1/8 motor choice ?
11-22-2013, 08:44 AM
#31
Ok fair enough. As you said electronics have gotten better over the years so don't be afraid to try something again. If it didn't work 7 years ago does not mean it will not work now. My experience tells me that things that Drake, Mayfield or Tebow do are not always things that work or are better then something I'm already doing. If I try something that everyone says to do and then try something that everyone says not to do, sometimes the thing I was told not to do works better for me. The only thing a person can do is find the information and make decision on that. Sometimes its the right decision and sometimes its not.
11-22-2013, 10:38 AM
#33
Always do whats best for you ... Its your hobby , your budget , and your goals. Have fun and try what you think will work , there are no rules about that. I did the 2650 thing for a long time. I do see your signature points out a 1950 kv motor , I guess you pulled that out the buggy ?
11-22-2013, 10:53 AM
#34
No problems here. 165 all day long! I like big kv and small pinions. Pinions are a place that people don't look at to save weight. The bigger the pinion the more power it takes to turn that pinion. That effects the power band and the braking. The pinion is the first thing to effect how much power makes it to the ground.
11-22-2013, 10:59 AM
#35
First time I heard a bigger pinion is more efficient. If a couple ounces in the driveline is not a big deal then why are there lightened outdrives and aluminum drive shafts?
11-22-2013, 11:30 AM
#36
Mostly it is experience over the past 7 years as the class has evolved. We started out running whatever we could find (Feigao, Hacker, Lehner, Plettenburg, etc). Originally, 4S motors were in the high 2000's and low 3000's rpm per voltage range, but we were killing electronics left and right. As the RPM numbers came down, ESC and battery life went up. There was also a chart on one of the brushless conversion pages that showed the ideal efficiency range for different motors (Tekno, RCPD?). By trial and error, the ideal for 4S landed right around 2000 or just under. Nowdays, ESC's and batteries are better and some of the high rpm motors can be practical but still tend to be less reliable overall. When it comes to really pushing a setup hard, the 1700 to 1900 motors are still the most reliable for racing.
+Million. I've been running 1/8th E-buggy since late 2007 - early 2008, I do remember the early days of neu motors, hacked up MM ESC, and $250 15c helicopter batteries. Boy, I do not miss it!
Anyways, I've own every wind Tekin has to offer at one time or another my favorite med to large track motor is the 4030 size T8 1700kv. The only time I use my 19000kv motor is when the straight is greater than 150 feet long. Since the indoor season has started I've been using the T8i 1600kv more often and convinced a bunch of locals to give a try. The top 3-5 guys at our local indoor track run the 1600kv now.
11-22-2013, 12:31 PM
#37
+Million. I've been running 1/8th E-buggy since late 2007 - early 2008, I do remember the early days of neu motors, hacked up MM ESC, and $250 15c helicopter batteries. Boy, I do not miss it!
Anyways, I've own every wind Tekin has to offer at one time or another my favorite med to large track motor is the 4030 size T8 1700kv. The only time I use my 19000kv motor is when the straight is greater than 150 feet long. Since the indoor season has started I've been using the T8i 1600kv more often and convinced a bunch of locals to give a try. The top 3-5 guys at our local indoor track run the 1600kv now.
Anyways, I've own every wind Tekin has to offer at one time or another my favorite med to large track motor is the 4030 size T8 1700kv. The only time I use my 19000kv motor is when the straight is greater than 150 feet long. Since the indoor season has started I've been using the T8i 1600kv more often and convinced a bunch of locals to give a try. The top 3-5 guys at our local indoor track run the 1600kv now.
11-22-2013, 05:12 PM
#38
delete
11-23-2013, 04:43 AM
#39
See the conclusions at the bottom. Yes smaller pinion is less efficient.
So now you're going to compare a single pinion gear with 6-8 out drives and driveshafts when arguing your point? Let's not get crazy now. Only reason to use lightened out drives on an ebuggy are because you have too much $ and need to spend some, you want to impress your buddies at the track, or you believe the manufacturer when they tell you it makes a difference. The only exception being if the lightened out drives are made of a harder material for durability. There is a lot more to gain by running lighter tires and wheels if you want to make a difference in efficiency.
11-23-2013, 05:36 AM
#40
Tech Initiate
On indoor tracks I see more & more 1600KV, and even some 1400KV... on outdoor 1800 to 2000 rules. So the "all purposes" 4S buggy winding should be around 1800KV.
A few years ago many people were running higher KV, now they're looking more for control than power.
Now if you're here for bashing, then sky is the limit !
A few years ago many people were running higher KV, now they're looking more for control than power.
Now if you're here for bashing, then sky is the limit !
11-23-2013, 05:59 AM
#41
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...RQEPBNckY1DFHw
See the conclusions at the bottom. Yes smaller pinion is less efficient.
So now you're going to compare a single pinion gear with 6-8 out drives and driveshafts when arguing your point? Let's not get crazy now. Only reason to use lightened out drives on an ebuggy are because you have too much $ and need to spend some, you want to impress your buddies at the track, or you believe the manufacturer when they tell you it makes a difference. The only exception being if the lightened out drives are made of a harder material for durability. There is a lot more to gain by running lighter tires and wheels if you want to make a difference in efficiency.
See the conclusions at the bottom. Yes smaller pinion is less efficient.
So now you're going to compare a single pinion gear with 6-8 out drives and driveshafts when arguing your point? Let's not get crazy now. Only reason to use lightened out drives on an ebuggy are because you have too much $ and need to spend some, you want to impress your buddies at the track, or you believe the manufacturer when they tell you it makes a difference. The only exception being if the lightened out drives are made of a harder material for durability. There is a lot more to gain by running lighter tires and wheels if you want to make a difference in efficiency.
Your link does not change my mind on using a higher kv motor. It does make me want to look at my gearing a little closer to see if a different pinion would work better.
11-23-2013, 11:50 AM
#42
Good read! As for me getting crazy, no not yet.lol The point I have been trying to make is that one motor is not the best choice for everyone and not that one is more efficient then the other. I don't want the OP to feel pressure to have to buy a tekin 1900kv motor. I actually don't like any of tekins products and will never own any. If you don't feel that lightened drive train part help you then no problem. You don't have to buy them or tell people to buy them.
Your link does not change my mind on using a higher kv motor. It does make me want to look at my gearing a little closer to see if a different pinion would work better.
Your link does not change my mind on using a higher kv motor. It does make me want to look at my gearing a little closer to see if a different pinion would work better.
Most racers at local and pro classes will be running something in the range of a 1900. It doesn't have to be Tekin as you say you would "never" buy. But by far the Tekin 1900 is the motor of choice for club and pro racers. It puts much less strain on your batteries and ESC. And they would just change the pinion if anything at all since the 1900 is great for all tracks. That's just the way it is.
11-23-2013, 01:07 PM
#43
Got ya you like having multiple motors for different tracks and like the power delivery of the 2650.
Most racers at local and pro classes will be running something in the range of a 1900. It doesn't have to be Tekin as you say you would "never" buy. But by far the Tekin 1900 is the motor of choice for club and pro racers. It puts much less strain on your batteries and ESC. And they would just change the pinion if anything at all since the 1900 is great for all tracks. That's just the way it is.
Most racers at local and pro classes will be running something in the range of a 1900. It doesn't have to be Tekin as you say you would "never" buy. But by far the Tekin 1900 is the motor of choice for club and pro racers. It puts much less strain on your batteries and ESC. And they would just change the pinion if anything at all since the 1900 is great for all tracks. That's just the way it is.
11-23-2013, 03:21 PM
#44
When outside temps are low it's also not as bad but we race a lot in 100 degree weather and that's when you will see more issues. Also we run double or triple 10 minute mains usually. I have 2200, 2650 also but they collect dust only unless I blow up the 1900
11-23-2013, 04:47 PM
#45
Tech Adept
I like having the option of SPEED when I'm bashing on pavement and onroad terrain. Is it better to have a high kv motor geared with smaller pinion for temperature or is it better to have a lower kv motor geared with larger pinion?