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Serpent Spyder SRX-2 Mid Motor Buggy Thread

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Serpent Spyder SRX-2 Mid Motor Buggy Thread

Old 10-04-2015, 07:02 AM
  #2176  
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Originally Posted by dynastorm View Post
i checked on the exoteck website and dont see the aluminium diff nut listed under the srx2?

also my oem diff nut is also slipping in the plastic on a brand new diff kit. at this point I cant tighten it and I now cant even get the nut out. it just spins and i cant loosen it. any ideas on how to remove it with damaging the rest of the new parts?
ok well I finally got the diff screw and nut out. now im going back together, when I tighten the diff do I tighten the screw so that the plastic diff nut bottoms out in the cup so that there is no space between the ears of the plastic nut holder and the slits in the cup?
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Old 10-04-2015, 07:55 AM
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The exotek nut for the RB6 works, use some blue thread lock on it. I had to take a dremel with a new cut-off wheel and slot it and then use a screwdriver to get it out. This happened to me on a brand new build as well.
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Old 10-04-2015, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by GrandeGixxer View Post
The exotek nut for the RB6 works, use some blue thread lock on it. I had to take a dremel with a new cut-off wheel and slot it and then use a screwdriver to get it out. This happened to me on a brand new build as well.
ok Ill give that a shot, I have emailed both serpent and desoto racing to see if either of them can help me out as far as a replacement as this was a brand new complete diff.
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Old 10-04-2015, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by dynastorm View Post
also my oem diff nut is also slipping in the plastic on a brand new diff kit. at this point I cant tighten it and I now cant even get the nut out. it just spins and i cant loosen it. any ideas on how to remove it with damaging the rest of the new parts?
Originally Posted by dynastorm View Post
ok well I finally got the diff screw and nut out. now im going back together, when I tighten the diff do I tighten the screw so that the plastic diff nut bottoms out in the cup so that there is no space between the ears of the plastic nut holder and the slits in the cup?
Originally Posted by dynastorm View Post
I have emailed both serpent and desoto racing to see if either of them can help me out as far as a replacement as this was a brand new complete diff.
I'm confused at what you mean here. In the first post, you say that the diff nut is spinning in the plastic? I've never heard of that issue but I'll give you benefit of the doubt. Then in the second post, you say that you can tighten the diff. If the nut was stripped in the plastic and spinning, there's no way you'd be able to tighten it.

Not quite sure what the problem here is...
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Old 10-04-2015, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by shagino View Post
I'm confused at what you mean here. In the first post, you say that the diff nut is spinning in the plastic? I've never heard of that issue but I'll give you benefit of the doubt. Then in the second post, you say that you can tighten the diff. If the nut was stripped in the plastic and spinning, there's no way you'd be able to tighten it.

Not quite sure what the problem here is...

sorry for the confusion. the diff nut spinning in the plastic holder is a known issue from the past but I guess it was never fixed (luck of the draw i guess). I ended up using a dremel to cut a slit through the plastic into the metal nut and i was able to get it out. I ended up using an old diff nut that I had so I could now tighten up the diff.
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Old 10-04-2015, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by dynastorm View Post
sorry for the confusion. the diff nut spinning in the plastic holder is a known issue from the past but I guess it was never fixed (luck of the draw i guess). I ended up using a dremel to cut a slit through the plastic into the metal nut and i was able to get it out. I ended up using an old diff nut that I had so I could now tighten up the diff.
Ah, gotcha. I follow this thread and the FB pretty regularly and I've never heard of this issue. It must have been cranked down really tight to get it spinning like that.
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Old 10-04-2015, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by shagino View Post
Ah, gotcha. I follow this thread and the FB pretty regularly and I've never heard of this issue. It must have been cranked down really tight to get it spinning like that.
to be honest I was only able to get like 4-5 turns on it before it started spinning. so that was the reason for my other question. how far should the plastic nut come to bottoming out on the slits in the hub? if I look into the hub i can see that the screw threads are just about poking out of the plastic. pretty much flush. is that too tight?
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Old 10-05-2015, 01:47 AM
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Originally Posted by dynastorm View Post
to be honest I was only able to get like 4-5 turns on it before it started spinning. so that was the reason for my other question. how far should the plastic nut come to bottoming out on the slits in the hub? if I look into the hub i can see that the screw threads are just about poking out of the plastic. pretty much flush. is that too tight?
The screw should come out of the nut about 1mm or a little less. I would tighten the screw fully until it bottoms out but not over tighten it.
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Old 10-05-2015, 04:08 AM
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I just built my car a couple of months ago and had the same issue. If you go a couple pages back others recommended the RB6 nut.
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Old 10-05-2015, 02:28 PM
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Wow! That's crazy guys. I'd contact Serpent for sure but I don't think it's a widespread issue.
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Old 10-08-2015, 04:56 AM
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I'm having a brain fart moment here. On the rear hinge pin holders with the inserts, when they 2 down does that mean the number is down or the hole is down. Thanks guys
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Old 10-08-2015, 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by bkuff-losi View Post
I'm having a brain fart moment here. On the rear hinge pin holders with the inserts, when they 2 down does that mean the number is down or the hole is down. Thanks guys
Hole down. There's an arrow right above the hole but it's harder to see. I just go by the hole instead but the arrow points down too.
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Old 10-08-2015, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by shagino View Post
Hole down. There's an arrow right above the hole but it's harder to see. I just go by the hole instead but the arrow points down too.
Thank you for response here and on fb
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Old 10-08-2015, 05:17 PM
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i searched and cant find the answer. is it possible to buy just the sock rod ends other than buying the complete $20 set? I see they have hem listed but I think they are for the sct and not the srx2 as they are listed as "long"

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...yU0aAh0J8P8HAQ
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Old 10-09-2015, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by dynastorm View Post
i searched and cant find the answer. is it possible to buy just the sock rod ends other than buying the complete $20 set? I see they have hem listed but I think they are for the sct and not the srx2 as they are listed as "long"

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...yU0aAh0J8P8HAQ
I'm not sure. I ended up buying the rod ends and cups for the B5M and have been using them. The cups have varying height, and while the two lowest height cups don't fit at all it's still a good value for the remainder.

You can get the ends w/ pivot balls for under $6, and cups for for under $6 as well.

Note the AE cups are a pretty tight fit on the SRX2 ends because of the SRX2 key/notch that prevents the cup from spinning. In other words, the slot on the AE cup is small enough for the shock shaft to fit through, but not quite enough for the SRX2 notch - if that makes any sense. However, I don't see a reason that the SRX2 cups wouldn't fit on an AE end.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...c91448/p275222
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...c91310/p239779
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