Bcholka

Go mid-motor. Our track (Trackside Raceway in Wisconsin) is medium bite and mid-motors rock there!!!!
Lots of people "seem" to feel that you need very high bite for them to work--it's just not true. I think people have these ideas because certain "convertible" buggies (where you can switch from mid to rear) just don't work.
When you run a dedicated design (mid motor specifically) the geometry is such to maximize the buggy's performance.
Kudos to AE for releasing these dedicated designs!!

Davidka

iTrader: (86)

All shafts are coated (chromed). You can chuck your shafts into a dremel with some chrome polish on a rag and polish them. It makes them super smooth. Either way, the shafts don't contribute to oil contamination. They are by far the hardest component in the assembly.

lee111m

If your that worried about the shafts, the thought that I had was just to switch the shocks from my b4. And a set of lundsfords isn't going to break the bank either. I'll get a b5 after this summers offroad season, ft version or not.

FantomLeopard

iTrader: (8)

Like this?



Well, I'll just have to wait until I have the money My track is a little dusty though so I don't know how well it would work there. With the new year coming though I'm sure the release of the B5M will bring a couple people back and I'm sure I'll have the chance to try one out before making the jump!

Davidka

iTrader: (86)

This continues coming up but what, exactly has been identified as a weakness with conversions?

The TLR 22 should be omitted since its motor is so far forward of the diff. But Kyosho, Xfactory, Durango? All of these are proven winners.

DG Designs

iTrader: (14)

[QUOTE=FantomLeopard;12860627]Like this?



Forgot about that one. The Finnisher came out so soon after it, it kind of got passed by. That and i don't think they did it for the long chassis did they?

fredswain

iTrader: (1)

I would normally agree with you. The important thing you are talking about is the angle of the shock in relation to the arm as referenced to a line drawn from the lower shock mount to the inner hinge pin. The more laid down in relation to this line, the more progressive the shock. As you've pointed out, the B5M has a slightly gullwing arm which in essence lays the shock down more in relation to this line. However, AE have also changed the shock tower for the B5M which is slightly wider than the B5 tower. While this stands up the shock more in relation to the ground, it restores the lower angle in relation to the arm line to that of the straight arm with the narrower tower which means the B5 and B5M should have the same effective progressiveness between each car with the same equivalent shock mounting holes. Had the tower stayed the same between cars, you'd be correct.

Kevin Boyle

RC10B5 RM has been pre-ordered.... just need time to fly by so I can get that build on.

Pittsdriver

iTrader: (11)

I have a Lunsford kit standing by. I won't use the stock turnbuckles just like I didn't use the stock ballcups on the B4.2 kit when I built it.

Jmuck69

iTrader: (14)

It was mentioned that the B5 turnbuckles are the same as the B4.2, so the JC Ti turnbuckles are going on. I honestly don't think the Ti coated shock shafts are really needed. I like the plastic cap myself and have no plans changing it. I used the Ti coated ballstuds and the coating was rubbing off, and used the silver AE ball studs instead with happier results. I myself will immediately replace the kit bearings with Avid since kit bearings suck! Avid springs will definitely go on and the Avid Triad slipper since it's smaller, lighter and I think works better than the AE unit.

I Really like the design of the B5 & B5M, well thought out and uses key points from other designs. Can't wait.

Jmuck69

iTrader: (14)

I still think this is one of the better looking bodies out there along with the Finnisher. If they brought back the Punnisher for the B5 series....WINNER!

skrib21

iTrader: (32)

Thanks for the input guys, I think I will start with the turnbuckles from the get go and leave the rest and see how it holds up.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

I dont know what to say. My gold shafts either make the oil clear or brown (dirt), the silver ones always are dark silver. I would also think the shaft is the hardest parts, but like i said, with silver shafts, my oil looks like it has metalic flakes in it. We can argue the science all day, but this is my experience with them.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

keep in mind, those ball studs on the b5 are probably metric. So what ever you had before might not work. Plus, the new ball joints look pretty good. I dont think it will be the same as with the b4.

Bcholka

My experience since owning an X-Factory has been their efforts with creating "cvd bind" to assist with forward traction. It seems like the conversion vehicles work towards manipulating transmission height and adding weight for assisting with forward traction. As a result my personal experiences (along with observing others experiences) has been that conversions do fine on very high bite but dedicated mid-motor designs can excel on less than high bite. This is why I feel that anyone "on the fence" about MM shouldn't be afraid to pull the trigger--especially if they're worried about traction levels at their track--the dedicated mid's ARE the future!!
BTW--this isn't just with X-Factory--the Centro's do great as well. I love my X but have a B5M on Pre-order for my son to run in mod--can't wait!!!!!