Serpent Spyder SRX-2 Mid Motor Buggy Thread
#827
No it dose not, you can use the b4.2 wheels but you either need to put a spacer that fits around the axle that moves the wheel up far enough so it dose not bind aginst the steering block. You can also sand down the hex on the wheel 2mm. I believe the offset still isnt right though. Its easier just using the serpent ones or the older aka ones.
#828
Tech Elite
iTrader: (33)
Thanks for the info. Everyone really seems to like this car. Last buggy I had was a b4.2 and mid motor seems to be all the rage. I race mostly on high bite indoor clay so I'm going to go ahead and order one of these today.
Any parts I should get as spares other than arms? Haven't read about any breakage issues but haven't read the whole thread yet.
Any parts I should get as spares other than arms? Haven't read about any breakage issues but haven't read the whole thread yet.
#829
It really is a good car, It works everywhere and excells in the higher bite tracks as well, the support on here is great as well! Hope you enjoy the build if you have any questions shoot away.
#830
Tech Elite
iTrader: (61)
A friend I race with got some wheels from VP Pro for his Kyosho RB6. I checked them vs the Serpent wheels. The fronts are RB6 specific, and with the thin hex, they fit without issue on the Serpent. They are 1mm offset though, which would lead to a 2mm narrower car in the front and the handling that comes with. The rears are RB6/B4.2, and fit as well without modification, but are .3mm offset, also leading to a narrower overall width.
The issue is less if you can run many of the wheels, but if you do, understand the offset changes, and how it will affect your handling. Changing tire/compound while also changing offset will not always give you apples to apples. I have chosen to stick to Serpent wheels due to this.
Breakage has been minimal. I have broken one of the old style topdecks on my RM, and 1 ball end. A friend broke a ball end installing them on the ball itself, so those are not a bad idea. I'd also pick up the carbide diff balls. For my new MM build, I also added in the aluminum front hinge pin mount (for the durability and adjustability). Car has been strong though, and the 2 MM's that have made it out have not broken anything yet.
The issue is less if you can run many of the wheels, but if you do, understand the offset changes, and how it will affect your handling. Changing tire/compound while also changing offset will not always give you apples to apples. I have chosen to stick to Serpent wheels due to this.
Thanks for the info. Everyone really seems to like this car. Last buggy I had was a b4.2 and mid motor seems to be all the rage. I race mostly on high bite indoor clay so I'm going to go ahead and order one of these today.
Any parts I should get as spares other than arms? Haven't read about any breakage issues but haven't read the whole thread yet.
Any parts I should get as spares other than arms? Haven't read about any breakage issues but haven't read the whole thread yet.
#831
Tech Elite
iTrader: (33)
A friend I race with got some wheels from VP Pro for his Kyosho RB6. I checked them vs the Serpent wheels. The fronts are RB6 specific, and with the thin hex, they fit without issue on the Serpent. They are 1mm offset though, which would lead to a 2mm narrower car in the front and the handling that comes with. The rears are RB6/B4.2, and fit as well without modification, but are .3mm offset, also leading to a narrower overall width.
The issue is less if you can run many of the wheels, but if you do, understand the offset changes, and how it will affect your handling. Changing tire/compound while also changing offset will not always give you apples to apples. I have chosen to stick to Serpent wheels due to this.
Breakage has been minimal. I have broken one of the old style topdecks on my RM, and 1 ball end. A friend broke a ball end installing them on the ball itself, so those are not a bad idea. I'd also pick up the carbide diff balls. For my new MM build, I also added in the aluminum front hinge pin mount (for the durability and adjustability). Car has been strong though, and the 2 MM's that have made it out have not broken anything yet.
The issue is less if you can run many of the wheels, but if you do, understand the offset changes, and how it will affect your handling. Changing tire/compound while also changing offset will not always give you apples to apples. I have chosen to stick to Serpent wheels due to this.
Breakage has been minimal. I have broken one of the old style topdecks on my RM, and 1 ball end. A friend broke a ball end installing them on the ball itself, so those are not a bad idea. I'd also pick up the carbide diff balls. For my new MM build, I also added in the aluminum front hinge pin mount (for the durability and adjustability). Car has been strong though, and the 2 MM's that have made it out have not broken anything yet.
#832
The stock setup is generally a really good starting point, Billy spent a lot of time to make sure the setup was close out of the box. One of the many fine aspects to the Serpent cars.
#833
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
A friend I race with got some wheels from VP Pro for his Kyosho RB6. I checked them vs the Serpent wheels. The fronts are RB6 specific, and with the thin hex, they fit without issue on the Serpent. They are 1mm offset though, which would lead to a 2mm narrower car in the front and the handling that comes with. The rears are RB6/B4.2, and fit as well without modification, but are .3mm offset, also leading to a narrower overall width.
The issue is less if you can run many of the wheels, but if you do, understand the offset changes, and how it will affect your handling. Changing tire/compound while also changing offset will not always give you apples to apples. I have chosen to stick to Serpent wheels due to this.
Breakage has been minimal. I have broken one of the old style topdecks on my RM, and 1 ball end. A friend broke a ball end installing them on the ball itself, so those are not a bad idea. I'd also pick up the carbide diff balls. For my new MM build, I also added in the aluminum front hinge pin mount (for the durability and adjustability). Car has been strong though, and the 2 MM's that have made it out have not broken anything yet.
The issue is less if you can run many of the wheels, but if you do, understand the offset changes, and how it will affect your handling. Changing tire/compound while also changing offset will not always give you apples to apples. I have chosen to stick to Serpent wheels due to this.
Breakage has been minimal. I have broken one of the old style topdecks on my RM, and 1 ball end. A friend broke a ball end installing them on the ball itself, so those are not a bad idea. I'd also pick up the carbide diff balls. For my new MM build, I also added in the aluminum front hinge pin mount (for the durability and adjustability). Car has been strong though, and the 2 MM's that have made it out have not broken anything yet.
That's odd....I've measured the backspacing on my AKA wheels (both the Hexlite and Evo versions) and a set of Serpent wheels, and the offset difference for the front I got was about .5 mm (which would be about 1mm narrower overall front width with the AKA wheels) and the difference for the rears was well under the .3mm difference you measured (I got more like .03 mm - pretty much neglible effect if you measured the overall width with tires mounted). Maybe the VP Pro wheels are different? The AKA wheels are AE/KYO fitments for the front and AE/KYO/LOS for the rear which is typical across PL and JC wheels as well.
That being said, running non-Serpent fronts will get you a little narrower front end (about 1mm according to my measurments of AKA wheels vs Serpent wheels) which can effect handling slightly. Most people probably wouldn't even feel the difference. The rears aren't different enough that anyone would probably notice. And being that alot of guys on here are running non-serpent wheels following the setups given shouldn't be an issue.
#834
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
This serpent is arguably the best straight out of the box car and it's very durable. Like he said on springs the serpent rears are longer than ae or losi. The max ride height I was able to get out of ae springs was 23mm in the rear. If you want to run AE springs try white/white. For losi try orange/white (LF springs).
#836
Tech Elite
iTrader: (61)
That's odd....I've measured the backspacing on my AKA wheels (both the Hexlite and Evo versions) and a set of Serpent wheels, and the offset difference for the front I got was about .5 mm (which would be about 1mm narrower overall front width with the AKA wheels) and the difference for the rears was well under the .3mm difference you measured (I got more like .03 mm - pretty much neglible effect if you measured the overall width with tires mounted). Maybe the VP Pro wheels are different? The AKA wheels are AE/KYO fitments for the front and AE/KYO/LOS for the rear which is typical across PL and JC wheels as well.
That being said, running non-Serpent fronts will get you a little narrower front end (about 1mm according to my measurments of AKA wheels vs Serpent wheels) which can effect handling slightly. Most people probably wouldn't even feel the difference. The rears aren't different enough that anyone would probably notice. And being that alot of guys on here are running non-serpent wheels following the setups given shouldn't be an issue.
That being said, running non-Serpent fronts will get you a little narrower front end (about 1mm according to my measurments of AKA wheels vs Serpent wheels) which can effect handling slightly. Most people probably wouldn't even feel the difference. The rears aren't different enough that anyone would probably notice. And being that alot of guys on here are running non-serpent wheels following the setups given shouldn't be an issue.
Welcome to the Serpent fun!
#837
Tech Elite
iTrader: (110)
Just an FYI for those who run Savox 1257's. To achieve equal LF and RT EPA go with a 3.5mm gap on the steering link. With your radio trimmed out to 0 offset install the servo horn 1 click to the right of center (If your sitting in front of the car). With an Airtronics radio im getting 126 and 126 at full lock. Hope this is helpful.
#838
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
Was messing around with serpent springs and losi springs tonight. Both have their advantages and disadvantages. On a high bite clay track with minimal dust the serpent pink front and rear combo works well with a setup close to cush on petitrc. Got a chance to try the losi springs tonight ran LF orange front and white rear. Both spring combos work really well. Id suggest giving these a try if your track has similar conditions.
Durability so far is 100% only part broken was a caster block but I wasnt driving
Dont forget to grab some carbide diff balls or a b fast diff kit if you havent yet. You won't be disappointed
Durability so far is 100% only part broken was a caster block but I wasnt driving
Dont forget to grab some carbide diff balls or a b fast diff kit if you havent yet. You won't be disappointed
#840