Originally Posted by Nurcdad

Hello anyone reading this, just built my buggy this week, first 2wd buggy, I am stock set up and ran the first time on an indoor high bite clay track, ran pretty good, I have 2 questions for now, my slipper does not seem to function well, when i run the nut flush with shaft, diff barks, loosen it 1 turn out still not slipping, so I tore in down last night, diff and slipper, cleaned diff and lubed, seems to turn smooth with resistance, slipper has no signs of wear at all, put it back together and same thing, I have to back the nut off so loose i can turn by hand and then it slips any tighter diff bark? Second the rear end seems to slide out letting off throttle as long as i feather it seems more consistant, almost feels like high drag brake but I have none, is this a diff problem causing these problems? Ok a 3rd question since I'm here I changed my shock oil also, same weight, used same stock procedure, when i checked my ride height 24mm I had to crank the collars down about 8 turns compared to when I built it to get it right, shocks are smooth, no air that i see or fell whats up confused?

Originally Posted by thebombster

your diff is to loose, dont worry about the slipper slipping at all, you want to properly break it in. look up on youtube "ball diffn breakin"
the bark is cause your diff is slipping, so once you get your diff tight you can tighting your slipper clockwise and then hold both rear wheels and the slipper and blip the throttle it should not bark and the wheels should come off the ground, if it doesnt come up tighten the slipper untill its popping the wheels off the ground a couple inches

Originally Posted by Nurcdad

That is exactly what i did broke it in drill method and table top one wheel at a time a couple of mins each side, tighening each time a bit until I reach 1/2 turn lazy spin on the wheel t-nut flush like in manual right now i have it at fully compressed backed off 1/8 turn, wheels come off the ground fine but slipper is far from the nut flush starting point

Originally Posted by Nurcdad

That is exactly what i did broke it in drill method and table top one wheel at a time a couple of mins each side, tighening each time a bit until I reach 1/2 turn lazy spin on the wheel t-nut flush like in manual right now i have it at fully compressed backed off 1/8 turn, wheels come off the ground fine but slipper is far from the nut flush starting point

Originally Posted by racer1812

I've never understood how people set their diffs with the "flick" method as some have called it How do you even know how hard to spin the tire? Is there some high tech calibrating process you use on your hand before giving her a spin.. I've tried "flicking" on my cars with diffs set where I want them and just seem to get widely varying, inconsistent results on the whole "1/2 turn of the tire".

Just not a method I would suggest to someone new to building ball diffs.

If it works for some of you, great. I personally don't get it.

Originally Posted by racer1812

I've never understood how people set their diffs with the "flick" method as some have called it How do you even know how hard to spin the tire? Is there some high tech calibrating process you use on your hand before giving her a spin.. I've tried "flicking" on my cars with diffs set where I want them and just seem to get widely varying, inconsistent results on the whole "1/2 turn of the tire".

Just not a method I would suggest to someone new to building ball diffs.

If it works for some of you, great. I personally don't get it.

Originally Posted by Cridd

If your diff is fine, double check slipper with instructions that all parts are seated correctly and tighten nut down to flush. Make sure to compress the spring with some pliers before install.

Originally Posted by Afun

How important is it to upgrade the shock stand offs? Seems to be lots of play within the shock cap on the stand off.

Had upgraded Schelle aluminum stand offs but a nut backed out. Ended up going to the stock to the front end....felt fine.

Originally Posted by racer1812

I've never understood how people set their diffs with the "flick" method as some have called it How do you even know how hard to spin the tire? Is there some high tech calibrating process you use on your hand before giving her a spin.. I've tried "flicking" on my cars with diffs set where I want them and just seem to get widely varying, inconsistent results on the whole "1/2 turn of the tire".

Just not a method I would suggest to someone new to building ball diffs.

If it works for some of you, great. I personally don't get it.

Originally Posted by Cridd

If your diff is fine, double check slipper with instructions that all parts are seated correctly and tighten nut down to flush. Make sure to compress the spring with some pliers before install.

Originally Posted by pumpkinfish

Guys, I need some help figuring out my buggy. It has been very frustrating at the end of last season and so far this season. It seems the rear never settles down and whenever I get on power it is very loose. The worst part is when I am turning. When I apply the throttle at the apex, the rear breaks loose and I spin.

I have tried different motors and esc's, tried different setups using the mid motor arms/front tower and the rear motor arms/front tower and have taken the whole car apart and rebuilt the thing. I didn't find any bent hinge pins or shock shafts. I have rebuilt the diff, changed the bearings and nothing seems to be helping. I even used my friends set of tires that were hooking up for him and it was slightly better. I'm not sure where to go from here. I am currently using this setup:

http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...sJumps_Gay.pdf

It's funny when I first built the kit it was great. I don't know what heppened, but this has been frustrating!