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Schumacher Cougar KF!!!

Schumacher Cougar KF!!!

Old 12-30-2014, 07:25 PM
  #1126  
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just got back from the hobbyshop. expensive trip. i bought the low g kit, rear toe in/squat kit and some new rear tires. dboots multibyte in B compound. some folks are switching to these tires.

i always set the end points to the max and back off till there is no binding or strain on the servo. i do have the dual rate turned down but im not sure on the %.

im running the front kit springs and there is no washers under the ballstuf or the rack. (kit set up).
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Old 12-30-2014, 11:29 PM
  #1127  
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Originally Posted by twisted View Post
just got back from the hobbyshop. expensive trip. i bought the low g kit, rear toe in/squat kit and some new rear tires. dboots multibyte in B compound. some folks are switching to these tires.

i always set the end points to the max and back off till there is no binding or strain on the servo. i do have the dual rate turned down but im not sure on the %.

im running the front kit springs and there is no washers under the ballstuf or the rack. (kit set up).
The rear aluminum toe block kit is needed. Not only for the durability but for the different adjustments.

Also look into investing on the core sets of springs. I'm pretty new to chewies so Tony could help out with the stock spring rates but I purchased these kits ASAP. Its always good to tune with different spring rates
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Old 12-31-2014, 12:36 AM
  #1128  
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If others are trying the Dboots in B compound that must be some strange astro you've got, some of us tried them when our outdoor track (http://www.torchracing.co.uk) was very wet and with standing water. We normally run Ballistic Buggy Greens though in those conditions, not sure if you can get them in the U.S.?
I always find that Schuey Greens have a narrow operating window, worked when the track was greasy but not when the track was wet. Still think you should try some different fronts though, Schuey low profile cut staggers work in nearly all conditions on astro, Silvers work when the track is low grip and Greens work when the track is greasy, all other times we run Yellows. At the end of the day tyres are the biggest part of set up.

The LG chassis will help a lot and make the car easier to drive, running the shorties that the LG chassis requires also takes quite a bit of weight out of the car. I also run 2.5 to 3 degrees rear camber which helps with side grip. The kit front springs will give too much steering, try Core Greens or Reds, what springs do you have on the rear? Flipping the front wishbones effectively lengthens the wheelbase and gives a bit less steering. Adding washers to the steering softens the steering response around the neutral point, not sure if this will help you at the moment though.
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Old 12-31-2014, 02:27 PM
  #1129  
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Originally Posted by Badger5 View Post
If others are trying the Dboots in B compound that must be some strange astro you've got, some of us tried them when our outdoor track (http://www.torchracing.co.uk) was very wet and with standing water. We normally run Ballistic Buggy Greens though in those conditions, not sure if you can get them in the U.S.?
I always find that Schuey Greens have a narrow operating window, worked when the track was greasy but not when the track was wet. Still think you should try some different fronts though, Schuey low profile cut staggers work in nearly all conditions on astro, Silvers work when the track is low grip and Greens work when the track is greasy, all other times we run Yellows. At the end of the day tyres are the biggest part of set up.

The LG chassis will help a lot and make the car easier to drive, running the shorties that the LG chassis requires also takes quite a bit of weight out of the car. I also run 2.5 to 3 degrees rear camber which helps with side grip. The kit front springs will give too much steering, try Core Greens or Reds, what springs do you have on the rear? Flipping the front wishbones effectively lengthens the wheelbase and gives a bit less steering. Adding washers to the steering softens the steering response around the neutral point, not sure if this will help you at the moment though.
the rear springs are kit also.
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Old 12-31-2014, 07:05 PM
  #1130  
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when using the low grip chassis do you use the front belt tensioner along with the new rear one? the instructions do not show the front one installed but they also dont tell ya if you have to take it out.
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Old 12-31-2014, 07:08 PM
  #1131  
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ya use both
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Old 12-31-2014, 08:31 PM
  #1132  
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yea i went to google and did some image searches. i prolly should of done that 1st before asking. thanks tho!
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Old 12-31-2014, 09:00 PM
  #1133  
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one last stupid question tonight, how do you guys set your belt tension?
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Old 12-31-2014, 10:44 PM
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loose is fast.... if its too loose you will hear it when you go over jumps (then make it a hair tighter)
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Old 01-02-2015, 01:53 PM
  #1135  
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about to put on the rear toe in/anti squat kit. wow this looks like it could be a bit confusing.
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Old 01-02-2015, 06:08 PM
  #1136  
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so i have it on. for the toe in i have 4 mm of washers so that would be 4* of toe correct? and for squat iam running no washers to get 0*.

sound about right?
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Old 01-02-2015, 06:12 PM
  #1137  
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4mm would be like 5deg of toe in...

0mm would be about .5deg antisquat...

The setup sheets are wrong on the antisquat, they are based off the older 3mm rear screws. Since they have gone to the 4mm they had to separate the holes to accomodate the larger screws and that equats to approx .5deg more antisquat than listed....

Check out the lower left side of the setup sheet to adjust your toe/AS

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/schumac...rCougarKF.html
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Old 01-02-2015, 06:29 PM
  #1138  
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Originally Posted by Tony Newland View Post
4mm would be like 5deg of toe in...

0mm would be about .5deg antisquat...

The setup sheets are wrong on the antisquat, they are based off the older 3mm rear screws. Since they have gone to the 4mm they had to separate the holes to accomodate the larger screws and that equats to approx .5deg more antisquat than listed....

Check out the lower left side of the setup sheet to adjust your toe/AS

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/schumac...rCougarKF.html
so for toe,if you run 3mm washers in the rear block and 0 on the front block and subtract those two (3.0-0=3.0),then use that as your "difference" and look that up on the chart to see what your toe is. is that how you figure out this?

sorry if im thick headed but i just want to understand it completely.
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Old 01-02-2015, 06:31 PM
  #1139  
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exactly, same with antisquat but add about .5deg for ther larger rear bolts.....

So if you want zero antisquat you actually need about .5mm under the front block and 0 under the rear... I measured it a while back and figured out exactly how much it was, but from what I remember its very close to .5mm
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Old 01-02-2015, 07:07 PM
  #1140  
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Thanks again!
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