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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 04-22-2024, 12:09 PM   -   Wikipost
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Old 12-04-2014, 07:05 AM
  #16186  
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Originally Posted by Socket
I would hold off on cut gears, the 3 gear transmission is right around the corner.
Why wouldn't I just be able to swap them out to the 3 gear tranny case?
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Old 12-04-2014, 07:37 AM
  #16187  
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Originally Posted by skoalisbad4me
Why wouldn't I just be able to swap them out to the 3 gear tranny case?
Exactly, 3 gear doesn't eliminate the benefit..
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Old 12-04-2014, 09:10 AM
  #16188  
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Originally Posted by Socket
I would hold off on cut gears, the 3 gear transmission is right around the corner.
Originally Posted by MikeXray
Exactly, 3 gear doesn't eliminate the benefit..
And is not synonymous with running cut gears. The 3gear tranns is going to swap the motor position as well, which will drastically change how the car drives in other ways. It MAY not be what you want.

In my opinion.. cut gears aren't necessary in the slightest.
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Old 12-04-2014, 09:15 AM
  #16189  
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Is the lightened top shaft a common upgrade only for stock? I never see it listed on setup sheets. Thinking maybe the extra weight in the rear is a good thing for mod.
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Old 12-04-2014, 09:19 AM
  #16190  
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Originally Posted by Chris Gierse
Is the lightened top shaft a common upgrade only for stock? I never see it listed on setup sheets. Thinking maybe the extra weight in the rear is a good thing for mod.
Tuning the weight of the car in general is maybe the biggest change you can make in how your car drives, second to only your tires. Mod and Stock will/can benefit from having a car who's weight is where it needs to be to perform best on the track. Sometimes that is lighter... sometimes that is heavier.

I would say running the lightened top shaft in particular, is less about reducing weigh of the car, and more about reducing rotating mass... which certainly benefits spec racing more.
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Old 12-04-2014, 11:26 AM
  #16191  
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on the Lunsford upper shock mounts how do you trim the stock spacer to fit and where?
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Old 12-04-2014, 11:52 AM
  #16192  
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I didn't trim the spacers. When you tighten the shock it will force the plastic guide over the lunsford piece. No binding and you're good to go
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Old 12-04-2014, 12:10 PM
  #16193  
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hey guys i am having a little problem with my car. i built it a few weeks ago, polished all ball studs and all the arms move freely as they should. i have ran 3 packs through the car. i noticed my front shocks were not returning all the way so i removed them and changed the fluid and made sure there was no air in there. I also made sure the shaft moved freely from all the way compressed to all the way extended. and it does move in and out freely with no binding and sticking. now i bolted the shocks back onto the car, and they still stick. the return almost all the way out but then stick. has anyone else had this problem and what should i do? thanks
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Old 12-04-2014, 12:17 PM
  #16194  
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Originally Posted by bbrace3m
hey guys i am having a little problem with my car. i built it a few weeks ago, polished all ball studs and all the arms move freely as they should. i have ran 3 packs through the car. i noticed my front shocks were not returning all the way so i removed them and changed the fluid and made sure there was no air in there. I also made sure the shaft moved freely from all the way compressed to all the way extended. and it does move in and out freely with no binding and sticking. now i bolted the shocks back onto the car, and they still stick. the return almost all the way out but then stick. has anyone else had this problem and what should i do? thanks
Just an idea, what spring cup are you using ?
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Old 12-04-2014, 12:19 PM
  #16195  
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Originally Posted by shannow
Just an idea, what spring cup are you using ?
i honestly could not tell you. i noticed there are different ones. which ones should i be using? this is the first kit i have built, first time buying something brand new lol
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Old 12-04-2014, 12:22 PM
  #16196  
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Originally Posted by bbrace3m
i honestly could not tell you. i noticed there are different ones. which ones should i be using? this is the first kit i have built, first time buying something brand new lol
I know that when I tried the 0mm ones (the shorstest) it bound and the cup touched the arms before full extension of the shocks.
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Old 12-04-2014, 12:24 PM
  #16197  
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Originally Posted by shannow
I know that when I tried the 0mm ones (the shorstest) it bound and the cup touched the arms before full extension of the shocks.
i believe the ones i am using are the shortest ones, i will put a different cup on and see if it helps. thank you!
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Old 12-04-2014, 12:41 PM
  #16198  
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Use the "middle" height cups.
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Old 12-04-2014, 12:50 PM
  #16199  
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Originally Posted by Boostinswifty38
So, moved the esc behind the battery and shortened some wires. Buggy tips on at 1531 grams. Still have more to remove, like screws, Turnbuckles, slipper, etc. Why is minimum weight 1499? I don't get it. Why not call it even 1500?
I think because the number was converted from pounds.

Originally Posted by McCroskey
Silly question. When figuring the weight of the car, is it with or without tires on?
Yes with tires, race ready.
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Old 12-04-2014, 12:53 PM
  #16200  
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Originally Posted by Sean Cochran
I think because the number was converted from pounds.
1499 grams = 3.304729 pounds.
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