QDRHRSE

iTrader: (515)

Depends on the type of 17.5. 69/31-32 is probably an ok place to start for almost any 17.5 but might not be ideal for your track. Crack open the manual. AEs manual setups are pretty good.

Mantis Toboggan

iTrader: (4)

I'll just leave this here.



That is the bfast break in method. Follow it exactly.

carcrazy699

iTrader: (49)

I did my diff exactly like the manual said when I built my car but it seems a tad to tight still. I am going to try the bfast way and see if there is a difference.

Razathorn

iTrader: (2)

I run this outside and it's great. Track goes from hot and loamy and unable to really retain moisture on the surface to grooved and potentially moist at night. I run paddled modded m3 holeshots with open cell foam when the track is super slippery, dusty, and hot, then m4 holeshots with blue closed cell when the sun goes down, and if the track gets in shape, m4 electrons with blue closed cell foam. Let me be clear that I am not advocating open cell foam, I just don't feel like wasting money on closed cell inserts when you want a softer foam anyway and nobody's really pushing their tires to the edge of deforming on a super slick track.

Please note that if I were to run inside, I would go to low mount +3mm and 1 thin pad forward battery as my starting point. This is an outdoor variant of my normal setup.

MODELTECH22

iTrader: (20)

Thank you much!!! roar race here in town Saturday we will see if this works for me as well.

Speedychris22

iTrader: (68)

Interesting that u run the outer hole on the rear camber link. Doesn't that make the car oversteer?

Razathorn

iTrader: (2)

Nope. It's only a "half hole" longer than the A middle. The standard hole is A middle, the B outer is a half hole longer, B inner is half hole shorter.

What it does is take away high speed corner apex traction and add low speed traction, which is actually very helpful.

As the car chassis rolls hard, such as in a sharp apex at speed, where you would want rotation, it makes the tire hold LESS contact patch because the camber gain is less,. This makes the car's rear slide and the car rotate more. As you get pointed in the right direction and start leveling out, the car hooks up MORE. This is why it doesn't oversteer—it hooks back up with authority when you want to go. The rotation of the car is much more fluid, controllable, and predictable.

To understand why, you have to familiarize yourself with what camber gain does (the length of your link, best adjusted at the hub to not mess with roll center.) More camber gain will make the top of the rear tires tuck in on power when going straight. That removes contact patch when your rear end squats going straight, for less net traction if you're pointed in the right direction, such as when you're done rotating in a corner. At the same time, when you're either hard in the apex of a corner, or accelerating out HARD, the chassis is rolled and the camber gain makes the tire lean more straight up and down, instead of leaning out so much, which adds contact patch and traction. The inverse is true: less camber gain gives you more straight line traction and less traction when your car is rolled hard.

The down side of running a longer link with less camber gain is that if you run enough droop, or simply just get on it hard enough, you can break traction once you're hooked up exiting a corner hard, but in my experience, this is NOT the case on the b5m generally. I've gone back and fourth on that hole and really prefer the B out hole in all situations. It just feels more controllable everywhere.

Wayne

carcrazy699

iTrader: (49)

Wow! Thanks so much for the explanation. Your track is exactly like my local one. Ours won't hold water during the day also and grooves really nice at night. I can't wait to try your setup on the track. I have been having issues with traction through corners but have tons of rear traction. I am going to switch to the proline holeshots for the front because I am using the ribbed and that could be one issue.

For the ones that are running 17.5 would there be any changes to your setup that we should do?

Razathorn

iTrader: (2)

Anytime. I try to share when I can.

Where in the corner are you losing traction? Always good to understand what is happening to the car's attitude at that point and what items add or remove rear traction at that time.

Nope. If people run a 3 gear, they *might* want to try half degree inserts in the rear hubs or 21mm droop (SORRY sorry, I mean STROKE, sorry...) in the front for some more rear traction, but that's honestly just a guess, and those two things really change the car too.

Wayne

QDRHRSE

iTrader: (515)

What we do when we run the track wet is run an 1mm HRC kit and drill a third, inside, shock mount hole, on the arm as well as a lot of droop in the front. Got the idea from some local AE drivers. I run long rear links all the time regardless but I would think that you'd want a shorter rear link for lower traction.

carcrazy699

iTrader: (49)

I am losing traction through the whole corner if I try to keep it under power like a lot of the guys do at the track. I have to basically coast around the corner and right when I can start to straighten out I can get back on power again.

I am running the 3 gear that came with my car. Everything on my car is stock setup besides removing the brace behind the servo and the brace between battery strap. I was thinking of moving the esc forward along with the battery to help with the forward bite. Right now I am running the esc and rx inline.

Hoping I explained the issue decently. I am still learning

Razathorn

iTrader: (2)

I thought so too, but when I tried the shorter standard link, it added a ton of traction in the corner, like it was too stuck, and wouldn't rotate, and then it was more loose getting on power. It just made the car feel pushy and loose.

Razathorn

iTrader: (2)

What kind of corner? Large, small, fast, slow?

Well, obviously the first thing to check is ride height, tires, differential, and camber settings. Having a relatively tight differential is key on low traction.

yxiaocheng

iTrader: (18)

Thank you for the info! I am hitting the track as soon as I put all electronics together. I bought the car used and it did not come with pinion gear. Just kind of want to have a reasonable pinion gear to start up. Probably it's a better idea to buy from local track.

Again, Thank you very much. I will be looking for guys that run the best on the track. Will be an interesting experience to learn!

yxiaocheng

iTrader: (18)

Thanks man. I appreciate it!