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Serpent Spyder SRX-2 Mid Motor Buggy Thread

Old 11-09-2014, 10:27 AM
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I seem to get better balance with saddles or brick than I do with shorties. Car seems to jump better with more weight. Shorties seem better in the center (kit) position. However driving styles vary. Agood way to learn about chassis tuning is to center the shorty pack and try moving your camber links to see what feel you get.
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Old 11-10-2014, 06:33 AM
  #1622  
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So is the consensus that when running mod on a med/high to high bite track that using the rear brass weight is beneficial?
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Old 11-10-2014, 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Maxxingout View Post
So is the consensus that when running mod on a med/high to high bite track that using the rear brass weight is beneficial?
I have not tried it but I have two ideas to test this week. I will tell everyone if they work.
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Old 11-10-2014, 06:44 AM
  #1624  
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Originally Posted by Maxxingout View Post
So is the consensus that when running mod on a med/high to high bite track that using the rear brass weight is beneficial?
I run mod on a med bite covered clay track and am having great success with the car, the three things that i think help the most are cutting the rear brace(turnbuckle style is even better) and just having weight under the battery with the battery all the way back. I used soft lead that i cut the same size as a shorty and just placed it under the battery. And a gear dif with 7k, i was a ball dif commando until i tried the gear dif and no matter what the conditions have been i have been a half second quicker with the gear dif! Not to mention that the Serpent gear dif is a work of art! Corner exit and straight line bite is ridiculous, with a 9.5 and the slipper set tight it will wheel stand on every exit. So i actually turned down the punch and set the slipper so now i can just punch it and not have to feather the throttle. Tire of choice here is Deja Vu SS, m4 suburbs and pretty much any dirtweb,scrub type front tire will work.
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Old 11-10-2014, 07:12 AM
  #1625  
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx View Post
I run mod on a med bite covered clay track and am having great success with the car, the three things that i think help the most are cutting the rear brace(turnbuckle style is even better) and just having weight under the battery with the battery all the way back. I used soft lead that i cut the same size as a shorty and just placed it under the battery. And a gear dif with 7k, i was a ball dif commando until i tried the gear dif and no matter what the conditions have been i have been a half second quicker with the gear dif! Not to mention that the Serpent gear dif is a work of art! Corner exit and straight line bite is ridiculous, with a 9.5 and the slipper set tight it will wheel stand on every exit. So i actually turned down the punch and set the slipper so now i can just punch it and not have to feather the throttle. Tire of choice here is Deja Vu SS, m4 suburbs and pretty much any dirtweb,scrub type front tire will work.
I have to give the gear diff a shot.
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Old 11-10-2014, 07:30 AM
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yeah, that's the 1st time I've heard someone boast a gear diff in place of a ball diff in a 2wd. Makes you wanna order 1 up, lol.

I'll be making a rear weight soon so that's why I asked.

With my rear wheel srx2, running m4 ions and a 8.5, at time I'd have a heck of a time keeping the front end down. At 1 point I was wheeling down 50% of the straight.
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Old 11-10-2014, 07:30 AM
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I have not tried it but I have two ideas to test this week. I will tell everyone if they work.
Looking forward to it.
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Old 11-10-2014, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Maxxingout View Post
So is the consensus that when running mod on a med/high to high bite track that using the rear brass weight is beneficial?
Neither Brent nor I are running any extra weights in our mm buggies at ARCs. I am running a square pack, but Brent is running a shorty. But then, he's a freak of nature behind the wheel and can drive anything fast. The aluminum front bulkhead is nice both for durability and a bit of extra weight in the front. And I am still using the sweet machined aluminum rear bulkhead/camber link plate. But that adds a few grams at most.
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Old 11-10-2014, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Maxxingout View Post
yeah, that's the 1st time I've heard someone boast a gear diff in place of a ball diff in a 2wd. Makes you wanna order 1 up, lol.

I'll be making a rear weight soon so that's why I asked.

With my rear wheel srx2, running m4 ions and a 8.5, at time I'd have a heck of a time keeping the front end down. At 1 point I was wheeling down 50% of the straight.

I think in stock a ball dif is fine, My Rm car has a ball dif in it and has excellent traction but in mod and MM i had to always be careful on exit. I am now driving my mod like stock with no fear

The motor sits so far back on the SRX that rear weights(behind the axle) are not needed in my opinion and on high grip just moving the battery forward and maybe some front weight should be enough.
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Old 11-10-2014, 05:06 PM
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For those that arent part of the serpent FB page, here is a link to the new hotness !!!! I tq'd the preorder, hopefully that means more on the track !!!! http://www.rcshox.com/serpent-srx2-dtg/ More great products from RC SHOX !!!
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Old 11-10-2014, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by elex300 View Post
This is my current set up for stock 17.5 buggy. The car is very nimble but very planted. It has great entry steering and you can hammer the throttle mid corner to exit and it pulls through and finishes with out any push. Give it a shot on medium to high bite clay tracks. Your feedback is welcome. http://dialedsetups.com/default/sheets/view/id/1476
Few questions...
1.) why the SCT bits in front?
2.) why the AE spring perch?
3.) any additional weight (under the battery or elsewhere)?
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Old 11-10-2014, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by slakr View Post
Few questions...
1.) why the SCT bits in front?
2.) why the AE spring perch?
3.) any additional weight (under the battery or elsewhere)?
1) Short answer. They give the car more on power steering mid corner to exit. This is not a part you can just add to your current set up. It will make the car feel very unbalanced. You have to use the entire set up just as you see it minus springs,pistons,and oils. That you can choose but the limters and shock length is very important.
2) The TLR Springs are shorter then stock. The AE holder makes up the length.
3) No weight added at all.
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Old 11-11-2014, 06:54 AM
  #1633  
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Originally Posted by elex300 View Post
1) Short answer. They give the car more on power steering mid corner to exit. This is not a part you can just add to your current set up. It will make the car feel very unbalanced. You have to use the entire set up just as you see it minus springs,pistons,and oils. That you can choose but the limters and shock length is very important.
2) The TLR Springs are shorter then stock. The AE holder makes up the length.
3) No weight added at all.
Thanks for the reply Erik. I am going to try to follow the setup in its entirety (with the exception of a 13.5 motor). My first outing with the SRX-2 MM was not very good (mostly kit setup, square pack... but I do have a shorty battery as well).
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Old 11-11-2014, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by slakr View Post
Thanks for the reply Erik. I am going to try to follow the setup in its entirety (with the exception of a 13.5 motor). My first outing with the SRX-2 MM was not very good (mostly kit setup, square pack... but I do have a shorty battery as well).
It's a great set up. As long as you choose the correct tire you will be good.
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Old 11-11-2014, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Maxxingout View Post
yeah, that's the 1st time I've heard someone boast a gear diff in place of a ball diff in a 2wd. Makes you wanna order 1 up, lol.
Mantis has been having great succes with the gear diff but it should still really be thought of a tuning option. I use one for the carpet track that I run on but it didn't work as well for me on indoor dirt.

Originally Posted by Stealth_RT View Post
The aluminum front bulkhead is nice both for durability and a bit of extra weight in the front.
It's also the only way to change to 20/25/30 caster for the hinge pin. You do have 0-5 adjustability for the inserts into the C-hubs though.

Originally Posted by slakr View Post
Few questions...
1.) why the SCT bits in front?
A lot of folks have been doing this with success. Billy Easton had a lot to say about it on the FB page a while back so I decided to stick with the stock ones.
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