Schumacher Cougar KF!!!
01-20-2015, 06:28 PM
#1201
well i bought the kit to relocate the shocks to the back of the arm.
01-20-2015, 08:17 PM
#1202
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
I ran my KF for the first time at IERC in Riverside CA. Even with my dialed RB6 and 22-4, it was a rather humbling Sunday. Ty of HPI and Jason Snyder was there prepping for the Reedy Race of Champions (wrong track?). Those guys are way fast. Pretty cool dudes too. No attitude at all. Anyways, while I had almost no traction due to new tires and dropping on dirt for the first time, I must say: This car FLOATS. Kyosho may have some super smooth dampers, but wow, Schumacher has the rest perfect. I drilled my pistons to 1.6 and ran a slick track setup. No low grip chassis yet. I was so impressed by the suspension. Too bad I didn't realize I was trying to calibrate my esc with my transmitter on ABS. The car had no top end and was braking hard when I let off. Excited to go back properly calibrated.
Anyone heading to the Reedy Race this weekend?
Anyone heading to the Reedy Race this weekend?
01-20-2015, 10:31 PM
#1203
Tech Master
iTrader: (37)
Originally Posted by scoobyrs25
I ran my KF for the first time at IERC in Riverside CA. Even with my dialed RB6 and 22-4, it was a rather humbling Sunday. Ty of HPI and Jason Snyder was there prepping for the Reedy Race of Champions (wrong track?). Those guys are way fast. Pretty cool dudes too. No attitude at all. Anyways, while I had almost no traction due to new tires and dropping on dirt for the first time, I must say: This car FLOATS. Kyosho may have some super smooth dampers, but wow, Schumacher has the rest perfect. I drilled my pistons to 1.6 and ran a slick track setup. No low grip chassis yet. I was so impressed by the suspension. Too bad I didn't realize I was trying to calibrate my esc with my transmitter on ABS. The car had no top end and was braking hard when I let off. Excited to go back properly calibrated.
Anyone heading to the Reedy Race this weekend?
Anyone heading to the Reedy Race this weekend?
01-21-2015, 08:25 PM
#1204
well here is what i did so far.
used the rear aluminum upper bulkhead kit to put shocks in rear.
put 2 degrees of anti squat back in it using the lower pin holes.
couple of questions.
1. i read in some articles some are reversing the rear arms. i tried to do that but im guessing you can not do that with the alloy toe-in/squat upgrade. i noticed my arms would hit and limit suspension movement. do you have to change to the molded toe-in blocks and is it worth it?
2. i looked on some set up sheets to see what people were running as a typical anti squat and noticed that many were using the rear lower and front upper pin mount and shims in the rear of the squat blocks. thats just to much math right there lol. im guessing they are taking the difference of the top and bottom holes and adding that on to the washers to get the difference? and why? i just went with lower pin hole and 2mm washers in rear for a total of 2.6 degrees of squat.
3. why didnt schumacher just make blocks that were a set degree for the rear end and you could just swap out? i mean its not hard to figure out the difference if you are using the same pin hole but if you are using different pin holes it gets confusing. atleast not knowing the formula to get the answer..
one more thing, i noticed when you take shims out or put in with the alloy rear toe in blocks that it will bind. is there a method to get this from not happening?
thanks Geo
used the rear aluminum upper bulkhead kit to put shocks in rear.
put 2 degrees of anti squat back in it using the lower pin holes.
couple of questions.
1. i read in some articles some are reversing the rear arms. i tried to do that but im guessing you can not do that with the alloy toe-in/squat upgrade. i noticed my arms would hit and limit suspension movement. do you have to change to the molded toe-in blocks and is it worth it?
2. i looked on some set up sheets to see what people were running as a typical anti squat and noticed that many were using the rear lower and front upper pin mount and shims in the rear of the squat blocks. thats just to much math right there lol. im guessing they are taking the difference of the top and bottom holes and adding that on to the washers to get the difference? and why? i just went with lower pin hole and 2mm washers in rear for a total of 2.6 degrees of squat.
3. why didnt schumacher just make blocks that were a set degree for the rear end and you could just swap out? i mean its not hard to figure out the difference if you are using the same pin hole but if you are using different pin holes it gets confusing. atleast not knowing the formula to get the answer..
one more thing, i noticed when you take shims out or put in with the alloy rear toe in blocks that it will bind. is there a method to get this from not happening?
thanks Geo
01-22-2015, 04:09 PM
#1205
I have done everything on this car according to this forum when it comes to low grip conditions, except for moving the esc behind the motor (it's to big), nothing using the SV2 arms nor drilled the 3rd hole on the arm. I am using Tony's ICRC setup and currently have 60.3% weight in the rear. I race at Mike's in Porter, TX. This track likes the 3Ds tires in under normal condition. However, with current settings my stock B5M is way faster (28 seconds versus 31 seconds lap time). The B5M has about 63% weight in the rear. So, to get more weight to the rear I cut a peace of sheet metal about the same size of my battery (see pictures). This sheet metal is 16 gauge (1.59mm) and is the max thickness you can use (belt is very close to the battery) and the weight is 47 gram. When installed under the battery, the weight in the rear increased to 60.6% so that did not improved much. Putting the weight over the rear bumper (see picture) increased the weight to 62%. Tony had a Trishbits brass weight that could be installed over the bumper , but could not find any online. Has anyone tried adding weights to the rear?
01-22-2015, 04:34 PM
#1206
Tech Regular
Originally Posted by cokemaster
I have done everything on this car according to this forum when it comes to low grip conditions, except for moving the esc behind the motor (it's to big), nothing using the SV2 arms nor drilled the 3rd hole on the arm. I am using Tony's ICRC setup and currently have 60.3% weight in the rear. I race at Mike's in Porter, TX. This track likes the 3Ds tires in under normal condition. However, with current settings my stock B5M is way faster (28 seconds versus 31 seconds lap time). The B5M has about 63% weight in the rear. So, to get more weight to the rear I cut a peace of sheet metal about the same size of my battery (see pictures). This sheet metal is 16 gauge (1.59mm) and is the max thickness you can use (belt is very close to the battery) and the weight is 47 gram. When installed under the battery, the weight in the rear increased to 60.6% so that did not improved much. Putting the weight over the rear bumper (see picture) increased the weight to 62%. Tony had a Trishbits brass weight that could be installed over the bumper , but could not find any online. Has anyone tried adding weights to the rear?
01-22-2015, 05:11 PM
#1207
Originally Posted by cokemaster
I have done everything on this car according to this forum when it comes to low grip conditions, except for moving the esc behind the motor (it's to big), nothing using the SV2 arms nor drilled the 3rd hole on the arm. I am using Tony's ICRC setup and currently have 60.3% weight in the rear. I race at Mike's in Porter, TX. This track likes the 3Ds tires in under normal condition. However, with current settings my stock B5M is way faster (28 seconds versus 31 seconds lap time). The B5M has about 63% weight in the rear. So, to get more weight to the rear I cut a peace of sheet metal about the same size of my battery (see pictures). This sheet metal is 16 gauge (1.59mm) and is the max thickness you can use (belt is very close to the battery) and the weight is 47 gram. When installed under the battery, the weight in the rear increased to 60.6% so that did not improved much. Putting the weight over the rear bumper (see picture) increased the weight to 62%. Tony had a Trishbits brass weight that could be installed over the bumper , but could not find any online. Has anyone tried adding weights to the rear?
by just looking at your picture you have no shims for rear toe or anti-squat.
01-22-2015, 05:36 PM
#1208
Originally Posted by cokemaster
I have done everything on this car according to this forum when it comes to low grip conditions, except for moving the esc behind the motor (it's to big), nothing using the SV2 arms nor drilled the 3rd hole on the arm. I am using Tony's ICRC setup and currently have 60.3% weight in the rear. I race at Mike's in Porter, TX. This track likes the 3Ds tires in under normal condition. However, with current settings my stock B5M is way faster (28 seconds versus 31 seconds lap time). The B5M has about 63% weight in the rear. So, to get more weight to the rear I cut a peace of sheet metal about the same size of my battery (see pictures). This sheet metal is 16 gauge (1.59mm) and is the max thickness you can use (belt is very close to the battery) and the weight is 47 gram. When installed under the battery, the weight in the rear increased to 60.6% so that did not improved much. Putting the weight over the rear bumper (see picture) increased the weight to 62%. Tony had a Trishbits brass weight that could be installed over the bumper , but could not find any online. Has anyone tried adding weights to the rear?
Originally Posted by twisted
well here is what i did so far.
used the rear aluminum upper bulkhead kit to put shocks in rear.
put 2 degrees of anti squat back in it using the lower pin holes.
couple of questions.
1. i read in some articles some are reversing the rear arms. i tried to do that but im guessing you can not do that with the alloy toe-in/squat upgrade. i noticed my arms would hit and limit suspension movement. do you have to change to the molded toe-in blocks and is it worth it?
2. i looked on some set up sheets to see what people were running as a typical anti squat and noticed that many were using the rear lower and front upper pin mount and shims in the rear of the squat blocks. thats just to much math right there lol. im guessing they are taking the difference of the top and bottom holes and adding that on to the washers to get the difference? and why? i just went with lower pin hole and 2mm washers in rear for a total of 2.6 degrees of squat.
3. why didnt schumacher just make blocks that were a set degree for the rear end and you could just swap out? i mean its not hard to figure out the difference if you are using the same pin hole but if you are using different pin holes it gets confusing. atleast not knowing the formula to get the answer..
one more thing, i noticed when you take shims out or put in with the alloy rear toe in blocks that it will bind. is there a method to get this from not happening?
thanks Geo
used the rear aluminum upper bulkhead kit to put shocks in rear.
put 2 degrees of anti squat back in it using the lower pin holes.
couple of questions.
1. i read in some articles some are reversing the rear arms. i tried to do that but im guessing you can not do that with the alloy toe-in/squat upgrade. i noticed my arms would hit and limit suspension movement. do you have to change to the molded toe-in blocks and is it worth it?
2. i looked on some set up sheets to see what people were running as a typical anti squat and noticed that many were using the rear lower and front upper pin mount and shims in the rear of the squat blocks. thats just to much math right there lol. im guessing they are taking the difference of the top and bottom holes and adding that on to the washers to get the difference? and why? i just went with lower pin hole and 2mm washers in rear for a total of 2.6 degrees of squat.
3. why didnt schumacher just make blocks that were a set degree for the rear end and you could just swap out? i mean its not hard to figure out the difference if you are using the same pin hole but if you are using different pin holes it gets confusing. atleast not knowing the formula to get the answer..
one more thing, i noticed when you take shims out or put in with the alloy rear toe in blocks that it will bind. is there a method to get this from not happening?
thanks Geo
The stock mounts are molded to 2deg anti squat and 3deg toe... which is good most of the time....
tighten the screws evenly and there should be no bind, I only run the tiny hinge pin screws on the inside of the car to hold the pins when I take everything apart, i dont usse them on the rear, those also make it bind
01-22-2015, 06:27 PM
#1209
Originally Posted by joeymdz
you wrote everything down except what the car is doing (you looking for more rear grip?)
by just looking at your picture you have no shims for rear toe or anti-squat.
by just looking at your picture you have no shims for rear toe or anti-squat.
01-22-2015, 06:29 PM
#1210
Originally Posted by cokemaster
I have done everything on this car according to this forum when it comes to low grip conditions, except for moving the esc behind the motor (it's to big), nothing using the SV2 arms nor drilled the 3rd hole on the arm. I am using Tony's ICRC setup and currently have 60.3% weight in the rear. I race at Mike's in Porter, TX. This track likes the 3Ds tires in under normal condition. However, with current settings my stock B5M is way faster (28 seconds versus 31 seconds lap time). The B5M has about 63% weight in the rear. So, to get more weight to the rear I cut a peace of sheet metal about the same size of my battery (see pictures). This sheet metal is 16 gauge (1.59mm) and is the max thickness you can use (belt is very close to the battery) and the weight is 47 gram. When installed under the battery, the weight in the rear increased to 60.6% so that did not improved much. Putting the weight over the rear bumper (see picture) increased the weight to 62%. Tony had a Trishbits brass weight that could be installed over the bumper , but could not find any online. Has anyone tried adding weights to the rear?
i used some stick on lead on the rear camber plate. im not 100% sure it did anything but over the car was good with it on there. i however have switched my set up and iam going to try it with no wt.
01-22-2015, 08:01 PM
#1211
Originally Posted by joeymdz
you wrote everything down except what the car is doing (you looking for more rear grip?)
by just looking at your picture you have no shims for rear toe or anti-squat.
by just looking at your picture you have no shims for rear toe or anti-squat.
01-22-2015, 09:25 PM
#1212
The majority of us running KF's at our local track moved our electronics to the rear. The car just feels better planted and well balanced. The car also is very reactive in through corners and in the air. I've had all the different configurations and by far this is the way to go. I am running a LG chassis but moved it forward so I can squeeze in the electronics. (This weekend is my wiring clean up)
01-22-2015, 09:51 PM
#1214
Thanks Tony
Im going to shed a a few pounds by taking off my battery hold down mod and use WALMART brand super thin sticky tape (its like glue) and or course shortening all the wires. Im going to borrow Miguels corner weight scale so I'll get it perfectly balanced.
I am really impressed with the new layout. I'll post some video of our KF's on our next club race. It's a KF movement out here.. lol
Im going to shed a a few pounds by taking off my battery hold down mod and use WALMART brand super thin sticky tape (its like glue) and or course shortening all the wires. Im going to borrow Miguels corner weight scale so I'll get it perfectly balanced.
I am really impressed with the new layout. I'll post some video of our KF's on our next club race. It's a KF movement out here.. lol
