isarctard

iTrader: (99)

I have run my b5m a total of 4 times, front bearings feel very gritty and do not spin freely when put together in the steering block.

Is this a bearing issue or some type tolerance issue?

DLE RC

Have you cleaned the bearings? Might just have to replace them. I purchased a revolution kit from Avid so that I can replace the factory bearings as they wear out. $22 shipped to my door.

DLE RC

What's the predecessor to the square fuzzie? Is it the holeshot?

Mason

I believe you are correct. hole shot, square fuzzy, evil twin.

MikeXray

iTrader: (73)

You're not alone on this, the bearings do wear out faster than normal for some reason. I though gluing the inserts into the C-hub would fix it, but they still get gritty fast.

RA99GT

I think there was a fuzzie, flat fuzzie, then square fuzzie.

Jmuck69

iTrader: (14)

It has to do with the crush sleeve in between the two bearings in the hub being out of tolerance. Solution is place (1) .20mm shim along with crush tube. This will give the additional support the bearings need when you tighten down the wheel.

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

Strange. I have been running my B5m probably 10 packs a week for the last 3 or 4 months.... bearings feel as free today as they did the day I built the kit. Swap them out for a $1 protek bearing. Might have been a bad batch or something.

dbowen

iTrader: (7)

My opinion is that some of the inserts are just off from being perfectly straight by a little bit and it puts stress on the inside of the bearing also if you are running the axles and front hexes I have noticed if you tighten your front wheels to much it pushes the hex up against the bearing and it feels gritty and has a lot of drag. I am actually going back to the stock axles bc I am tired of pulling the hexes away from the bearings.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

didnt they make a running change to "fix" the crush tube tolerance? I measured my crush tubes at 2.08mm.

deftones.jt@gma

iTrader: (26)

Wildcat will you please explain why you find the "inline" setup harder to drive?

MikeXray

iTrader: (73)

I just got some replacements, I'll measure both and see..

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

For a while I have been running MM locally and thought i would try out RM out for nostalgia. Well, I didnt like it for a few reasons. This weekend my kid and I were practicing and she was driving her tlr22 RM. I have been trying for a while to get her to switch to AE. I saw one of the other kids practicing and she look really good driving her new MM B5. So I called my daughter to the stand and asked her what her lap times have been. She said her fast was a 30, the rest of her laps were anywhere from 34-38. I told her to try my B5M. She didnt want to and complained that my M12 was too heavy. But she did it anyway, because "I said so" After a few laps of getting used to the car she was nocking down 5+ 25 to 26 second laps. I was coaching her on what line to drive and giving her a few pointers. Her fastest was a 25 flat. I was really impressed as she looked much better. After her 22 was charged up, I had her go back out and try again to do some 25 second laps. She came back and said her fastest was a 29 second lap. So I figured the first pack she ran with my car was beginners luck. So I sent her back out to drive my car again, while I marshaled for her. She was crashing a bunch and driving terrible lines, thus running 32 second laps. Then she started to reel the car in, and I about shit myself when I heard the lap timer call out 23.4. I thought at first it was another car, but no other cars were near the loop. Then I heard a bunch of 24's and 25's. Overall, she just looked better withe MM car. She jumped flatter, cornered smoother and drove better lines. After that, she was begging me for a B5M. For perspective, my best was a 21.4 on this layout that day. So her 23 second lap had me all smiles. This layout is very easy to lose time on. Even without crashing you can easily lose 2-3 seconds my missing your marks by a little bit.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

It is just more "twitchy"/more responsive. I dont like cars that are overly sensitive to steering inputs. So for me anyway, the inline battery configuration is a no go. tHE SHORTY SIDEWAYS AND THE ELECTRONICS INLINE HAVE GIVEN ME MY BEST RESULTS. fing caps lock. owned by the keyboard.

imajerky

iTrader: (16)

I run esc back under the brace, battery forward. I found that running inline this way kept the chassis flat in corners, was very predictable in corners and had fantastic steering. I run on a med/high traction indoor track, traction is fairly consistent. Just kind of depends on the night. I felt the inline set up kept the body from rolling excessively, I used the analogy of the car "stepping in a hole" previously. Inline keeps the car flat in air also, jumps/lands with ease.

As far as ways to drop some weight, I have used the following

Things that improve function and drop weight.
Ti turnbuckles
Slipper eliminator. I use ceramic diff balls, no drop in how long the diff has lasted so far without a slipper (17.5 is easier on internals)
MIP pucks system
Alum topshaft

Things that are cool and drop weight
Lunsford Ti screws. Spendy but amazing quality. Look dope.
Lunsford Ti Axles. Again, amazing quality.

Things most people do not think about that lose grams
Amount of paint on your body. If you are looking for bare minimum, mind how much paint you apply when painting
Chassis protector weighs approx. 14 grams

My car weighs in at 1520-30g depending on tires used. I run a cheap HK 17.5 and cheap HK batteries, car is fast. No problems with being outmotored, car is light.