lbckevin

iTrader: (107)

Probably Married....

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

lol. that was funny

robbie_gtc

iTrader: (7)

Ain't that the truth !

Gpeters66

iTrader: (1)

1 Easier to build 2 already broken in and no more lost thrust balls.

Skeeter36

iTrader: (32)

I never had an issue loosin them but those casper r/c ones are supposed to be pretty good. I personally like the mip diff screw and their thrust balls and washers, they last forever and I have never broke an MIP diff screw.

mel_russ615

iTrader: (3)

ran my b5rm for the first time yesterday. had a lot of fun with it. if anyone can pm me setup tips or sheets. i've already printed off all the setup sheets from ae website. just want some tips and advice from real people who have driven this buggy. thanks in advance

Tradin Paint

iTrader: (4)

Because the sheets on the AE website are from robots that have never driven this car?

BRSracing

iTrader: (67)

MIP puck system worth the money or not? How often do the pucks have to be changed and durability? Also the mod system is for 13.5 and lower. I have a stock and mod b5. is the stock version just for weight because in rm weight is not a issue on my car and to save mone was thinking just used the mod version in both.

BRSracing

iTrader: (67)

MIP puck system worth the money or not? How often do the pucks have to be changed and durability? Also the mod system is for 13.5 and lower. I have a stock and mod b5. is the stock version just for weight because in rm weight is not a issue on my car and to save mone was thinking just used the mod version in both.

will5879

I think it is for stock. I've been running the RM at Fastlane for the last couple of weeks and the car definitely has more punch. The rotating mass savings are significant with the aluminum driveline. And I really like that the pucks remove all of the slop in the outdrives (also benefits the mod version too). Not sure of durability yet...

kuruption

iTrader: (24)

My 2 cents having run the Pucks on a mod car for a few weekends of racing.

I've had 2 failures in 3 weeks with the pucks breaking sending the pins flying. Buy plenty of spares. One may say it's a result of something I've done, possibly. It would be something you should check after every run to ensure the pucks are in good shape and the screws are tight. Basically, if you see any kind of wear on the pucks or notice any kind of gap (beyond the small gap that exists naturally) between the pucks and outdrives after a run, replace the pucks immediately.

With that being said, the outdrives provided with the pucks setup are excellent. It builds a really smooth, reliable ball diff. There is no clunkiness to the diff after a race day, and the outdrives appear to be very flat and well manufactured where you apply the rings. This is the primary reason I keep the pucks system in my mod car. Despite the issues with reliability, I find the diff stays consistent for multiple weeks.

Overall, I like the setup... it just requires more attention during your prep/tune/rebuild sessions.

Jmuck69

iTrader: (14)

Avid ceramic

Jim Hustins

iTrader: (4)

Always remember to use MIP grease on the pucks so they move freely in the outdrives. This will make them last a lot longer.

I would not recommend using the B5M 17.5 puck system in a mod setup. The driveshafts are aluminum. But, if you are looking for a super lightweight efficient drivetrain for stock racing, go for it.

HeavyD99

iTrader: (15)

What is the general consensus on wheels? I currently run Proline all around, I like their flush with the wheel nut design, but I noticed the other day that the Proline front wheels are the same width as DE 4wd fronts?! I know JC are popular, but is there really any difference between wheels? Anyone run Avids?

Afun

iTrader: (19)

Can anyone summarize what they have done different from box set-up?