Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
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Tech Regular
iTrader: (26)
Green slime!!!!
Tech Champion
iTrader: (170)
Tech Adept
discovery
I had mentioned before that it was taking twice as much preload on one rear rear shock verses the other to get "bones level". One of the shocks has lots of resistance once the shock is assembled and before oil goes in. I have taken it apart and put back together many times, I am not fixing it. My 15 year old dremel no longer works. Guess I will polish shafts first. I don't have much support equipment. Ordered 2.5 wench instead of 2.0. Using the L wrenches with arthritis is no fun. Broke off neg. wire from bat to ESC. Can't even try to make Hotwire work. Did I mention I don't have much support equipment.
Thanks for reading my
I feel a little bit better.
Thanks for reading my
I feel a little bit better.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
So on the recent Jeremy Harris setup used 3.5mm offset cups up front, and the normal 5mm in the rear. is the offset literally just inside the cup, how much it is allowed to go up in relation to where the spring is? Also there are similarly numbered cups with completely different spring offsets. Like a 3mm high spring offset, and 3mm low spring offset. Is this differentiated within setup sheets?
When/how does body style come into play in tuning?
I hear a lot of different things about different bodies performing differently but only run stock myself.
When should I be looking at something like the JConcepts Silencer or Finisher or ProLine Phantom to improve some area of performance?
I hear a lot of different things about different bodies performing differently but only run stock myself.
When should I be looking at something like the JConcepts Silencer or Finisher or ProLine Phantom to improve some area of performance?
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
Changing out bearings that go bad, making cuts to plastic to fit electronics, or changing pistons, are all things that everybody does to EVERY single car out there as they wear, or as setup requirements change for the track.
Literally NOTHING on the car "has" to be replaced (or cut) for it to be completely competitive right out of the box. This is easily the most bang-for-the-buck race kit I have ever built... and I have raced most of them. Cmon, "mate".
Literally NOTHING on the car "has" to be replaced (or cut) for it to be completely competitive right out of the box. This is easily the most bang-for-the-buck race kit I have ever built... and I have raced most of them. Cmon, "mate".
Any tips? Is this normal?
Tech Master
iTrader: (39)
They loosen up real quick. I had one front arm that wouldn't return after the build. After first run it worked great
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (112)
Anyone know if the B4/T4 gear diff is a drop-in for the B5?
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (112)
Tech Champion
iTrader: (159)
The gear is a tad narrower, but it will work.
So on the recent Jeremy Harris setup used 3.5mm offset cups up front, and the normal 5mm in the rear. is the offset literally just inside the cup, how much it is allowed to go up in relation to where the spring is? Also there are similarly numbered cups with completely different spring offsets. Like a 3mm high spring offset, and 3mm low spring offset. Is this differentiated within setup sheets?
Cup offsets isn't a tuning aid in any way shape or form. Just use the 5 (middle size on the front and rear of all buggies. The 9's are for the front and rear of all trucks. The 0's are useless unless you're using another brand of spring that a lot longer than AE.