scythe23

iTrader: (4)

My idler gears are cut and I don't use spacers. What spacers are your referring to? Just curious

rc_speed

iTrader: (13)

Hello,
This question has probably been asked before, but I don't want to look through 237 pages to find the answer.
I currently have a Losi 22. My 2 sons have stated that they have an interest and want to start running in the novice class. I think a buggy is the best option for them because it is the class that at levels other than novice, race every week.
I am willing to switch brands so that we can all 3 have the same vehicle (less parts that I have to carry around.
I already have electronics to put in their cars.

Here are my questions:
1) What, if any, parts should be put on a new kit version of a B5M to make it more durable and handle better for novice drivers running 17.5 motors?
2) What needs to be done to the OOB (out of the box) B5M to make it drive well for a more seasoned driver? I have a friend that has a B5M and he is using the stock rear arms turned around and facing forward and also using B4 arms. Is this the correct setup? Will the B5M front arms work well? What other upgrades will make the OOB car run well and fast?

Any other suggestions or setups tips?
Is there a starting setup sheet that will get me to a good place with a car that turns well and is stable (ie not loose on the rear wheels, but does not push)?

thanks,
tim

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

Tim,

For the novice racers, run their B5m's bone stock, right out of the box. The car will be a little on the heavy side, which will slow them, tame them, and make them easier to drive. No upgrades needed in the slightest. If you want to tame the steering a little bit, and shift the weight slightly more to the rear, run the B5r front arms and front tower, and rear arms (these are put on the opposite side. L on R, and R on L).

For the more experienced racer, I would follow the same basic plan, however if you are good at driving a faster more twitchy car, you can spend some extra cash lightening up the car with any or all of the following:

.Pucks
.Ti turnbuckles
.Ti ballstuds
.Ti screw kid
.Lightweight top shaft
.Slipper Eliminator
.Cut gears
.Milled motor plate
.Carbon chassis

Remember, a lighter car isn't necessarily a faster car. You balance speed against traction and ease of driving.

I would run them all bone stock at first, and slowly figure out how much weight you want to shave (if any) and then start to incorporate lighter parts as needed.

Micah123

iTrader: (1)

Kit is good to go right out of the box for your boys. No need to do anything until they graduate out of the novice class. If you are running stock 17.5, I would get pucks, slipper eliminator, aluminum top shaft to start. You can also get rear b5 arms and reverse them. Also straight front arms with matching tower when you get the $.

racer1812

iTrader: (31)

rc speed, are you yourself looking to run stock or mod with YOUR B5M?

shannow

iTrader: (1)

Hi all,

I have a little setup question :

I'm running a B5m with shorty on super stock (13.5t with lots of timing) basically completely stock setup.
I have the same tires as everybody on the club (schum mini pin + cut stagger both yellow compound ) running on good grip carpet.
My issue is that the car tends do fight me on mid corners.
I can't zip around as fast as the others. It lets go sideways brutally but can be controlled back again almost instantly up to 2-3times in one corner.
From a viewer it looks like I'm fighting the car and that it's got a sort of side jumping(brutal sliding) ability.
Looking at many guys setup on similar track they have put stiffer spring all around but especially at the front (no one owns the b5m at my club apart from one guy that didn't show up for a while).
Would that help ? I also have a gear diff set at 2000 which I refill on a very regular basis.

Thank in advance

Jonathan

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

Mine did the same thing until I dropped a little weight and ran my electronics inline. I did both at the same time, so I cant really say which change was the best. Probably the inline electronics.

rc_speed

iTrader: (13)

17.5 stock

racer1812

iTrader: (31)

Long story short..build the car and drive it first. THEN decide what aftermarket parts will help you the most.

I'm not even going to suggest the RM rear arms, Front arms and tower to start. Because even those are my opinion.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

I have tried the MM arms several times. I just dont like them. they make the steering feel non linear and unpredictable. They do give more initial steering, but it feels weird to me. I found removing ackerman washers had a better feel and increased turn in using the RM arms. But yeah, you need to try them to see if you like them. I did not. The car comes with them, so might as well try them. The car does seem to land jumps a little better with the MM front arms.

3D-Seth

iTrader: (36)

I don't have much experience with this car on carpet, but I do with other cars.

Have you tried going up in weight in diff oil? Like 4K or something? If I recall correctly, I was running 5K the couple nights I did carpet racing.

Also, stiffer springs front and rear would definitely help smooth things out.

What shock oil and pistons are you running? The other thing I found I had to do was go up in oil weight in comparison to dirt racing. Think I ran 42.5wt in the front and 37.5 in the rear. Depends on the track though.

Where is your ride height? I normally run 24mm front/rear on dirt, but on carpet I was dropping to 18mm or even lower depending on the jumps.

Also could try running longer camber links, generally helps reduce chassis roll on higher bite surfaces.

Hopefully this gives you a few things to try!

Seth

Socket

iTrader: (61)

I keep looking at your pics, and my newly assembled car, and don't see it. Mine doesn't look at all like there's contact.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

Slight rub yeah.

Vinny Cancilla

iTrader: (2)

[QUOTE=3D-Seth;13696721]I don't have much experience with this car on carpet, but I do with other cars.

Have you tried going up in weight in diff oil? Like 4K or something? If I recall correctly, I was running 5K the couple nights I did carpet racing.

Also, stiffer springs front and rear would definitely help smooth things out.

What shock oil and pistons are you running? The other thing I found I had to do was go up in oil weight in comparison to dirt racing. Think I ran 42.5wt in the front and 37.5 in the rear. Depends on the track though.

Where is your ride height? I normally run 24mm front/rear on dirt, but on carpet I was dropping to 18mm or even lower depending on the jumps.

Also could try running longer camber links, generally helps reduce chassis roll on higher bite surfaces.

Longer camber links will increase chassis roll.

intimdator10

I just bought a B5M and I am currently building it. I am looking for some gearing help. I will be running a LRP Flow esc and a LRP 13.5 motor.