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Serpent Spyder SRX-2 Mid Motor Buggy Thread

Old 03-19-2015, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by DIRT DIGGER View Post
Looking for forward bite. Gona try a few more things and if not it's going for sale gona try a Losi. If anyone's looking to buy one let me know it's like new ran few times. Thanks
Rear hubs forward.
.05 toe in on rear hubs.
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Old 03-19-2015, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by itsjusme View Post
Rear hubs forward.
.05 toe in on rear hubs.
I have that now I'm running fast stock setup with a 10.5
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Old 03-19-2015, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by DIRT DIGGER View Post
I have that now I'm running fast stock setup with a 10.5
Go to rear brass block with 0 up in front 2 down in back.
That setup is for a stock motor
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Old 03-19-2015, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by itsjusme View Post
Go to rear brass block with 0 up in front 2 down in back.
That setup is for a stock motor
thanks i sent u a pm
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Old 03-19-2015, 01:48 PM
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In addition to adding weight (which you don't always want to do in stock), you can also adjust/reduce anti-squat, make the rear end softer, or remove some shock limiters from your front shocks for more weight transfer to the rear under acceleration.
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Old 03-19-2015, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by goehm View Post
In addition to adding weight (which you don't always want to do in stock), you can also adjust/reduce anti-squat, make the rear end softer, or remove some shock limiters from your front shocks for more weight transfer to the rear under acceleration.
im running mod
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Old 03-19-2015, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by DIRT DIGGER View Post
im running mod
I think the 10.5 gave that away. goehm was saying stock because of the setup you are using.

Have you tried letting someone else at the track drive your car? Because of the questions that you keep asking, I really think it's driving style as opposed to setup. I'm not sure switching to Losi will solve your problems. Good luck whichever way that you end up going.
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Old 03-19-2015, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by shagino View Post
I think the 10.5 gave that away. goehm was saying stock because of the setup you are using.

Have you tried letting someone else at the track drive your car? Because of the questions that you keep asking, I really think it's driving style as opposed to setup. I'm not sure switching to Losi will solve your problems. Good luck whichever way that you end up going.
He sold his B5M to get this car because traction was not right. And the losi will be MUCH worse.
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Old 03-19-2015, 04:40 PM
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Totally agree the losi will be way more loose.
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Old 03-19-2015, 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
He sold his B5M to get this car because traction was not right. And the losi will be MUCH worse.
thats funny right there
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Old 03-20-2015, 04:13 AM
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Originally Posted by hacker View Post
thats funny right there
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Old 03-20-2015, 05:24 AM
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Dirt Digger,

You seem to be convinced that the buggy or the setup is holding you back. You mentioned in a PM that you have a race tonight. Find your fastest race tonight and look at your fast lap, top 5/10/20. Compare that against the best run tonight.

If you are off by more than 1 second in either fast lap or top 5, no setup change or brand is going to make that up for you.

Here's something that Billy Easton said on the FB page a while back that I think may help you:
I played this game the other day..Forza 4..... The game is obviously built around, what is and is not possible by the fundamentals and laws of inertia,gravity,traction and so on.. Anyway, the car i was playing never seemed to turn, and, until i approached the turns at the proper speed, there was no way this car was turning.. I guess, what im trying to say in general, and not necessarily directed towards you. A racing car has its limits no matter what we expect it should do.. You have to drive within the limits of the car in order to turn fast laps.. Just like the game, blowing turns and missing apex's translate slower lap times, against, braking the car,decelerating at the correct time, hitting the apex and throttling the car off the turn..RC cars are alot the same, you simply need to learn the limits of your car, and then drive within those boundaries.
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Old 03-20-2015, 05:38 AM
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Originally Posted by shagino View Post
Dirt Digger,

You seem to be convinced that the buggy or the setup is holding you back. You mentioned in a PM that you have a race tonight. Find your fastest race tonight and look at your fast lap, top 5/10/20. Compare that against the best run tonight.

If you are off by more than 1 second in either fast lap or top 5, no setup change or brand is going to make that up for you.

Here's something that Billy Easton said on the FB page a while back that I think may help you:
I played this game the other day..Forza 4..... The game is obviously built around, what is and is not possible by the fundamentals and laws of inertia,gravity,traction and so on.. Anyway, the car i was playing never seemed to turn, and, until i approached the turns at the proper speed, there was no way this car was turning.. I guess, what im trying to say in general, and not necessarily directed towards you. A racing car has its limits no matter what we expect it should do.. You have to drive within the limits of the car in order to turn fast laps.. Just like the game, blowing turns and missing apex's translate slower lap times, against, braking the car,decelerating at the correct time, hitting the apex and throttling the car off the turn..RC cars are alot the same, you simply need to learn the limits of your car, and then drive within those boundaries.
.

Well said thank you sir for the great advice. Not like others with there dumb ass comments.
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Old 03-20-2015, 05:50 AM
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Questions?? Mt Set up for Low Bite Tracks

Gents,

My current set up for low bite tracks, needs a bit more on power steering, so when you viewed my set up can you please advise.

Front.
0 deg caster.
std front bulkhead.
stock caster block.
Spindle shims all up.
Camber link on middle hole inboard no shims and outer hole outboard
Opt 3 Ackerman arm. 1mm bump steer

Shocks
2x 1.7mm pistons
35wt Ae oil
Blue Springs
Rest as per kit.
Wishbones outer and number 2 on tower.

Rear.
Stock rear upright. 0.5 out board toe in. Hole C(Outer hole), spaced to rear.
Camber link in point 1(longest arm possible) no shims.
Pills FR number 2 up and wide, RR number 1 down wide.
Rear roll bar fitted 1.5mm

Shocks
2 x 1.6mm pistons
27.5 wt AE oil
Astro Orange
Rest as per kit.
Wishbones outer and number 3 on tower.

Wing mount Stock.
1.5 degree camber front and rear
Ride height 19mm front, 20mm rear

Ballast,
50 grams under shorty, all the way forward.
50 grams under receiver and ESC
20 grams on top of servo.

Diff height med.

Any help you can give is appreciated.
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Old 03-20-2015, 06:02 AM
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Originally Posted by DIRT DIGGER View Post
Well said thank you sir for the great advice. Not like others with there dumb ass comments.
No problem. Keep in mind that everyone is willing to help. We only know what you tell us and you continue to ask for setup changes on how to gain one thing without saying how the buggy is performing in other areas of the track.It was frustrating seeing you ask for the same thing and expect different results. There's no magic bullet here.

That's why letting a fast driver drive my buggy was so helpful to me. It showed me that it wasn't the setup. It was my driving style. That left me with, change my driving style or change the setup to suit my driving style.
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