Zaxbys

iTrader: (9)

Very nice. I'm running prolines wedge^2 and pinpoints this winter on my B5M. Ran the original wedge and pinpoints last year on my B4 and it was phenomenal, so I hope it's more of the same this year

You bring up an interesting point though: what are everyone's thoughts on running B5 rear arms on a B5M on high grip. I've been under the impression that the B5 rear arms are for more traction so if you already have lots of traction, are they really needed?

heinen81

I went back and forth on this rear versus mid arms on the B5M for quite a while, and got the chance to talk to an Associated Rep at the Spektrum Nationals, and was told this, straight from the source...
the B5 flat front arms and tower WILL make the car corner slightly more consistent, on very high bite clay or carpet/astro tracks. He said even that is debatable on high bite clay, some of their drivers don't even notice a difference on clay. He also said in terms of improving traction on the B5M, the rear arms only move the axle center line ahead 1.5mm, and there are other adjustments available on the model to provide far more traction that switching arms. While he said changing the front and rear arms will not hurt the B5M on clay/dirt surfaces, it is probably more a case of drivers making the change expecting to feel certain things,so the mind makes them think it does. Carpet/astro is a different story he said, there you will notice those changes quite a bit in front end feel and cornering.

Buggy Convert

iTrader: (3)

Guys,

As much as I rebuild the diff on this car, I can't seem to get it really smooth. Is it meant to have some roughness to it? I mean it's not gritty or anything, just not as smooth as a gear diff.

Any tricks to building the diff?

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

I can feel the difference with the rm parts. I run on high bite indoor moist clay.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

It will never feel like a gear diff.

Krio

iTrader: (159)

The steering link is part of the roll center equation, it's just that most online examples don't show it or use it. The upper link and arm are the largest factors in determining roll center. The change in bump steering is more noticeable than the change in roll center from moving the steering link, so for the sake of convenience it is usually ignored.

micrors4guy

iTrader: (50)

if it does change the roll center is there a place where i can read how it changes the roll center?

scythe23

iTrader: (4)

I agree with Wildcat, I run on a med/high bite damp clay/dirt mixture and noticed a significant difference when using the RM rear arms. To the guy that talked to the AE rep, 1.5mm can be a significant difference, if you don't believe me make a 1.5 mm change to all of your adjustments and let me know how your car drives. While there are other things you can tune for traction an easy change like using the RM arms combined with other tuning features works very well. Most single changes that you make wont make a huge difference on their own but combined with an entire setup its night and day. There is a reason the majority of b5m users are using the b5rm arms and its not because everyone likes changing things its because it works

Afun

iTrader: (19)

Using B4.2 Avid Triad Spur on my B5. I needed to buy a new Avid Triad Shim Set. This brought the adapter that goes on first before the first drive plate. The b4.2 adapter did not fit over the B5 topshaft. I also needed the washer that goes over and around the Avid spring. I used the same nut that came with the B5 kit. Also, since I had the regular drive plates and not the " EVO " ones...I still need to use the two washers and the 1 cone washer in between the spur and the final drive plate.

This one tickled my brain a bit...

dbowen

iTrader: (7)

Yes there should be a cone shaped spacer that has a cone on one side and a flat side on the other that goes on first to fill in the spot between the motor plate and the top shaft, then the drive plate goes on with the flat side out so the spacer you just put on will sit in the little indent on the inside of the drive plate, and until you get the b5 spring washer you will just have to use the regular b5 spring and washer. Just make sure you squeeze the spring with pliers before you do it bc the downside to the b5 spring is there is very little room for adjustment just an 1/8 of a turn to much and youre barking a diff. Last yes you do still have to use the cone washers.

Hope this helps!

Afun

iTrader: (19)

I don't see the positive to using the smaller Avid Spring.

How about the washer that sits on the spring....still recommended to keep it flush with this Avid set-up?

heinen81

I didn't say anyone running them was wrong, just relaying what I was told by factory support when I asked the question. I will probably try it myself, however with the somewhat looser condition of our track, I know the flat front arms did cause a bad push for some of the guys who tried it. I would probably just do the rears to see if there is any improvement. With the addition of weight to the rear of the shock tower, shock positioning and lowering the rear ball stud mounts -2mm, traction has already improved tenfold from out of the box. I should clarify, when I mean traction, I mean corner exit on throttle... forward bite has been good from the start.

dbowen

iTrader: (7)

As I said the Avid spring is just a better spring because it has a lot more room for adjustment. The B5 spring is just to stiff and 1/8th of a turn to much and you will bark a diff.

No the best way to adjust the slipper is to have it loose enough and your diff tight enough so you know you're not going to bark the diff and then put one hand on one tire and the radio on the other and hit full throttle for 1-2 seconds and keep tightening your slipper until it pulls the front wheels off the ground 1-3 inches depending on your track.

cweb

iTrader: (36)

This is what I'm running on a tight carpet track. I got a chance to practice yesterday and got it a little better when I changed the caster block insert to zero, it was pushing on throttle. And also no spacers on the rack for ackermann.

cweb

iTrader: (36)

sanding the diff rings flat will make it smoother and last longer between rebuilds. check out the 1/12 thread for tips on how, those guys are all about silky smooth diffs.