lemonader83

iTrader: (16)

I have a 2650kv Castle Motor much like most of you do, but mine has a shaft sticking out the back too... Castle says its irreparable, definitely not their fault and will happily replace for more than I paid for it.

So.... I would post a pic, but you can figure it out in your head. The motor shaft literally ate a hole in the back of the motor and pushed itself all the way through the back plate. I've never taken this motor apart, but am thinking the easy fix is to patch it with JB Weld just light enough so as not to permanently affix the shaft to the JB Weld material.

Thoughts? Has anyone had this happen before? Castle blames it on me of course, bu this is the first time I can honestly say I did nothing wrong:
Pinion: 12 M1
Spur: 40 M1
Vehicle: Losi Ten SCTE
Battery: Reedy 4S Lipo
ESC: Mamba Monster
Bearings: ALL GOOD
Motor Mount: Straight, no bends
Mesh: Dialed in, not loose, not tight, it purrs...

I know I can't return it, just wodnering if anyone can think of a fix until I buy a new one.

Thanks!!!!!

kufman

iTrader: (6)

I would say that your best bet is to buy a new rotor. The hole in the end bell probably isn't a big deal unless the bearing has moved. Please post a pic.

You were probably a bit over geared for 4S operation on that motor. That motor is better on 3S.

ThePanda

iTrader: (68)

I wanna see a pic! The castle motors are very durable.

lbenton

iTrader: (48)

I think the castle endbell is open on the rear with just a sticker over the bearing to keep it clean..

So I assume the rotor debonded and punched out the sticker?

You can get a motor rebuild kit for it if that is the case:

http://www.castlecreations.com/produ...pair_kits.html

Looks like they are about $56 on Amain..

As for the sticker... well vinyl something will do, like the stuff you line the bottom of a drawer with.

A picture would help...

1967Typhoon

iTrader: (35)

+1

This has to be the case. I don't see how the whole rotor could work itself out that far.

Get a new rotor, or a new motor.

lemonader83

iTrader: (16)

i'm uploading a video to youtube right now...

its no sticker, thats the old ones/small motors, the rotor is literally driven thru metal(just cut my finger on it)!

vids coming, let me know what you think once its up!

lemonader83

iTrader: (16)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x5y0sFhMSmo

have a look...

1967Typhoon

iTrader: (35)

Yeah, we REALLY need to see that! Looks like you are out a motor though.

Darkgenerals

iTrader: (71)

couple of things caused this.

1. The bronze bushing between the bearing and rotor wore down.

2. some one rebuilt the motor and the bronze bushing on the rotor was left out.

honestly you should be good with a rebuild on the motor as long as nothing was damaged on the inside.

a hole in the back plate is nothing, rebuild the motor, put a sticker on it and move on with life.

lemonader83

iTrader: (16)

+1 on this answer, never knew someone could screw it up rebuilding it.

I guess since I am the king of all "ghetto rigs" and hate giving castle my money...is there a way to fix it without buying the motor rebuild? it worked fine, and 4S is beautiful with that truck, until the motor popped out the back. Couldn't I just jb weld the hole and call it a day?

Thanks again guys!

Darkgenerals

iTrader: (71)

no, you have to have that bronze bushing that is most likely missing.

Open up the motor and look at it, you should have a bronze/brass bushing at both ends of the motor. They keep the rotor centered between the bearings. If you could find a blown up castle motor for cheap and harvest the needed parts. That is the only way I could think of find it cheap.

if you open up the link lbenton gave, and look at the picture. You can see the bushings im talking about. they are the the parts right next to the bearing in the left lower corner.

My best suggestion is to open up the motor and confirm its missing the bushings, and then try to find one of the castle motors that uses the same shell and rotor, and harvest the parts. Unless you can talk castle into sending you those bushings, but I doubt they would want to place nice.

lbenton

iTrader: (48)

If that bushing / spacer was not on the rear it will get back out again...

With a rebuild kit you can add the labor of grinding the burs off the back and cover the hole with something to seal it back up...

Or you can bite the bullet and replace the motor. That is the sure fix that will leave no doubt.

Darkgenerals

iTrader: (71)

Another thought, if you can find some one with a similar motor. Pull it apart and measure all the specs of the rear spacer.

Finding spacers online of any material is actually pretty easy, and all you should need is brass.

Get a caliper, and measure the ID/OD and length, and then just google it. You may even be able to find something locally at a hardware store.

I dont even see why you would need to grind the burs of the back of the motor? I would like to hear a explanation of why its necessary. along with the fact that the rotor pushed outward so any burs would be on the outside of rear cover. You wouldn't even really need to cover the rear hole, that would be a preference kind of thing.


It seems weird that this sight is not very DIY when it comes to things, its pretty much buy it and run it like it sits, Then replace it when it breaks. The DIY type of thing seems few and far between, Having info on bearing size and spacer size would be nice for major types of motors.

lbenton

iTrader: (48)

Because he said he cut himself on it once already... so I would clean it up.. we give enough money to this hobby, why give blood as well.

wittyname

iTrader: (4)

This is hilarious . I just sold one of these for about 10 more dollars then the rebuild kit . Do yourself a favor and just find ya a motor .