Jonny5

iTrader: (19)

I've done it by hand with a drill, but a drill press is ideal.

The stock diff internals are fine, but make sure you take the time to sand the rings nice and flat. If you don't care to do that, BFast has a kit for the Serpent cars and its top notch. The one in my MM car is almost 8 months old and still butter smooth. If you do the BFast kit, get the carbide diff balls and ceramic thrust. Dialed!

The build is pretty smooth and straightforward. You need a 4.5mm nut driver for the ballstuds. You'll also need a 4.0 and 5.0mm for the steering rack and shock pistons- a "T" wrench is adequate.

When assembling the turnbuckles don't waste your time trying to snap the ballcup onto the ballstud. Its far easier to slide the ballcup onto the ballstud, place the conical washer below it (and ballstud washers if needed) and tighten the ballstud into its mount. This will snap the ballcup on without over stretching the cup at all.

TJames987

iTrader: (11)

thanks for the kit build tips! Also the kit build setup,, will it be a good starting point for indoor clay med-high grip bumpy?

thanks! cant wait for the UPS man to deliver the package

jkirkwood

iTrader: (8)

The stock setup is good on indoor medium to high grip. If you find you just need more traction switch the pistons to 1/6x2 front and 1/7x2 rear and try that.

Muggydude

iTrader: (92)

If anyone's interested I'm selling my buggy, as well as a custom body, upgrades, spares, and tires. All brand new, big discounts. PM me if interested! Getting out of the hobby so everything has to go.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-upgrades.html

Supertruck1

iTrader: (5)

I bought a brand new srx2 MM from my hobby shop yesterday, and locked myself in the garage last night to build it. I owned a b5m for a short time last year, and was pretty happy with it. But for this years indoor season, I wanted to try something different. Things started fine with the build, until I was assembling the rear hubs/axles. For some reason, I couldn't get the hexes on one of the axles, come to find out, the hole wasn't drilled in the center for the hex pin (-2 points). When attaching the hub to the arm, I realized I was missing one of the spacers to center it, keep in mind this whole build was on a clean white towel so parts don't roll away (-1 point). Mounting the transmission into the chassis, and I'm missing a screw (-1 point). At midnight, I decided to call it quits, with just the shocks left to do. I really hope this thing performs better on the track than it did in the QC process at the manufacturer. :-/.

TAMAK

iTrader: (29)

Write to desoto and let them know what is missing or produced wrong. Even the tiniest issue will help them. If you don't tell them, how do they know what to fix.

Supertruck1

iTrader: (5)

I will do that for sure. I just finished the shocks, something in one of the front shocks isnt machined square. When u tighten the lower cap, it makes the shaft bind. My excitement level has dwindled even more.

FastPete

iTrader: (44)

Sorry to hear about this. Yes call or write Desoto, they will get you whats missing fast. Great customer service, as things do happen. You will love Serpent products, and will be forgotten about the first time you drive it.

shagino

iTrader: (57)

Can you post a pic? I haven't heard of this one before.

Take a reamer and slightly enlarge the hole in the lower cap.

Supertruck1

iTrader: (5)

I'll try and snap a pic, but it's very hard to see because it isn't off by a lot

I tried that, didn't help, I also tried polishing the shock shaft, lubing the orings, and tried different pistons. It's either the white spacers in the bottom, or it's the shock body itself.

shagino

iTrader: (57)

Cool. I'm just a bit surprised that it would be enough to stop the hex from going on. It absolutely should be centered though.

There were a few reports of shock bodies being over-anodized. If you are talking about the white spacer between the O-rings, that's an easy check.

kwiksi

iTrader: (125)

Come and get it. Ultimate roller/parts lot.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...l#post13502673

flame56mx

iTrader: (520)

Sad days David, I am in the same boat....Nice ride bud, I gave the ad a little nudge...

TJames987

iTrader: (11)

I assembled the rear diff and tightened the diff screw to the point where the gear wont spin when holding the outdrives. The problem is when i spin the diff it seems tight and not as smooth as i would have hoped. Will breaking the diff in the car smooth the diff out? Also my kit did not come with the rubber O-ring shown in the instructions for the diff build (anyone else have this issue?) :

Thanks for any help i hope i didnt botch the build somehow

tony montana

iTrader: (76)

The orings is probably in a bag. Just look for it. I had the same problem and after searching I found it around a screw. I think others had the same problem. As far as the diff goes it depends on what you consider not feeling great. The diff needs to be pretty tight. Even with the stock diff I break every diff in the way b fast recommends. The stock diff should last a while.