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Serpent Spyder SRX-2 Mid Motor Buggy Thread

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Serpent Spyder SRX-2 Mid Motor Buggy Thread

Old 08-07-2015, 07:28 PM
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Any suitable substitutes for the diff nut? The metal insert decided to start spinning inside the plastic. Is there a gear diff option for this car?
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Old 08-07-2015, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by GrandeGixxer View Post
Any suitable substitutes for the diff nut? The metal insert decided to start spinning inside the plastic. Is there a gear diff option for this car?
Gear diff from Serpent...yes.

Aluminum diff nut from Exoteck.....yes
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Old 08-08-2015, 03:41 AM
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Awesome, thank you!

Anyone tried the gear diff and like it?
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Old 08-19-2015, 10:42 AM
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I just purchased a used MM that should be here early next week. I'm planning on Mod on a large outdoor red clay track that has low/medium bite. The track is bumpy due to 1/8 buggies running on it. I'm looking for a starting setup.

I've been running a RM on the track, but I tried a guys B5M a few weeks back and couldn't believe how hooked up his car was. He claimed that it was a box stock setup.

Thanks for the help.

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Old 08-19-2015, 03:15 PM
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Hallo Csari77,

I'm running the last setup posted bei Hupo from the Austrian nationals with some small modifications. It's the best I've figured out so far, but I never got my spyder mm as fast as the b5m. I think that the heavy aluminium chassis plate in the asso makes it this stable...

Greetings

Stephan
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Old 08-19-2015, 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Csaari77 View Post
I just purchased a used MM that should be here early next week. I'm planning on Mod on a large outdoor red clay track that has low/medium bite. The track is bumpy due to 1/8 buggies running on it. I'm looking for a starting setup.

I've been running a RM on the track, but I tried a guys B5M a few weeks back and couldn't believe how hooked up his car was. He claimed that it was a box stock setup.

Thanks for the help.
Run it stock. I don't stray to far from the kit setup running on our outdoor track or our indoor track. If the b5m was hooked up stock the serpent will be deadly
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Old 08-20-2015, 06:51 AM
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Thanks for the input. I'll give it a try stock to see how it works. I also found an outdoor setup from Jared Kirkwood on the FB page that I'm going to try. I'm looking forward to getting this car and hoping it's even better than the RM I've been running.
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Old 08-20-2015, 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by GrandeGixxer View Post
Awesome, thank you!

Anyone tried the gear diff and like it?
i run on grippy carpet with the gear diff and there its much better than balldiff
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Old 08-21-2015, 11:42 AM
  #2139  
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I used the gear diff for a year (outdoor) but never liked the feeling during acceleration (no locking). Then I tried the ball diff again with carbide balls and it works perfectly. Never had such a smooth and stable diff ever.

The only problems are the outdrives/bones. They are not hard enough to deal with a high grip outdoor track.

Another question: How is it possible to use the outer damper-holes on the front wishbones? Their is not enough place to mount the dampers. And I also figured out problems when using the outer holes on the front wheel carriers, because outer wheel is touching the spherical head during cornering.

Greetings

Stephan
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Old 08-21-2015, 05:19 PM
  #2140  
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Originally Posted by BigInJapan View Post
i run on grippy carpet with the gear diff and there its much better than balldiff
Gear diff on carpet is a must. I prefer a ball on dirt though.

Originally Posted by Flyinggekko View Post
The only problems are the outdrives/bones. They are not hard enough to deal with a high grip outdoor track.

Another question: How is it possible to use the outer damper-holes on the front wishbones? Their is not enough place to mount the dampers. And I also figured out problems when using the outer holes on the front wheel carriers, because outer wheel is touching the spherical head during cornering.

Greetings

Stephan
You should look into the slide drive option if you are going through outdrives/dogbones.

I can't follow what you are asking here.
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Old 08-22-2015, 06:51 AM
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Ok I will try to explain my problems again (english is not my native language )

1. problem: There are two holes on the front wishbones for mounting the balljoints of the dampers. But the balljoints are to large to use the outer holes.

2. problem: There are two holes for mounting the balljoints on the front c-hubs. But when I'm using the outer hole, the pivotball is touching the outer wheel during hard cornering. Even when I'm using the inner hole, I've to use another pivotball without the hexagonal head.

And I've a third question:What's the weight of the brass-ballast which is mounted under the motor. This peace of weight costs about 50€ in Austria and I'm to greedy to buy it.

And last but not least: Has anybody here already used the sc-chubs for simulating straight wishbones and can explain the effects? Is Serpent planing to offer real straight wishbones?

I've already thought about using the slide-drive, but it is pretty expensive and I will wait until next year, when I'm building a new srx2 mm. The problem is, that my local track is build out of mixture of clay and concrete. The load was already to high for the plastic gears, but since I'm using the metal ones, the outdrives and driveshafts get sharpened very hard.

Thanks for your answers.

Greetings

Stephan
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Old 08-22-2015, 06:54 AM
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I am using the SMC 30 gram brass weights that go in the battery compartment. They were only around $12 I think.
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Old 08-22-2015, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by shagino View Post
Gear diff on carpet is a must. I prefer a ball on dirt though.



You should look into the slide drive option if you are going through outdrives/dogbones.

I can't follow what you are asking here.
does anyone have any links to pics of the slide drive installed?

the pic on amain are disassembled and not too clear on how they fit
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Old 08-22-2015, 09:38 PM
  #2144  
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The slide drives look just like the MIP version, only with metal pills. They do increase the life of the outdrives.

To use the outer hole on the front arm, you need to turn the shock end around (the shoulder on the ball should be toward the back). If you are worried about the turnbuckle rubbing on the spring, you can space out the stud 1mm on the c-hub.
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Old 08-23-2015, 04:30 AM
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Hey guys,

If you want good info , connect on the Facebook page. People will be more responsive and they have setups there, plus Billy or someone will respond to you.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/SerpentSpyder/
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