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Serpent Spyder SRX-2 Mid Motor Buggy Thread

Old 02-06-2014, 10:19 PM
  #586  
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My post was deleted? Anyway FYI, Associated spring cups fit the serpent shock rod end, but they don't snap in nicely like the serpent ones. But at least I can finish my buggy build. Can't wait to run it!

Edit: Post was not deleted. I put it in the wrong thread lol. Basically I got 3 short and 1 long spring cups, so was wondering if I could just Dremmel the long one, but ended up using AE long cups. They fit reasonably well till I can order Serpent cups.

Last edited by rallyredevo; 02-07-2014 at 09:29 AM.
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Old 02-06-2014, 11:18 PM
  #587  
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Weird, I took a lot of extra time to custom fit everything in the suspension (sanding, reaming, dry film lube, etc.) so that my suspension was loose, free, and flappy. But when I put my shocks on, it's all kinds of bound up. What did I do wrong?

Plastic bushings aren't crushed, top of shocks have free play, bottom shock screws are back 1/2 turn from tight and move freely when top of shock is disconnected.

But I can set it down with batteries in, and it maintains almost full droop unless I press on it.
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Old 02-06-2014, 11:28 PM
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hold it up and drop it on the tires from 6 or 8 inches up and see what it does
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Old 02-06-2014, 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by rallyredevo View Post
Weird, I took a lot of extra time to custom fit everything in the suspension (sanding, reaming, dry film lube, etc.) so that my suspension was loose, free, and flappy. But when I put my shocks on, it's all kinds of bound up. What did I do wrong?

Plastic bushings aren't crushed, top of shocks have free play, bottom shock screws are back 1/2 turn from tight and move freely when top of shock is disconnected.

But I can set it down with batteries in, and it maintains almost full droop unless I press on it.
Yeah it was the same way for me when i first built it. I just wanted to run though. Eventually everything broke in and now it's all free. I think it's the molded pistons. They kind of rub on the shock body.
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Old 02-06-2014, 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by BOLISARIO View Post
What's the consensus on receiver wires: do you go old school and route them through the antenna tube or conceal under the body with the other wires?
It's all just preference whatever looks the cleanest. I personally like antenna tubes. It reminds me that i'm driving toy cars and not to punch the 8th scale beginner driver next to me that just broke my car in half.
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Old 02-06-2014, 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Kellen Guthrie View Post
Yeah it was the same way for me when i first built it. I just wanted to run though. Eventually everything broke in and now it's all free. I think it's the molded pistons. They kind of rub on the shock body.
Thanks for the suggestion. It's always a likely candidate, but I used Emery cloth on the outside of the pistons until the action was smooth. I did free it up completely just now such that it settles to the same height though.

For one I replaced the plastic nuts with metal ones so I could keep them backed out quite a bit with loctite. Flipped the front rod end the opposite way of step 33, added 2mm spacer to the bottom of the rear shocks, and it's all good now.

Maybe after running it a while I can put it back, but I hate waiting for cars to break in because you never know how to tune in the meantime.
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Old 02-07-2014, 05:51 AM
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Originally Posted by BOLISARIO View Post
What's the consensus on receiver wires: do you go old school and route them through the antenna tube or conceal under the body with the other wires?
I don't like the risk of an antenna getting broke off, so I like hiding it on the chassis.
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Old 02-07-2014, 05:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Kellen Guthrie View Post
Yeah it was the same way for me when i first built it. I just wanted to run though. Eventually everything broke in and now it's all free. I think it's the molded pistons. They kind of rub on the shock body.
I agree its the molded pistons. Even when the molded pistons feels smooth on the bench they still have more drag when side loaded than a machined piston made from derlin does.
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Old 02-07-2014, 06:36 AM
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Also check the bushing in the lower shock eyelet. They are very tight when new. If you tighten the screw per normal the shocks will bind. J. Kirkwood actually found the issue for me. Run the rear lower eyelets loos till the bushing break in.
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Old 02-07-2014, 06:40 AM
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I saw Amain has serpent pistons that are 2,3,4 hole....are they machined or molded? I assume machined but there is nothing I see to say they are or are not machined.
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Old 02-07-2014, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by lovell View Post
I saw Amain has serpent pistons that are 2,3,4 hole....are they machined or molded? I assume machined but there is nothing I see to say they are or are not machined.
The white ones are machined and good qualify, but conical. I prefer a flat pistons to conical 90% of the time myself.
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Old 02-07-2014, 07:12 AM
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I saw Amain has serpent pistons that are 2,3,4 hole....are they machined or molded? I assume machined but there is nothing I see to say they are or are not machined.
The only molded pistons are the ones that come on the tree. The delrin versions are machined.
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Old 02-07-2014, 07:13 AM
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2 seconds 2 slow, must be cause I'm a rear motor guy, lol.
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Old 02-07-2014, 09:23 AM
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Ah ok, that makes sense the tight bushings are the culprit. They seemed loose after I put dry film lube on, but when installed probably they bind when pressure is applied at an angle. And good point about pistons binding on the car even if perfect on the bench.

What I did was change the angles of the shocks at the bottom (2mm spacer rear, flipped bushing front) and replaced the top plastic nuts with metal ones so I could loctite them very loose.
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Old 02-07-2014, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by jkirkwood View Post
The white ones are machined and good qualify, but conical. I prefer a flat pistons to conical 90% of the time myself.
Do they make flat pistons? And they're drilled out to 1.1 mm right?
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