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Serpent Spyder SRX-2 Mid Motor Buggy Thread

Old 03-10-2014, 11:34 AM
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Car and spares waiting at the post office. Nice.....
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Old 03-10-2014, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
Car and spares waiting at the post office. Nice.....
Enjoy!
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Old 03-10-2014, 11:40 AM
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I havent, and im pretty sure we wont be back to Batavia
Originally Posted by DsWright View Post
Had the same thing with mine. Fixed that and they feel great, you practice with it yet at batavia?
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Old 03-10-2014, 11:54 AM
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How are you guys getting your buggy to rotate more on tight, low speed corners? With brakes? Loosen diff? My buggy has a ton of rear traction and pushes entering 180 turns off throttle. I have to tap the brakes at the right spot to rotate/drift around the corner or it will lock up and spin out.

I tried shortening the rear camber links to the middle hole, removed 1-2 mm shims, and even went with the middle diff height setting. I'm not noticing any improvement after the changes.
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Old 03-10-2014, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by BOLISARIO View Post
How are you guys getting your buggy to rotate more on tight, low speed corners? With brakes? Loosen diff? My buggy has a ton of rear traction and pushes entering 180 turns off throttle. I have to tap the brakes at the right spot to rotate/drift around the corner or it will lock up and spin out.

I tried shortening the rear camber links to the middle hole, removed 1-2 mm shims, and even went with the middle diff height setting. I'm not noticing any improvement after the changes.
Front tire choice was the difference between plowing wide and turning tighter than I needed to for me anyway.
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Old 03-10-2014, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by rallyredevo View Post
Front tire choice was the difference between plowing wide and turning tighter than I needed to for me anyway.
I'm running clay Typos with 3/4 open cell front and AKA red rears. Yesterday I tried(brand new, no break in) PL Scrubs 3/4 open cell fronts and PL MC Suburbs AKA red rears. Didn't like those that much and pushed more.

I can't even break the rear loose when gunning it on the straight, let off throttle and quickly turn the steering wheel. Maybe it's my servo(Savox 1258), not sure.
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Old 03-10-2014, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
Car and spares waiting at the post office. Nice.....
Get it built! I'll be at lrh all day tomorrow.


Originally Posted by BOLISARIO View Post
How are you guys getting your buggy to rotate more on tight, low speed corners? With brakes? Loosen diff? My buggy has a ton of rear traction and pushes entering 180 turns off throttle. I have to tap the brakes at the right spot to rotate/drift around the corner or it will lock up and spin out.

I tried shortening the rear camber links to the middle hole, removed 1-2 mm shims, and even went with the middle diff height setting. I'm not noticing any improvement after the changes.
The diff height only effects on power rear grip. Put some drag brake in the car or use brakes to rotate it. I went to 2mm ballstud washers on the front inside. Also you can try to run less caster in the hubs. I'm running 2nd hole from the inside and outside on the arm front and rear. You could try 27.5 wt in the front or a softer front spring. You're running losi LF springs right? Try red in the front.
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Old 03-10-2014, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by BOLISARIO View Post
I'm running clay Typos with 3/4 open cell front and AKA red rears. Yesterday I tried(brand new, no break in) PL Scrubs 3/4 open cell fronts and PL MC Suburbs AKA red rears. Didn't like those that much and pushed more.

I can't even break the rear loose when gunning it on the straight, let off throttle and quickly turn the steering wheel. Maybe it's my servo(Savox 1258), not sure.
If you're there tomorrow you can try my car. And tires take awhile to break in at lrh.
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Old 03-10-2014, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Kellen Guthrie View Post
Get it built! I'll be at lrh all day tomorrow.




The diff height only effects on power rear grip. Put some drag brake in the car or use brakes to rotate it. I went to 2mm ballstud washers on the front inside. Also you can try to run less caster in the hubs. I'm running 2nd hole from the inside and outside on the arm front and rear. You could try 27.5 wt in the front or a softer front spring. You're running losi LF springs right? Try red in the front.
+1, I'm running 2mm under the front ballstud as well, really helped the front end bite mid corner. And drag brake is a must IMO, unless you are able to use the brakes with the same precision as the throttle (which I can't.... )
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Old 03-10-2014, 01:08 PM
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A harder rear spring can help too!
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Old 03-10-2014, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Kellen Guthrie View Post
Get it built! I'll be at lrh all day tomorrow.




The diff height only effects on power rear grip. Put some drag brake in the car or use brakes to rotate it. I went to 2mm ballstud washers on the front inside. Also you can try to run less caster in the hubs. I'm running 2nd hole from the inside and outside on the arm front and rear. You could try 27.5 wt in the front or a softer front spring. You're running losi LF springs right? Try red in the front.
Yeah I'll try those changes next. Traction was little off yesterday at LRH due to the warm, dry weather which caused the clay to dry up real quick after it gets watered.

Originally Posted by Kellen Guthrie View Post
If you're there tomorrow you can try my car. And tires take awhile to break in at lrh.
I wish I could make it again tomorrow but looks like next week(maybe Thursday) is the only available time I can go.

Originally Posted by Jonny5 View Post
+1, I'm running 2mm under the front ballstud as well, really helped the front end bite mid corner. And drag brake is a must IMO, unless you are able to use the brakes with the same precision as the throttle (which I can't.... )

How much drag brake did you add percentage-wise? I totally agree with you on the trigger finger's lack of precision.

This is my first 2wd buggy and it sure is much harder to get it to fit my driving style compared to 4wd.


Btw, has anyone had an issue with their diff bolt almost loosen up completely? I loosened my mine while testing my diff by hand when rotating the wheels in opposite directions, I felt some resistance then all of a sudden the diff loosened. I replaced the diff nut and so far after 2 packs it's held up. Stripped diff nut?
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Old 03-10-2014, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by FastPete View Post
Its great, either will work. But I would call for the fastest service.
I got off the phone with Desoto, the first guy with the accent said,"just a second' and put me on hold for 7min. Hung up, called again and got Paul on the phone. He took care of me and will be sending me a replacement front shock body tomorrow. He also confirmed that others have experienced the out of spec shock bodies as well.
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Old 03-10-2014, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by BOLISARIO View Post
Yeah I'll try those changes next. Traction was little off yesterday at LRH due to the warm, dry weather which caused the clay to dry up real quick after it gets watered.



I wish I could make it again tomorrow but looks like next week(maybe Thursday) is the only available time I can go.




How much drag brake did you add percentage-wise? I totally agree with you on the trigger finger's lack of precision.

This is my first 2wd buggy and it sure is much harder to get it to fit my driving style compared to 4wd.


Btw, has anyone had an issue with their diff bolt almost loosen up completely? I loosened my mine while testing my diff by hand when rotating the wheels in opposite directions, I felt some resistance then all of a sudden the diff loosened. I replaced the diff nut and so far after 2 packs it's held up. Stripped diff nut?
I'm generally between 20-25% drag brake, which I realize is higher than many recommend, but it works for me.
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Old 03-10-2014, 02:37 PM
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As far as drag break goes it greatly depends on the motor/rotor combination you use. A stronger rotor will require less and a faster motor should require more. Best thing to do is experiment with different amounts and see what works best for you.
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Old 03-10-2014, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by SRX2 View Post
As far as drag break goes it greatly depends on the motor/rotor combination you use. A stronger rotor will require less and a faster motor should require more. Best thing to do is experiment with different amounts and see what works best for you.
This. In addition, the track (size, sweeping vs tight corners, traction level) plays a large role in how much drag brake to dial in.
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