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Schumacher Cougar KF!!!

Schumacher Cougar KF!!!

Old 11-26-2013, 01:47 AM
  #181  
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Some qustions to you Schumacher guys before joining team purple. Team ex-purple then

I run AE and always have. But since I just don't like the centro c4.2, lost hope waiting for a B5 and being the last "rear motor guy" in the club. This KF is very very tempting. Can anyone with experience tell me the weakpoints of this car? As in durability?

On my b4.2 it was the front top deck, front tower, and sometimes but rarely wingmounts. Suprisingly, never any broken arms. That was pretty much all I needed to bring to the track. Rest was rock solid.

If buying the KF, what parts should I immediatly buy as spares? And I really mean the necessities, shooting blind I'll end up buying 2 kits

Any upgrades that I should go for from the start? Ball diff?

My tools are for imperial hexes and bolts. Are schumacher screws and bolts metric?

What running weight do these cars end up with?

Radek J
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Old 11-26-2013, 07:17 AM
  #182  
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I would recommend caster blocks and knuckles. Ive never broke a Schumacher arm. I run the alum 5deg blocks. Ball diff unless your on fly paper grip. Schumacher cars are much more durable than your ae stuff. My car weighs 1660g bone stock with 5300 saddle
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Old 11-26-2013, 08:38 AM
  #183  
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[QUOTE=riverdog;12757230]
Originally Posted by nickdawg18

The KF cannot be converted to RM. The rb6 is awesome in mid and rear motor config. Its a dream to build, setup, and drive. Cost is the ONLY negative factor with that car. I'd buy an rb6 over the KF until folks get the KF setups figured out on a variety of dirt tracks.
I disagree with the notion that a MM car is not and will not be good for certain types of tracks because being and AVID (no pun intended there) race fan a car that has a better overall balance will work better on more tracks than ones that have all the weight either to the front or the rear. Having said that, the weight of the engine over the rear tires means there is more weight and thus rear traction is much improved. However, a rear engine car is more along the lines of the majority of MM RC cars today because of where the power train is located relative to the rear axles/tires.

While I think the KF is the best "looking MM car, the one critique I have for it is that perhaps the motor sits a little too far forward, but since batteries carry a good amount of mass, they likely place all of the necessary weight back in the correct area to place the center of gravity where it is most ideal. I don't have a KF and can only go by what I thought upon examining Pak's schweeeet! KF, but I thought it was better balanced than the Centro, 22, and RB6 in MM configuration.

I am going see if Pak will allow me to try his car on the track for a few laps to see how it compares to my 4.2. If I notice a significant enough improvement, A KF may be taking the place of my 4.2 in the near future.

Personally, I detest how "rigged" most MM cars look so I sincerely hope this KF serves to enlighten manufacturers as to how a PROPER MM configuration should resemble so they can invest in R&D and come up with something that looks purpose built rather than a make due patchwork.

Last edited by the incubus; 11-26-2013 at 09:33 AM.
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Old 11-26-2013, 09:38 AM
  #184  
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I hope your not comparing 1/10 buggy performance with anything full scale. Theres nothing fullscale that performs remotely close to rc. The dynamics can never be compared
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Old 11-26-2013, 10:10 AM
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Not comparing 1/10 to full scale. Just listing the relevancy of weight distribution to traction and how it affects vehicles. Whether real life or RC weight and it's location affects center of gravity and as such, placement can prove to be the difference between excellence and mediocrity. This applies to any scale vehicle but the affects vary slightly from scale to scale.
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Old 11-26-2013, 10:46 AM
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I agree. Weight transfer is the meat of all car suspension tuning. The main thing mm lacks in handling is forward grip and the rotational center of pivot is much further foward. When the amount of grip available does not meet the minimum required, handling will suffer. Thats not saying you couldnt run a mm on very low grip tracks , but will it be as effective as rm?
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Old 11-26-2013, 11:21 AM
  #187  
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Originally Posted by Tony Newland
I would recommend caster blocks and knuckles. Ive never broke a Schumacher arm. I run the alum 5deg blocks. Ball diff unless your on fly paper grip. Schumacher cars are much more durable than your ae stuff. My car weighs 1660g bone stock with 5300 saddle
Thank you Tony. 1660g without weights feels a little chubby for a 2wd. It looks so lightweight, but I guess parts really are beefy.

I run on mixed surface, mostly carpet with some very slippery rubber-floor hairpins, so ball diff it is. Any other must have's? No need for rpm ball cups here?

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Old 11-26-2013, 11:28 AM
  #188  
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Originally Posted by Tony Newland
I would recommend caster blocks and knuckles. Ive never broke a Schumacher arm. I run the alum 5deg blocks. Ball diff unless your on fly paper grip. Schumacher cars are much more durable than your ae stuff. My car weighs 1660g bone stock with 5300 saddle
Tony,

Why is the ball diff better for loose conditions? Or is it that it is easier to adjust for different conditions?

That gear diff feels so smooth I can't see why it wouldn't perform as good?
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Old 11-26-2013, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by radek
Thank you Tony. 1660g without weights feels a little chubby for a 2wd. It looks so lightweight, but I guess parts really are beefy.

I run on mixed surface, mostly carpet with some very slippery rubber-floor hairpins, so ball diff it is. Any other must have's? No need for rpm ball cups here?

Radek
Rpm ball cups bind. If anything upgrade to 4.8mm lunsford studs and ball cups. Ive popped one off in several months of racing and they never bind. The majority ofthe weight isin the saddle packs and alum parts.

Originally Posted by AnthonyN
Tony,

Why is the ball diff better for loose conditions? Or is it that it is easier to adjust for different conditions?

That gear diff feels so smooth I can't see why it wouldn't perform as good?
For me the ball diff has more grip. The testing ive done on the clock the gear diff isnt as fast or as confident as ball.
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Old 11-26-2013, 12:18 PM
  #190  
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Originally Posted by getpip
Thanks for looking at Part 1 of my build guys.
I've been busy and Part 2 is now up.
It can be found HERE
All finished... Electrics install and paint can be seen HERE

Ran it on astro at the weekend .. very impressed.
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Old 11-26-2013, 08:43 PM
  #191  
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Ready to hit the track tomorrow
Attached Thumbnails Schumacher Cougar KF!!!-kf-done.jpg  
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Old 11-26-2013, 09:14 PM
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Watching and waiting for some run videos
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Old 11-26-2013, 09:31 PM
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Here is some numbers from the scales between KF and SV2.
KF --339---332 ------SV2 --280---277
------450---467-------------500---499

KF -- 5100mAh saddle pack 264g, factory setting.
SV2-- 4200mAh shorty pack 203g, rear shocks mount behind arms.
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Old 11-27-2013, 01:28 AM
  #194  
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Both cars with full sized servos?
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Old 11-27-2013, 03:44 AM
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Even with a lighter pack, sv2 seems to have a fair bit more weight on the rear. Does that mean regardless of surface, the sv2 would always have more rear end grip?
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