fredswain

iTrader: (1)

If you buy a B4.2 why would you want to "upgrade" to the Serpent? It's taking a step sideways if anything. Just stick to one car and get good with it.

shagino

iTrader: (57)

Yup, agreed. The B4.2 is a fine car. Pick one and stick it out. Do you really want to end up with spare parts for more than one car? I think Durango is a damn good car too, Serpent just felt better to me.

iclrag

Oh, i though that as far as competition went, the serpent and the dex were the top two for kits, i wouldn't mind building a kit at some point, but i want to learn the basics first. Thanks!
Another thought is that the B4.2 would be my stock class while a serpent would be built up as a mod class. On top of that my girlfriend has been showing a lot of interest in racing with me, so i'm going to let her get accustomed to the rustler, which, to this point is fairly indestructible. Once she gets the hang of it she can run the B4.2 while i run the Spyder when we both go to the track (until she graduates to her own setup if she wants), and when it's just me i can run whichever.

wrightcs77

iTrader: (551)

I would stick to one brand. Too many parts to deal with if you have 2 different manufacturers. Also, the B4.2 and Spyder are different is metric (Spyder) and imperial (AE).

Kuba

iTrader: (1)

If you going to race, don't buy the RTR, get the kit. It will be cheaper even before your first race.

Stock motor/esc is not legal for stock class (17.5T/blinky?) and not good enough for mod. Stock servo is just there to move the wheels when you hold the car in the air Not strong/fast enough for racing. Stock tires may not work at your local track, so you buying new wheels and tires (with kit you get a set or two of blank wheels). Radio is as good as that which came with Rustler, you may use this one with kit.
Just to upgrade RTR shocks to FT big bores will cost you $100.
It you really wont to save money, buy used or previous gen car like B4.1 or 22 1.0.

iclrag

That seems to make it very easy to differentiate brands, Imperial and metric are usually obviously different, visually at least.

elikeatts

iTrader: (1)

Here's a list of all the 1/10 2wd buggies I would consider to be "competitive":

Losi 22 2.0 (and 1.0)
Assoc. B4.2 (and centro)
Serpent SRX-2
Durango DEX210
X-factory x-6 cubed
Schumacher Cougar (whichever config.)
Yokomo BMAX2
Kyosho RB6
Whatever the Tamiya car is.....

Notice I listed just about all of them. Comes down to your service and which one tickles your fancy the most. I have a losi 22 2.0 and it is wonderful.

iclrag

Never once thought of schumacher as competitive! not that it's a bad brand, just not as common for me. I've been out of the hobby a long time, Thanks, i thought the RTR's were all fairly entry-level competitive.

DsWright

iTrader: (5)

Serpent and Schumacher are the best available right now. They have the most adjustability out of the box, and some adjustments that some cars just don't have, but should.

Captcha

iTrader: (9)

RTR's are ok for a novice class, something you are running just to have a good time, and be with your friends bashing about.

Just like any other form of racing, or hobby for that matter. Pay more up front as your initial investment is always going to be your biggest, and do it right once. There are however good deals to be had from buying used parts on here. Just do your research first. Research the part, research the seller, view the imagaes, then make a concious decision.

If you are buying a RTR to be a competitive racer, you will make your initial investment twice, once to buy the RTR to realize it is anything but competitive, then a second time to replace everything to be competitive.

fredswain

iTrader: (1)

Such as? The DEX210 by far has the most adjustability out of the box just by changing the included inserts. Front caster is adjustable between 15 and 35 degrees out of the box with no other parts necessary just by changing the included inserts. The steering arm has 3 different Ackermann locations. The steering can go from inline to 4mm trailing in 1mm increments out of the box just by changing the included inserts. It does rear motor and mid motor with 3 or 4 gear options for each. It allows a full sized lipo in both motor orientations. It has droop screws. The rear toe in is adjustable just by changing included inserts. You can run a ball diff or a gear diff. As with other cars, it already has more camber link locations than you'll ever need.

What adjustments do the Serpent and Schumacher have that it doesn't and should since they "have the most adjustability out of the box"?

DsWright

iTrader: (5)

you are correct, durango has the same adjustability + the MM option. I never think about the 210 because quite frankly even in the hands of some of the best drivers in my area i have never seen this car do well.

If the same drivers who can run with (and DO run with) some of the most well known drivers in the country aren't as competitive with it, it says alot to me.

The average driver, the average club racer who will build a car, put a stock setup on it with the right tires will do very well with the Serpent or the Shumacher. I can't say the same for the Durango from what i have seen of it in the midwest.

And to address your "sideways move" from a B4 to the Serpent... The parts quality of the Serpent is WAY higher than the B4. It is not even a close comparison.

fredswain

iTrader: (1)

In what ways are the parts quality better? This comment always fascinates and amuses me almost as much as the answer.

Keep in mind I have never seen a Serpent product anywhere. I have never known anyone to own or even use one aside from online.

I for one could care less what paid "pros" do.

Captcha

iTrader: (9)

Fred I have owned both a B4.2 and now the SRX-2. Fit and finish is night and day difference. The SRX-2 rivals Xray, and Kyosho fit and finish. The plastics fon't have a cheap "shine" to them that associated plastics have. The also have a nice tight fit, and stay that way after running them. My B4.2 BNIB had just a sloppy feel to it, changed the plastics to carbon, it got better, but it was limited to 2 race days. I have roughly a month on the serpent and the tolerances are just as tight as the day I built it.

DsWright

iTrader: (5)

The quality of Serpent products would be hard to understand if you haven't seen them in person. The plastics they use are some of, if not the best in the industry with the right amount of flex and durability, while maintaining a precise fit and finish.

Where this reflects on the track are things that maybe the average racer doesn't think about to often, but perhaps should.

For example, my 1 year old (nearly) 1/8th scale shows almost little to no wear on the outdrives or drivepins. I am just now looking at replacing them and the bearings in the car. What people don't think about often is that wear on your drivepins and outdrives can have a significant effect on the handling of the car during weight transfer by changing the way they bind and plunge which can inhibit the suspension from operating as smoothly as it should. Other cars i have had the outdrives sometimes didn't last as long as my diff...

Not to mention the fact that the only things that have broken on the car are 2 shock shafts and 2 screws... From an average club racer like myself that is a huge statement and cost savings.

On the 2wd i have had a very similar experience with some hard hits that would have broken any of the other cars i had.

The quality of the parts really reflects in small setup changes that when made are predictable in the outcome and consistent time and time again when you make the adjustment.

Is the B4 a competitive car? yes, Losi and others are as well. The difference is in the minor details that make a difference on the track, and perhaps in your wallet.

For full disclosure i am not affiliated in any way with these mentioned R/C companies and my opinion is based purely on my observations made racing competitively with a couple breaks since about '97.