TMS-99

iTrader: (1)

Come talk to me

flame56mx

iTrader: (520)

So? Did you find what the issue was?

Kellen Guthrie

iTrader: (2)

Well after stripping an idler gear in my Serpent last Wednesday I had to resort back to my 22 2.0. It was very depressing. I went from easily being top 5 in mod buggy with my serpent to missing the bump in the B main with my 22 2.0 on Friday. Somehow I managed to pull off a win Saturday with some smart driving and low grip conditions (switched to RM). Can't wait to run the Serpent again this weekend and make the AE drivers cry.

BOLISARIO

iTrader: (57)

Sorry for the lack of updates, real life(work) took over for now, but i did manage to find one cause of my problems: One half stripped idler gear due to forgetting to install an insert on one side of the gearbox. brain fart number 2. I wonder if my motor is still bad due to that weird high pitched sound under load and a perfectly fine reverse. Unfortunately, my spare parts are in bound and arriving Friday so I'm stuck waiting to drive this buggy for the first time. Plus my ball diff is gritty now and waiting for more B Fast carbide balls with Avid carbide thrust bearing(instead of the ceramic Casper thrusts) for a slightly easier and more forgiving tuning window.

shagino

iTrader: (57)

Ouch!

Take the pinion off and try it.

Stealth_RT

iTrader: (5)

I've been told, but haven't tried, that the 22 idler gear will fit the Spyder.

rider313

iTrader: (94)

It's simple why it worked in reverse. In forward the top shaft pushes on the idler and it goes away and strips. On reverse the idle gear gets pulled into the the top shaft and it appears to work.

flame56mx

iTrader: (520)

I had the same thoughts on that Dan..

vr6cj

iTrader: (124)

anyone try any other bodies on this thing other then the stock one?

mxracer71

i have some leaky shocks, i know serpent updated theres and i know xrings will fit also,anyone try the 22 or ae seals? i have some on order but in case we get in a bind and was curious if the others will work as well.

Chris K.

iTrader: (1)

Someone on here recommended putting a shim (I used a .5mm) in between the o-ring and the spacer because mine weren't leaking per se, but definately weeping. I would consider leaking as having to add oil during a race day, and mine would not require that, but would collect dirt around the bottom collar. I added in the shim and they are rock solid no drip shocks.

One other note I have is I was having a problem with my top nut coming loose on the shock shaft, and I was using lock tight, which probably also contributed to my weeping shocks. I sanded down the washer that goes under the piston, which added enough thread to resolve the problem.

Chris

CHogle

iTrader: (7)

Usually when tightening the nut on the top of the piston i will get the nut finger tight and build the shock the rest of the way. Then right before adding oil i grab my nut driver and tighten as much as i can while holding the plastic shock bottom. haven't needed to use locktite and have had zero issues.

Benzaah

iTrader: (24)

Any reason why? Billy's body designs are copied by everyone anyway. Your only going to end up with a copy of something excellent!

DsWright

iTrader: (5)

Have my kit, middle of a move though and don't have my R/C space setup yet at the new house.

Driving me crazy! the only thing worse than waiting for a new kit to arrive, is staring at it unable to build it lol!

Maybe by next weekend i will have it done, and hopefully i can find some Clay typos by then as well! Been backordered for a month lol.

jkirkwood

iTrader: (8)

That is truth. Billy should send a few people a bill.