have to see how it does racing.

I was running M4 electrons all around with the stock closed cell foams.
When I built my B5M I used this set up and followed it to a "T"...or so I thought. I just realized that he uses the B5 rear arms also. I ordered some today. Will I notice a big difference and is there a certain way that I need to install them?
Gpeters66 is offline  
Old 12-26-2014, 10:38 AM
  #16740  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (7)
 
dbowen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 342
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Gpeters66
When I built my B5M I used this set up and followed it to a "T"...or so I thought. I just realized that he uses the B5 rear arms also. I ordered some today. Will I notice a big difference and is there a certain way that I need to install them?
Yes you will notice more rear traction bc the arms push your rear hubs forward about 2mm from stock. Also you want to flip them and run the right one on the left side and vise versa
dbowen is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.