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Old 07-15-2005, 01:42 PM   #1
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Default Novak XRS

I've read both good and bad about this ESC.. Will if work for a MF2 with a PK2? I'd like to add a Dean's plug for the battery and hard wire the motor. I will be racing but am just starting out.

Any thoughts and comments would be appreciated..

Thanks,

Charley
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Old 07-15-2005, 02:45 PM   #2
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Yes that speed control will work with that motor and you can use any motor up to a 15 turn motor.
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Old 07-15-2005, 03:05 PM   #3
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Ok.. I understand the ESC's motor limit but have read some posts awhile back about the ESC overheating even with a stock motor. Just looking for some current feedback.

Thanks for your post.

Charley
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Old 07-16-2005, 03:21 AM   #4
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I've heard the exact thing you have heard.There is another fault that lies with the setup button.For some reason it gets stuck easily, happened to 3 people i know.

Sean
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Old 07-16-2005, 10:34 AM   #5
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Thanks, Sean.
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Old 07-16-2005, 12:22 PM   #6
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i use the XRS on my micros. it works great.
the problem i have seen is that 15turn motors usually use 6 to 8 degrees of timing. the stock motors use 24 degrees which draws more amperage.
you are not suppose to run alot of timing with a reversable esc. people like to run in reverse and go forward spinnig the tires. this is hard on this esc using a stock motor. even in stock racing you are using full throttle alot with the higher timing its hard on the esc. the XRS will work with the 15 turn motors fine.
i think a better choice would be the novak dually. also the XRS does not have the disable reverse option. once you move up in class from novice your local track may tell you to change the esc.
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Old 07-16-2005, 02:58 PM   #7
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Thanks for the input.

Charley
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Old 07-16-2005, 07:06 PM   #8
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The XRS is a good speed control for beginners using 27 turn motors, however, I wouldn't test the 15 turn motor limit. I burnt my XRS out using a Speed Gems 17 turn, even with thermal overload protection. Novak refused to fix it under waranty, because I changed the plugs to lightspeed connectors. I then got into an argument about how the speed control was given solderable wire tabs for a reason, but this point got me nothing in terms of progress. I would not use the XRS with anything less than a 17 turn stock motor. I have a Chameleon that I wouldn't even trust with it, and it is a ROAR 19 turn spec motor. If you had to choose, go for the Rooster. The Rooster has all the same features, but an older version of the "Smart Braking" software, and nice, big heatsinks to keep the tempuratures under control. The manual says it is rated for a "Mild-Modified," but from my own experience, and what I've heard and read, a 17 turn should be the lowest you should go. Your hobby shop should have a Rooster for about $5 or $10 more than the XRS, but for the money, your getting a much better speed control. I swapped out the XRS for a Rooster for no charge at my hobby shop, because it was used (with the box, and sealed bags with hardware, and capacitors), and the shop owner was going to send the XRS back for repairs ($35 or so), and sell it as new again. The Rooster has only let me down once, and that was when running a 12 turn Fantom Factory Modified. It ran about 1/2 a battery before shutting itself down. The heatsinks were hotter than mu O.S. .15 nitro engines head, yet it still kicked back on for more. The Thermal Overload Protection offered on the Novak's are a great feature, but you must remember, that when they switch back on, it doesn't mean you can run them again, you have to take your car off the track, and change the motor or gearing. Continous use of this feature can, and will, result in the irreperable destruction of your speed control. I had to learn the hard way with the XRS and the Speed Gems. I guess 1 more lap turned out to be one too many.

Anyway, from my experience, the Rooster is the way to go.

I hate to disagree with you, but the amperage draw on a 12, 15, or 19 turn modified with 8, or even 6 degrees of timing, draws more current than a Monster Stock with locked 24 degree timing. The stronger magnetic field, the lower wind, and often times the larger brushes and oversized comms make for a high current motor, which requires a decent ESC. The XRS WIL NOT accept a 15 turn motor, unless it is a 'cheap' Venom Fireball, at least not without cutting out every 1 or 2 laps. For use in micros, the XRS can handle just about any brushed motor, due to the lower current.
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Old 07-16-2005, 10:10 PM   #9
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Thanks a lot.. Very helpful..

Charley
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Old 07-17-2005, 10:15 PM   #10
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The XRS worked fine today. I added deans plugs for the battery and left the bullet connectors. Since everything went ok today, I am going to try hardwiring the ESC to the motor. Thanks for the help everyone.

Charley
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Old 07-18-2005, 06:43 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles_Howarth
The XRS worked fine today. I added deans plugs for the battery and left the bullet connectors. Since everything went ok today, I am going to try hardwiring the ESC to the motor. Thanks for the help everyone.

Charley
Just remember, that will void the warranty of the XRS.

Sean
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Old 07-18-2005, 10:37 AM   #12
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One way to avoid this problem would be to remove the stock wires at the solder tab, then if it soed quit on you, use your best soldering skills to put the stock wires back on.
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