King DORK

iTrader: (53)

http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...ton-Set-Blue-4
I just got a set of these to try in my Tekno SCT410. Haven't installed them yet but they look amazing. Top notch machine/mold work. Hoping to try them soon and will report back what I think.

tropmonky

iTrader: (5)

I'm sad to say I had to give up on these shock valves. The machine work on them is horrible. When taking a very close look at the holes it looks like the tooling was spinning at too high of a RPM causing the material to melt a little bit and leave behind melted flashing in the holes. This makes every hole a different size. With tolerances so low this really isn't something that should be "cleaned out" by hand with something like a exact-o blade or something of the sort.

I ended up going back to my tapered AE 1.6 pistons which are working much better and predictable for me.

Grasschopper

iTrader: (54)

I will say that mine had a bunch of flashing as well but I just cleaned it out and have really liked the suspension on my B5 running these (the blue).

tropmonky

iTrader: (5)

Care to share your setup? How much does your care weigh?

Grasschopper

iTrader: (54)

Mostly stock B5rm setup...stock springs but I went with Losi 30 wt up front and 27.5 wt in the rear.

tropmonky

iTrader: (5)

Wow, with that setup anything more than a 2ft jump would make my car slap the ground so hard it hurt to hear it. Oh well, I've moved on. *unsubscribed*

CRP

Wish you would have come to us a month ago when you first purchased them (exchange). I know you blocked off some holes as well which we do not recommend. We have had lots of positive feedback with the CSI pistons.

I have seen some issues with flashing which is normal when machining small pistons, it's actually pretty simple to remove. Next time, please shoot us an email if there is an issue to give us the opportunity to address it first.

CRP

Thank you for responding and the feedback!

King DORK

iTrader: (53)

I must be special. I checked, and double checked mine. NO extra flashing to report. As stated in an earlier post, outstanding machine work. Any ideas on pistons for Durango ? ?

Grasschopper

iTrader: (54)

No problem. I have really enjoyed the performance for my B5 over the B4.2 and I think the shock package has something to do with that. Of course since I'm running the CSI pistons they play a roll. I'm putting in an order soon for the Red pistons for my B5 as I'm about to go outdoors to a rougher and much lower grip track. At the same time I'm going to be buying the Blue pistons for my D8.

CRP

We are gearing up for the 2015 racing season here at CRP. If you wish to be considered as one of our Team drivers next season please shoot me your resume ([email protected]). This will include all CSI Shock products and Comp Heat products.

There will be different levels of sponsorship available, from Rookie to Pro level racers. Team drivers will be determined and notified in December.

1mrdad

iTrader: (48)

I have been using the blue 12mm pistons flat side up in a B5RM 17.5 blinky since November with great success on an indoor med-high bite clay track. My son was so impressed with the car, he is using them in his Losi 22 MM car, and I just bought another set for a B5MM. Here is my question. When I first set-up a car, I spring balance the car using the Fred Swain method as described in the tuning with camber links thread. I ended up using Associated 17.5wt in the front and 15 wt in the rear. The car handles very well, jumps well, and plants and scoots after a jump. It does not bottom out after a big jump, nor does it "pogo". It seemed to me with anything heavier than 20wt, the shocks had too much pack. Local "pros" who have driven the car, are impressed how fast and easy the car is to drive. Am I missing something by not using 27.5wt oil (or heavier). If it matters, the car weighs 1505gr (w/body, wing, battery, and tires).

wreckya

iTrader: (1)

I have these in 12 & 15mm in blue and red, I run the blue 12mm's emulsion style on a 1/10th scale losi and love them. So I bought the 15's for my tekno, I put the red's plat part up top and with the factory tekno shock screw on top the piston I can't run the shock like I do which is non-vent with a bladder cuz when it compresses the nut pushes up against the bladder to hard and the shock just doesn't function right. So I guess you either run emulsion style only or I'm gonna try a low profile 3mm nut I found in line that might work right. I emailed CSI in regards to this but haven't heard back yet.

fredswain

iTrader: (1)

I'm glad to see the technique works well for you. I know nothing about these pistons so I won't comment on them. What I will say is that now that you are using a balanced spring rate, you need to achieve balanced pack as well. You should be able to pass the drop test showing equal rising and falling rates even after the oil is in place and each end should bottom at the same time. This is tricky but when you get it right, the front oil will always be lighter than the rear since pack is a function of not only total hole area and oil weight, but also of piston speed which is determined by total shock travel. Having the same pistons front and rear equals very different amounts of pack with the front having far less! If you like the way your car handles now, work on this aspect. Different pistons are a curiosity to me but I'm very happy with plain old standard flat pistons. Maybe someday I'll try others out. I also only run non-vented bladder systems and wouldn't even entertain doing it any other way. I used to swear by emulsion but will never go back. They just aren't better anywhere.

This is just my own personal style though but a well setup shock with standard parts can be far better than you think it is. I'd learn how to master standard setups and then move up to more complex systems. That way you'll understand what is happening.