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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 11-23-2014, 08:57 PM
  #15961  
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Originally Posted by JFuel11
I am curious what your thoughts may be on the following:

My B5M is almost perfect. We run on a medium to lower traction surface indoors. The B5M has been fantastic taking the win last weekend. I would like to obtain just a little more rear grip or forward bite upon corner exit. The car tends to step out a little bit right when you pick up the throttle on exit. Keep in mind again car is really good and this can be managed with throttle, however I was curious what a few of you thing of these options... I will test some later this week as well.

1. Go down in rear spring rate to allow rear to drop faster on throttle currently on white and may try green.
2. Go down in rear shock oil. Currently at 30 may try 27.5 with the 1.6 piston
3. Go down to 0 degrees anti-squat vs current 1 degree
4. Go up in front spring rate as I am currently on green and may go up to white or gray.
5. Move battery back as it is one foam from back position now.

Being car is still rotating off corner would a role center change improve this as well. I am running Schelle Caster Plate in up position with no shims.

Thanks!

JRF
I would try a roll center change. Try lowering the inner rear link 1mm, it should help keep the car more planted and create more traction. Its also a much quicker change than most of whats listed above. I had a similar problem with my car, but it was more entry-mid corner transitioning onto the throttle. I went to 0mm and it helped greatly. Another think you could try is adding .5 degrees of toe at the hub.
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Old 11-23-2014, 09:18 PM
  #15962  
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Does anybody know how much the aluminum screw kit saves in weight?
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Old 11-23-2014, 10:02 PM
  #15963  
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Originally Posted by The Wease
I'm using a 6070 just had to remove the spacer , I get full deflection left and right
Thanks! Appears your 6070 has a touch more clearance than mine. I ground down the case just a touch and everything is moving freely now!

Seth
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Old 11-23-2014, 10:32 PM
  #15964  
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Originally Posted by McCroskey
for example a 81/36 and a 72/32 will both give you a fdr of 5.85, what determines the combination you go with? What would the difference be running each combination on the same motor?
Motor position. Larger gears move the motor (and therefor your weight bias) forward, smaller gears moves it back.
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Old 11-23-2014, 10:33 PM
  #15965  
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Originally Posted by MikeXray
Just realized a car I got has RM front arms, but the MM tower, I remember someone posting the right way to make that work?
That is what I am currently running. Dialed. Shorten your shock shaft stroke to 18.5mm. (i think you go from 2mm to 4mm internal limiters).
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Old 11-23-2014, 11:51 PM
  #15966  
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What does it do differently with mm tower and flat front arm?

Last edited by pink_sleeve; 11-24-2014 at 01:47 AM.
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Old 11-24-2014, 04:29 AM
  #15967  
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
Motor position. Larger gears move the motor (and therefor your weight bias) forward, smaller gears moves it back.
Thanks. I hadn't thought about weight bias. What role does the motors torque and RPM play in the making a choice? I'm thinking a low torque motor would have a hard time spinning a larger pinion with a small spur vs a small pinion with a larger spur. I've tried different combinations and I'm not getting the results I expect.

When I marshal I've noticed that those that are fast, when they come around a turn and hit the throttle their car launches forward real hard. Mine doesn't have that jump but instead has to build up speed. ESC is a Tekin RS Gen2 and the current limiter is turned off when running mod and in blinky when running stock, so that's why I'm focused on gearing.
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Old 11-24-2014, 04:42 AM
  #15968  
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Originally Posted by McCroskey
Thanks. I hadn't thought about weight bias. What role does the motors torque and RPM play in the making a choice? I'm thinking a low torque motor would have a hard time spinning a larger pinion with a small spur vs a small pinion with a larger spur. I've tried different combinations and I'm not getting the results I expect.

When I marshal I've noticed that those that are fast, when they come around a turn and hit the throttle their car launches forward real hard. Mine doesn't have that jump but instead has to build up speed. ESC is a Tekin RS Gen2 and the current limiter is turned off when running mod and in blinky when running stock, so that's why I'm focused on gearing.
What motor are you running? I have no problem with pull out of the corners in blinky. I'm geared 72/30 with a tekin gen2 motor.
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Old 11-24-2014, 06:04 AM
  #15969  
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Originally Posted by STLNLST
What motor are you running? I have no problem with pull out of the corners in blinky. I'm geared 72/30 with a tekin gen2 motor.
In stock Trinity D4 17.5, not the Maxilla though, which I'm wondering if I should have went with. I've gone from the 30d end bell timing out of the box up to as high as 60d. I've tried 69, 72, 75, & 78 with from 31-34 pinion. Started with 69/31 but I read on here a post that said the sweet spot for this motor was 78/30 with max timing. One mistake I caught myself making was setting the gear mess to tight, but even with it looser it just seems like I don't have good drive off. Its not a bite issue either, in fact when the car is planted it really won't jump off the turn, like there's just not enough power.

In mod Tekin 8.5 since that's the max the esc can handle. 78 or 81 spur with 20-23 pinion. Similar prob, not as bad, but top speed is pretty good.
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Old 11-24-2014, 06:29 AM
  #15970  
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Originally Posted by aeRayls
If the shocks don't swivel, something is wrong. Never seen a shock bushing stock or aftermarket that doesn't. The AE aftermarket alum standoffs do it as well.

The upgraded stand offs still have a small pivot, but nothing like the stock ones. I will do a video and post it today.
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Old 11-24-2014, 06:39 AM
  #15971  
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Originally Posted by Cridd
Must be nice to be at the track for 4 days, was watching kids soccer last two days . Got away during thwe week a few hours and hit 15-20 packs thru car but nothing this weekend.
Yeah, it was, but exhausting also. Good times with my daughter though.
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Old 11-24-2014, 06:39 AM
  #15972  
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
That is what I am currently running. Dialed. Shorten your shock shaft stroke to 18.5mm. (i think you go from 2mm to 4mm internal limiters).
Thanks, I was wondering why this guy had 4 shims in the front shocks
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Old 11-24-2014, 06:49 AM
  #15973  
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The "swivel" of the shock on the upper eyelet is crucial for the geometry to work correctly. If the caps cannot pivot on the bushing, the suspension will bind slightly and make the car feel very "numb" on the track. The fore/aft play built into the design is normal as well and does not affect performance negatively. The only things that will cause issues on the shock eyelet is if there is play up/down and play from side to side, which would mean the bushing is worn out, but I've been driving my car nearly every week for 9 months and have yet to wear out the stock plastic shock bushings.
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Old 11-24-2014, 06:54 AM
  #15974  
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This really isn't a b5m question but it's the car I'm running anyway. What foams are you guys using in the front tires?? Been running a few jconcepts tires and just use the stock foam. Been fighting push in my car for the last few races and think it could be the now flat feeling front tires. Thanks
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Old 11-24-2014, 07:10 AM
  #15975  
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Originally Posted by Badcompny44
This really isn't a b5m question but it's the car I'm running anyway. What foams are you guys using in the front tires?? Been running a few jconcepts tires and just use the stock foam. Been fighting push in my car for the last few races and think it could be the now flat feeling front tires. Thanks
http://www.amain.com/jconcepts-dirt-tech-1-10-2wd-buggy-closed-cell-front-insert-2/p298891

Dirt tech inserts are the way to go. Even in sale right now along with their tires. These inserts are firm at first but break in very well.
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