137LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
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10-20-2014, 08:53 PM
right now I am running white fronts and white rear. the track is not exactly smooth. when it is smoother I will go 35/32.5 with the 1.6's
10-20-2014, 10:30 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (17)
10-20-2014, 11:10 PM
1. Compress spring with pliers, then assembly diff
2. tighten diff screw until nut pretty much bottoms out. I assembly the diff on the bench, but set it in the car.
3. install in car.
4. put tires on
5. take a tire in each hand and rotate them in opposite directions in a quick motion and let go simultaneously with both hands. I aim for about a 1/2 diff rotation after I let go.
6. adjust screw until you achieve this. Unscrewing the passenger inner camber link ball stud and keeping it on by just a few threads until the diff is set allows for a convenient way to access the diff screw.
7. set the rings by holding a tire and running the motor at about 10% throttle for 30sec. Then hold the other tire and repeat.
8. Diff will loosen up a bit, so tighten until about a 1/2 rotation spinning by hand is achieved
9. run on track a few minutes, check and tighten as needed.
10-21-2014, 12:47 AM
is anyone on here running the chassis set-up with the battery longways and if so what differences did you notice?
10-21-2014, 01:27 AM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Hey guys! Just finished building my B5 rear motor. I run on a medium traction track with a lot of loamy bits off line. Is there a recommended base setup to go from? Running a 10.5T motor in it with Rips front and green DDs in the rear.
Thanks!
Thanks!
10-21-2014, 04:46 AM
Tech Adept
1 mm shim at servo arm
I had to take this shim off to keep the servo link from hitting the case of the servo. It was not allowing me to get full travel to the left. Servo is Spektrum 6040. Is this going to mess something else up?
10-21-2014, 05:12 AM
10-21-2014, 05:46 AM
It's installed in the correct orientation. The t-nut should be pretty much bottomed out. Here's how I check for a proper diff setting. Others may have a different approach.
1. Compress spring with pliers, then assembly diff
2. tighten diff screw until nut pretty much bottoms out. I assembly the diff on the bench, but set it in the car.
3. install in car.
4. put tires on
5. take a tire in each hand and rotate them in opposite directions in a quick motion and let go simultaneously with both hands. I aim for about a 1/2 diff rotation after I let go.
6. adjust screw until you achieve this. Unscrewing the passenger inner camber link ball stud and keeping it on by just a few threads until the diff is set allows for a convenient way to access the diff screw.
7. set the rings by holding a tire and running the motor at about 10% throttle for 30sec. Then hold the other tire and repeat.
8. Diff will loosen up a bit, so tighten until about a 1/2 rotation spinning by hand is achieved
9. run on track a few minutes, check and tighten as needed.
1. Compress spring with pliers, then assembly diff
2. tighten diff screw until nut pretty much bottoms out. I assembly the diff on the bench, but set it in the car.
3. install in car.
4. put tires on
5. take a tire in each hand and rotate them in opposite directions in a quick motion and let go simultaneously with both hands. I aim for about a 1/2 diff rotation after I let go.
6. adjust screw until you achieve this. Unscrewing the passenger inner camber link ball stud and keeping it on by just a few threads until the diff is set allows for a convenient way to access the diff screw.
7. set the rings by holding a tire and running the motor at about 10% throttle for 30sec. Then hold the other tire and repeat.
8. Diff will loosen up a bit, so tighten until about a 1/2 rotation spinning by hand is achieved
9. run on track a few minutes, check and tighten as needed.
10-21-2014, 06:07 AM
I ran not far off kit setup in those conditions, it liked 2mm trailing, green/green springs. Play with the rear link height depending on what you need.
10-21-2014, 06:39 AM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Don't know if it will mess anything up... I did the same, and also removed the 1mm spacer on the servo to keep the linkage straight.
10-21-2014, 10:28 AM
So I moved my hubs back (longest wheel base), softer front shock oil, 2lminters all the way around.
If I am still wanting more steering, what would you suggest?
I could go to Panther slicks which is what many use at my track but I just dont like them because they are so aggressive and so inconsistent.
If I am still wanting more steering, what would you suggest?
I could go to Panther slicks which is what many use at my track but I just dont like them because they are so aggressive and so inconsistent.
10-21-2014, 10:32 AM
So I moved my hubs back (longest wheel base), softer front shock oil, 2lminters all the way around.
If I am still wanting more steering, what would you suggest?
I could go to Panther slicks which is what many use at my track but I just dont like them because they are so aggressive and so inconsistent.
If I am still wanting more steering, what would you suggest?
I could go to Panther slicks which is what many use at my track but I just dont like them because they are so aggressive and so inconsistent.
10-21-2014, 10:34 AM
Probably more on power.
10-21-2014, 11:28 AM
you could try 3 limiters in the front, stiffer rear spring, heavier oil in the rear shocks or the offset bushings
10-21-2014, 11:33 AM
This diff rebuild I just built is on the tight side, that would give me more steering right?
Or is it the opposite?
Looser=more steering
or
Looser=less steering
Or is it the opposite?
Looser=more steering
or
Looser=less steering