137LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
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11-24-2014, 08:32 PM
Im not gonna say it will give you so much steering its gonna be crazy, but i did notice a feel in steering switching back and forth. I personally like the MM rear arms. There are other things you can do to gain forward bite if you need it but the kit arms I feel give the car a more predictable feel, just my experience.
11-24-2014, 08:44 PM
B5M
The car is fantastic right out of the box! I run on a loose clay track and the only thing I noticed right off hand was it needed a little more on power steering. Just some camber link adjustments took care of that though. I would highly recommend the B5M and you can get it at Amain.com on sale this week for Black Friday. Also check out my review and others of it on Amain.
11-24-2014, 09:04 PM
I am curious what your thoughts may be on the following:
My B5M is almost perfect. We run on a medium to lower traction surface indoors. The B5M has been fantastic taking the win last weekend. I would like to obtain just a little more rear grip or forward bite upon corner exit. The car tends to step out a little bit right when you pick up the throttle on exit. Keep in mind again car is really good and this can be managed with throttle, however I was curious what a few of you thing of these options... I will test some later this week as well.
1. Go down in rear spring rate to allow rear to drop faster on throttle currently on white and may try green.
2. Go down in rear shock oil. Currently at 30 may try 27.5 with the 1.6 piston
3. Go down to 0 degrees anti-squat vs current 1 degree
4. Go up in front spring rate as I am currently on green and may go up to white or gray.
5. Move battery back as it is one foam from back position now.
Being car is still rotating off corner would a role center change improve this as well. I am running Schelle Caster Plate in up position with no shims.
Thanks!
JRF
My B5M is almost perfect. We run on a medium to lower traction surface indoors. The B5M has been fantastic taking the win last weekend. I would like to obtain just a little more rear grip or forward bite upon corner exit. The car tends to step out a little bit right when you pick up the throttle on exit. Keep in mind again car is really good and this can be managed with throttle, however I was curious what a few of you thing of these options... I will test some later this week as well.
1. Go down in rear spring rate to allow rear to drop faster on throttle currently on white and may try green.
2. Go down in rear shock oil. Currently at 30 may try 27.5 with the 1.6 piston
3. Go down to 0 degrees anti-squat vs current 1 degree
4. Go up in front spring rate as I am currently on green and may go up to white or gray.
5. Move battery back as it is one foam from back position now.
Being car is still rotating off corner would a role center change improve this as well. I am running Schelle Caster Plate in up position with no shims.
Thanks!
JRF
The optimum change will depend on whether the car is still loaded up in the corner when you are applying power, or whether it is on the exit of a hairpin where it is a more pure forward acceleration situation.
I would sugggest:
- move the battery back (and/or use the brass c pivot). This will give the biggest change in forward traction on exit and after tight corners, but can cause some on power push in higher grip. Use RM arms with short wheelbase for a little more forward traction. (Note: when the track gets really slippery I use a brass D pivot, and sometimes 10-20g behind the tower. With an LP servo, this weight bias is similar to RM but with the mass more centralised. The great thing about MM is its easy to take weight off the rear as the grip comes up).
- for springs I use green/green in lower traction, white/white in med traction, and white fr/green rr for more rear traction. Using softer rear springs will help rear traction through the corner, not so much difference in a straight line.
- personally I prefer 2 deg anti-squat as it feels more direct on corner exit in lower traction, but can take away a little rear grip mid corner.
- A lower rear roll centre will help, but it sounds like you are already quite low.
I run rear ride height 1mm lower than the front, and the rear shocks on the inner hole of the tower.
Make sure the diff isnt too loose, as its much easier to diff out an MM than a RM.
Hope this helps.
ray
11-24-2014, 10:58 PM
When I went to rm arms my car would square up faster to throttle up. the other day for the rm arms square up faster then mm arms. the other day, first time my car was almost squaring up too fast on a 180 you have to take tight. Was thinking of trying mm arms again.
Anybody running slipper eliminator with kimbrough spur, we have a small track, small jumps and super smooth was thinking of trying. What is the difference between eliminator and just tightening down slipper all the way?
Anybody running slipper eliminator with kimbrough spur, we have a small track, small jumps and super smooth was thinking of trying. What is the difference between eliminator and just tightening down slipper all the way?
11-24-2014, 11:17 PM
A big reduction in rotating mass. I run the exotek eliminator and a KM-150 spur, and I love it. Car spools up faster for sure.
11-25-2014, 09:48 AM
What I meant to ask is how he got 1.5deg of antisquat. I'm assuming you are using some sort of shimming (since AE only has 1,2,3 degrees of squat available for tuning).
11-25-2014, 10:21 AM
Tech Rookie
I have an easy way to start new ball cups.
If you have a body reamer, open up the very end just a tad. If you don't an X-Acto blade can do the same thing being careful. squirt a lil black grease inside and thread on the turnbuckle. thread them on and off several times to get the threads cut in well and you should be good to go! Wipe off any excess grease after your done!
If you have a body reamer, open up the very end just a tad. If you don't an X-Acto blade can do the same thing being careful. squirt a lil black grease inside and thread on the turnbuckle. thread them on and off several times to get the threads cut in well and you should be good to go! Wipe off any excess grease after your done!
11-25-2014, 10:48 AM
Tech Regular
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Bump... Sorry accidentally unsubscribed... Had to bump to subscribe again... Lol
11-25-2014, 10:56 AM
11-25-2014, 10:59 AM
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11-25-2014, 11:49 AM
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11-25-2014, 08:34 PM
Just bought a B5M, whats the definate parts that are needed? options as well?
11-25-2014, 11:24 PM
11-26-2014, 06:14 AM
But my opinion is the only things you need to get for this car to be extremely competitive in stock or mod is the flat arms and tower and the b5 rear motor rear arms (those are not a must but deff allow you to drive the car harder bc they give you more grip). I would also recommend getting a Schelle bearing kit bc the stock bearings suck! Also get some aluminum hexes for the rear of the car. And last get either the Schelle Nova slipper or a V2 associated slipper bc the VTS is not a very consistent slipper, it really is to much for a 2wd car.
Now if you're running stock I would recommend a puck system and an aluminum top shaft, only bc the mid motor is a little on the heavy side and this will not only take away some weight but it also lightens your drive train so you can get up to speed faster.
These are really the only things you need for the car. The car is extremely competitive out of the box these things just help it be even more competitive.
Hope this helps!
11-26-2014, 06:35 AM
