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Schumacher Cougar KF!!!

Schumacher Cougar KF!!!

Old 05-22-2014, 06:16 AM
  #841  
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Originally Posted by russellnyg745 View Post
New here, first post, just got me a new cougar kf thing is super sleek and the build was easy, ran it this past week end on medium to high bite clay and took third, i have a few questions but here is my setup first, i reversed the rear arms, im running 25 wt in all four shocks, long wheel base, clay ions in rear and super soft in front, 10k in gear diff, running a tekin gen 2 17.5 high rpm with tekin rs gen 2 esc. Stock springs and shocks are set up as per manual along with every thing else. So heres first question what gearing should i run for the 17.5?? Pinion? Spur? Also what side gear will make a difference? I need more speed currently running no timing. Also what do i need to do to make the rear grip better?? I see all this drilling shock piston stuff what is that all about and how would i do that? Please let me know what i can change on my setup that will give me grip out of the corner, sorry for the long post and thanks for your time guys!
I got a lot of rear grip by drilling the pistons to 1.6 mm and adding anti squat. Those two alone changed my Kf completely. I have 71 27 spur and pinion gears.
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Old 05-22-2014, 01:51 PM
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Do you use a 1.6 mm drillbit? Do you have tk get.the lettered blocks to adjust antisquat?
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Old 05-22-2014, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by russellnyg745 View Post
New here, first post, just got me a new cougar kf thing is super sleek and the build was easy, ran it this past week end on medium to high bite clay and took third, i have a few questions but here is my setup first, i reversed the rear arms, im running 25 wt in all four shocks, long wheel base, clay ions in rear and super soft in front, 10k in gear diff, running a tekin gen 2 17.5 high rpm with tekin rs gen 2 esc. Stock springs and shocks are set up as per manual along with every thing else. So heres first question what gearing should i run for the 17.5?? Pinion? Spur? Also what side gear will make a difference? I need more speed currently running no timing. Also what do i need to do to make the rear grip better?? I see all this drilling shock piston stuff what is that all about and how would i do that? Please let me know what i can change on my setup that will give me grip out of the corner, sorry for the long post and thanks for your time guys!
I run a Novak Vulcan 17.5 69/34 gearing. I added a 1mm spacer on each side behind the rear block to increase toe in which helped
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Old 05-22-2014, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by cody.byrnes View Post
i went with 32.5 front and 27.5 rear and it seemed good. i just bumped my breaks up from 20 to 30% because the car was a little high on the nose off a jump...that did the trick. do you or anyone have any suggestions as far as front tires? what the proline ions and aka vektor tires will do to a buggy at the same dry low grip smooth track(what each will do/which would be better off? they both are soft compound with the same inserts. I like the ions but think the vektor tire could work well too. any advice is appreciated!
Thats not much brake... I run 50% and thats less than most... Im not usually a fan of running diff compounds F/R is there a specific reason why? Otherwise i try to always match the front tire with the rear... Ion/Ion... barcode/barcode etc

Originally Posted by russellnyg745 View Post
New here, first post, just got me a new cougar kf thing is super sleek and the build was easy, ran it this past week end on medium to high bite clay and took third, i have a few questions but here is my setup first, i reversed the rear arms, im running 25 wt in all four shocks, long wheel base, clay ions in rear and super soft in front, 10k in gear diff, running a tekin gen 2 17.5 high rpm with tekin rs gen 2 esc. Stock springs and shocks are set up as per manual along with every thing else. So heres first question what gearing should i run for the 17.5?? Pinion? Spur? Also what side gear will make a difference? I need more speed currently running no timing. Also what do i need to do to make the rear grip better?? I see all this drilling shock piston stuff what is that all about and how would i do that? Please let me know what i can change on my setup that will give me grip out of the corner, sorry for the long post and thanks for your time guys!
drilling the pistons allows the shocks to have more dampening therefore adding grip. 1.6 is the magic number after much testing over the years. Also adding rear toe in will help a ton with the stock blocks... 1mm in the rear like fivepoint said. But to adjust antisquat you'll need the alum rear arm mounts... Also running the upper holes in your rear bulkhead on the arm mounts will add bunch more rear grip over the lowers
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Old 05-22-2014, 06:34 PM
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tony: no specific reason... had those tires and they were working OK. need new tires soon though...you think ions or barcodes? my normal track is a dry dirt/top soil smooth track if i didnt tell you before.(long island raceway)


russellnyg745: i got the parts tony recommended at discountrcstore . com
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Old 05-22-2014, 06:39 PM
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What are the fast mod guys running? chances are theyve ran just about everything and have a fav
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Old 05-22-2014, 09:22 PM
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So drill the holes in all four shock pistons to 1.6mm? Also should i go with a softer spring and even a lower shock oil(running 25 all around)? Also should i put tge rear arms to the normal position or keep them reveresed? New to buggies and kinda new to the hobby sorry for all the questions
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Old 05-22-2014, 09:25 PM
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Yes most are drilling F&R pistons....

There are quite a few setups on Petitrc's website
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/schumac...rCougarKF.html

As well as Schumachers
http://www.racing-cars.com/search.as...e1=prodvalue14

you could start with one of those and tweak it for your liking
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Old 05-22-2014, 10:10 PM
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man what a night of racing in Olympia, first race on a new layout and the KF was dialed from the get go! All driver error, cant blame the car for a thing for my finish in the A main. Still have not drilled the pistons yet, did in my K1A and it helped a ton, I am just hesitant to do any more tweaking on my KF since it is working good right now.
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Old 05-22-2014, 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by fivepointnine View Post
man what a night of racing in Olympia, first race on a new layout and the KF was dialed from the get go! All driver error, cant blame the car for a thing for my finish in the A main. Still have not drilled the pistons yet, did in my K1A and it helped a ton, I am just hesitant to do any more tweaking on my KF since it is working good right now.
Don't mind me asking this question.
What kind of track were you running on?
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Old 05-23-2014, 06:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Tony Newland View Post
Thats not much brake... I run 50% and thats less than most...

I think he may have been referring to Drag Brake in speedo?
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Old 05-23-2014, 06:26 AM
  #852  
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Originally Posted by leongkc View Post
Don't mind me asking this question.
What kind of track were you running on?
Olympia is a medium/high bite clay indoor track. There are about 4 Kf's that run here so we have worked together and there pretty dialed for the amount of traction.

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Old 05-23-2014, 11:48 AM
  #853  
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a small note on adding 1mm shims on the stock blocks to get more rear toe in.. tried that on our national race but when I tested the car on the "regulation box" it was not free rolling and it was on the very limit of the 250mm rear width...fresh caliber rear tyres and schumi kf standard wheels..
so I removed them
dont know if that is also the case with the alum blocks, but I will find out soon
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Old 05-23-2014, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by H3RESQ View Post
I think he may have been referring to Drag Brake in speedo?
O ok... thats alot of drag brake
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Old 05-24-2014, 07:32 AM
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I probably have more into my kf then any other car I've had. But honestly I don't regret any of it. I'm not the fastest guy in mod but I really like driving this car, it's easy and really fast. A little bit of what I have done to get it to where I like it is: aluminum front castors, losi green front springs, drilled 1.6 pistons, limited front shocks 32.5 wt oil, aluminum upper diff housing w/shocks in the rear position, drilled 1.6 rear pistons, losi white rear springs, 25 wt oil, aluminum rear pivots, aluminum rear hubs, and ball diff. Most of what I've done isn't necessary I'm sure but I've had a good time trying different things.
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