2LikesSerpent Spyder SRX-2 Mid Motor Buggy Thread
03-06-2014, 07:14 AM
#931
Originally Posted by elex300
Yes I run a full sized Savox 1257 servo. So far I have only tried the shorty all the way to the back. I plan on testing it some more at different locations. The first time I tried it I just tossed it in and ran. My car was slightly oversteering compared to the same setup with saddle packs that was less agressive. I did loose a tad bit of stability but I only had 24grams of balast. I now have the Serpent balast to play with next time out.
If you want to keep your bias the nearly the same as the square or saddle pack then try the shortly in the center position. It's not exactly the same but it's close.
Saddles and Square packs have slightly different distribution also. If you flip a saddle 180 deg and run the terminals near the motor you'll move the bias forward about ~.2%.
All this depends on the type and brand of batteries as well. All batteries weight slightly different and will change those numbers slightly.
03-06-2014, 07:16 AM
#932
Originally Posted by BOLISARIO
Ran the snake for the first time last night, finally! Diff,motor,slipper,trans running good so far.
Thanks Kellen for your help yesterday. Your buggy was dialed last night!
As for how the MM Spyder handled, it has a ton of corner speed and rear traction that it caught me off guard. Wow! i was taking it easy and and getting used to 2wd buggy but it was a ton of fun driving this thing, can't wait to test out more setup changes.
Truhe's Reedy setup was easy to drive and stable but it felt a little sluggish on slow tight corners that it kinda pushed a bit. I switched to a wide rear pivot with 2down/2down inserts, went the next step softer TLR LF springs(Orange/Yellow) and it helped give it a little more rotation. What other changes could I make to improve low speed cornering and still keep the high speed stability in the sweeper? Truhe was using long rear camber links(outside on hub and inside on bulkhead) plus 2mm under ballstud. Should I shorten the link and remove the shims and go with medium diff height next?
Btw, 3 of my shocks weeped a bit. I bought these to try out next: http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...hock-O-Ring-16 Hope they fit and stop the weeping.
Thanks Kellen for your help yesterday. Your buggy was dialed last night!
As for how the MM Spyder handled, it has a ton of corner speed and rear traction that it caught me off guard. Wow! i was taking it easy and and getting used to 2wd buggy but it was a ton of fun driving this thing, can't wait to test out more setup changes.
Truhe's Reedy setup was easy to drive and stable but it felt a little sluggish on slow tight corners that it kinda pushed a bit. I switched to a wide rear pivot with 2down/2down inserts, went the next step softer TLR LF springs(Orange/Yellow) and it helped give it a little more rotation. What other changes could I make to improve low speed cornering and still keep the high speed stability in the sweeper? Truhe was using long rear camber links(outside on hub and inside on bulkhead) plus 2mm under ballstud. Should I shorten the link and remove the shims and go with medium diff height next?
Btw, 3 of my shocks weeped a bit. I bought these to try out next: http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...hock-O-Ring-16 Hope they fit and stop the weeping.
03-06-2014, 09:51 AM
#934
Originally Posted by jkirkwood
If you move from say a square pack with no ballast weight and then change to a shorty mounted full back with ballast you you are changing your weight bias almost a full 1% to the rear of the vehicle. If you already had the ballast weight in with the square pack then the change is between .6-.8% change.
If you want to keep your bias the nearly the same as the square or saddle pack then try the shortly in the center position. It's not exactly the same but it's close.
Saddles and Square packs have slightly different distribution also. If you flip a saddle 180 deg and run the terminals near the motor you'll move the bias forward about ~.2%.
All this depends on the type and brand of batteries as well. All batteries weight slightly different and will change those numbers slightly.
If you want to keep your bias the nearly the same as the square or saddle pack then try the shortly in the center position. It's not exactly the same but it's close.
Saddles and Square packs have slightly different distribution also. If you flip a saddle 180 deg and run the terminals near the motor you'll move the bias forward about ~.2%.
All this depends on the type and brand of batteries as well. All batteries weight slightly different and will change those numbers slightly.
Originally Posted by jcopeland1
Totally forgot that JBRL is happening. I decided to ditch AE and go Serpent Serpent for 2 wheel and Xray for 4-wheel. Now if I can just sell my AE stuff quick enough to get my Xray ordered today lol...
03-06-2014, 10:34 AM
#935
Originally Posted by Kellen Guthrie
Jeez I thought I was meticulous. Can you even feel a .2% change in bias on the track? That's like 3 grams.
03-06-2014, 12:00 PM
#936
Originally Posted by jkirkwood
If you move from say a square pack with no ballast weight and then change to a shorty mounted full back with ballast you you are changing your weight bias almost a full 1% to the rear of the vehicle. If you already had the ballast weight in with the square pack then the change is between .6-.8% change.
If you want to keep your bias the nearly the same as the square or saddle pack then try the shortly in the center position. It's not exactly the same but it's close.
Saddles and Square packs have slightly different distribution also. If you flip a saddle 180 deg and run the terminals near the motor you'll move the bias forward about ~.2%.
All this depends on the type and brand of batteries as well. All batteries weight slightly different and will change those numbers slightly.
If you want to keep your bias the nearly the same as the square or saddle pack then try the shortly in the center position. It's not exactly the same but it's close.
Saddles and Square packs have slightly different distribution also. If you flip a saddle 180 deg and run the terminals near the motor you'll move the bias forward about ~.2%.
All this depends on the type and brand of batteries as well. All batteries weight slightly different and will change those numbers slightly.
Just bought the ballast so next time out, I'll shorten the rear camber links, remove 1-2mm shims from ballstud, and place my shorty in the middle.
03-06-2014, 12:06 PM
#937
Originally Posted by BOLISARIO
I'm going to try this out. I didn't have the ballast weight my first time out with the shorty but was running the super long rear camber links.
Just bought the ballast so next time out, I'll shorten the rear camber links, remove 1-2mm shims from ballstud, and place my shorty in the middle.
Just bought the ballast so next time out, I'll shorten the rear camber links, remove 1-2mm shims from ballstud, and place my shorty in the middle.
03-06-2014, 12:31 PM
#938
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
Well I finally had sometime to make some laps on my home track. I have the box stock setup on it. Last week this setup worked great at Mikes Hobby Shop but my home track has quite a bit less traction with some loose dirt and track temps in the upper forties. The car was very difficult to drive quickly being pushy in some places and loose most everywhere else. Some would say these are not MM conditions but the corner speed was still very good. I think it will work with the right setup.
After looking at the setup options on this buggy and surfing this thread, it appears I am going to have to do the following:
Lower the RC with the pins at 0 and 1 and maybe even run the pins narrow.
Add the Serpent ballast weight and possibly switch to saddle packs.
Due to the cold, the shocks became very stiff and really stopped working so I plan to run something like 200 in the front and will try the red springs all around.
Lastly get a tire to work!
Of course normally you would not want to make this many changes but I have a little practice time tomorrow and then a fairly large race Saturday so I don't have time to sneak up on it.
Any thoughts?
Jeff
After looking at the setup options on this buggy and surfing this thread, it appears I am going to have to do the following:
Lower the RC with the pins at 0 and 1 and maybe even run the pins narrow.
Add the Serpent ballast weight and possibly switch to saddle packs.
Due to the cold, the shocks became very stiff and really stopped working so I plan to run something like 200 in the front and will try the red springs all around.
Lastly get a tire to work!
Of course normally you would not want to make this many changes but I have a little practice time tomorrow and then a fairly large race Saturday so I don't have time to sneak up on it.
Any thoughts?
Jeff
03-06-2014, 12:34 PM
#939
Originally Posted by hopsing
Don't change everything at once..start with moving the battery and see what it does. Then either take away a shim or shorten the link. Do one thing at a time, then drive it so you can get a feel for what it does. If you change multiple things at once and the car is better or worse, you won't know what change is the cause. Always try to do one thing at a time when trying to get your car to do something different.
03-06-2014, 01:20 PM
#940
Originally Posted by jeff whiting
Well I finally had sometime to make some laps on my home track. I have the box stock setup on it. Last week this setup worked great at Mikes Hobby Shop but my home track has quite a bit less traction with some loose dirt and track temps in the upper forties. The car was very difficult to drive quickly being pushy in some places and loose most everywhere else. Some would say these are not MM conditions but the corner speed was still very good. I think it will work with the right setup.
After looking at the setup options on this buggy and surfing this thread, it appears I am going to have to do the following:
Lower the RC with the pins at 0 and 1 and maybe even run the pins narrow.
Add the Serpent ballast weight and possibly switch to saddle packs.
Due to the cold, the shocks became very stiff and really stopped working so I plan to run something like 200 in the front and will try the red springs all around.
Lastly get a tire to work!
Of course normally you would not want to make this many changes but I have a little practice time tomorrow and then a fairly large race Saturday so I don't have time to sneak up on it.
Any thoughts?
Jeff
After looking at the setup options on this buggy and surfing this thread, it appears I am going to have to do the following:
Lower the RC with the pins at 0 and 1 and maybe even run the pins narrow.
Add the Serpent ballast weight and possibly switch to saddle packs.
Due to the cold, the shocks became very stiff and really stopped working so I plan to run something like 200 in the front and will try the red springs all around.
Lastly get a tire to work!
Of course normally you would not want to make this many changes but I have a little practice time tomorrow and then a fairly large race Saturday so I don't have time to sneak up on it.
Any thoughts?
Jeff
I'd chase tires first, then work on the rest. I found my diff settings played a lot into the planted/not-planted/push situation with my RM though. Getting it just right has been interesting.
200wt oil also seems a bit light, but depends what you are running now. I am running ~350 and 300 F/R.
03-06-2014, 01:39 PM
#941
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
Originally Posted by orcadigital
So the ballast weight and saddle packs should both aid in rear traction, but probably increase the push. This may be ok, but it also may be chasing the correct tires that is causing the loose rear end. I usually try to get the back end planted, then work on finding more steering, which may be backwards, but I can race a pushy car, where one with a tail happy back end is usually an exercise in frustration.
I'd chase tires first, then work on the rest. I found my diff settings played a lot into the planted/not-planted/push situation with my RM though. Getting it just right has been interesting.
200wt oil also seems a bit light, but depends what you are running now. I am running ~350 and 300 F/R.
I'd chase tires first, then work on the rest. I found my diff settings played a lot into the planted/not-planted/push situation with my RM though. Getting it just right has been interesting.
200wt oil also seems a bit light, but depends what you are running now. I am running ~350 and 300 F/R.
Thanks
***Can't I just run 32 35's like in my on-road stuff***
03-06-2014, 01:56 PM
#942
Originally Posted by Kellen Guthrie
Jeez I thought I was meticulous. Can you even feel a .2% change in bias on the track? That's like 3 grams.
You'll like the serpent its amazing for stock (and mod too). The xray is also super nice. You never have to worry about blowing up your diffs like in the b44. But parts are a bit scarce. Durango wheels will have the same offset and hex size as xray.
You'll like the serpent its amazing for stock (and mod too). The xray is also super nice. You never have to worry about blowing up your diffs like in the b44. But parts are a bit scarce. Durango wheels will have the same offset and hex size as xray.
