DIRT DIGGER

iTrader: (4)

i was just wondering if the gear diff is alot better than the stock diff? just wondering if i should put the gear diff in? would this work good on a med bite track that i race on? thanks

vito

have a marry Christmas
I going to run mod reedy 8.5 stock is to slow in the street

motoman811

iTrader: (15)

Ive been out of rc for awhile now and just grabbed a b5m before they went out of stock.. Are you guys running the stiff servo saver spring? What other must have parts should I be aware of?

fastharryDOTcom

so much for dead on, LOL...

2dialed

huh? no spring in the steering assembly. there is no servo saver

"Smiley"

iTrader: (171)

I'm picking up a B5M tomorrow, Any tips or tricks I need to know about? Thanks in advance.

micrors4guy

iTrader: (50)

Avid ti ball studs, aurora bearings, c&d plates, al top shaft, evo slipper, al bellcranks and ti turnbuckles and you will be set.

A few of those items should be easy to get for you.

MikeXray

iTrader: (73)

No there is no servo saver, no need.

napoleon1981

iTrader: (11)

May I ask what setup it was and what tires you were on?

Razathorn

iTrader: (2)

Cav's 2014 top gun setup with one thin pad in rear. The car was so good compared to what it had been, that I really didn't feel like I could change anything. I didn't know what to do with myself. It was just so good compared to what it had been that I felt like changing anything was just dumb. I'll have to see how it does racing.

I was running M4 electrons all around with the stock closed cell foams.

Zaxbys

iTrader: (9)

The ballcups will probably be really tight, check the first post for some fixes. I'd suggest some titanium camber links, Front shock tower and arms for a B5, possibly the rear arms, and not much else (maybe an aluminum rear camber mount, but I'm still running the stock plastic one myself)

thebombster

iTrader: (3)

aluminum rear ballstud mount the plastic one will break

thecman26

iTrader: (112)

Start with the 1st post on this thread, do the "squeeze method" with pliers as the stock ball cups will be stiff and bind up.

Just build it and run it!
Box stock set-up is a good start.
Upgrade as your budget allows!

Only NEED TO HAVE thinngs are the rear camber mount is very fragile, when it breaks replace with aluminum, AE or Schelle are great pieces. The stock front wheel bearings and gearbox bearings are rough, Schelle bearings are very sweet there too (gearbox, get the oiled ceramics, they are awesome)!
Otherwise you sholud be good to go!

Nice bling parts are Aluminum C+D mounts are nice, Titanium turnbuckles are nice, aluminum top shaft is nice, Avid/Schelle slipper is a very good upgrade as well!

Theres other upgrades but not totally necessary unless your gonna try to win a lightest buggy contest!

Hope that helps!

thebombster

iTrader: (3)

the front bearing wear because the way they are designed, it doesnt matter what bearing you put its gonna get destroyed, the upgraded axels and a shim can help

Razathorn

iTrader: (2)

Honestly, IMHO, the only things that needs upgraded on the b5m out of the box are the turnbuckles (the steel ones will bend and snap very easily and are the weakest link in every part of the suspension) and the rear hub ball stud will back out unless you practically glue the ball stud in, so use red loctite, and a lot of it, or do what I did and get a washer and locknut and use longer ballstuds and washer on the ball side and nut on the aluminum side and lock that sob in there. I even like the stock slipper.

Wayne