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Tamiya DB01RR

Old 10-21-2013, 12:22 PM
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Default Tamiya DB01RR

not the same as the durga if TLR22 2.0 can get a new thread why not this car ?




with the new HB and other car manufacturers trying the shorty long ways layout it got my attention so i started building a R with tons of upgrades.(pics coming)

but first pics of the Beauty RR

got torque steer ? LOL not that I've ever felt it
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya DB01RR-img_2156.jpg   Tamiya DB01RR-tamiya-10%E8me-db01rr-tamiya-db01rr-mod%E9lisme-autorcnewsmodelisme-off-road-10th2.jpg   Tamiya DB01RR-tamiya-10%E8me-db01rr-tamiya-db01rr-mod%E9lisme-autorcnewsmodelisme-off-road-10th3.jpg  
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Old 10-21-2013, 12:24 PM
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more pics
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya DB01RR-tamiya-10%E8me-db01rr-tamiya-db01rr-mod%E9lisme-autorcnewsmodelisme-off-road-10th4.jpg   Tamiya DB01RR-tamiya-10%E8me-db01rr-tamiya-db01rr-mod%E9lisme-autorcnewsmodelisme-off-road-10th5.jpg   Tamiya DB01RR-tamiyadb01rr.jpg   Tamiya DB01RR-tamiya-db01rr-chassis-kit-640x379.jpg  
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Old 10-21-2013, 12:51 PM
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Nice, I saw this while looking through tamiyas web page too.
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Old 10-21-2013, 02:51 PM
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The only major difference between the DB01R & RR seems to be the big bore shocks and oil filled gear diffs - which I found leaked.

I'm not sure if those gear diffs are 37T or 39T? If they're 39T, it'll have the new belts from the 511 upgrade kit. Hopefully then replacement belts are available as well.

Long story short - You'd be better off buying the RR from the get go if that's what you want. There are a 1000 stories of guys buying Durga's and Baldre's and even R's who spent a small fortune on upgrades - beyond the price of a well sorted TRF502 or 511!

You could always stick with the R, get the 501x outdrives, add some big bore springs and run it.

But buy the Baldre body - the Durga was hella fugly!
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Old 10-22-2013, 03:01 AM
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afaik, it should be 37T.

it's basically the R kit and taking some hop ups here and there and put it together. the only thing that interest me very much is the main chassis itself. i wont mind to get it for my son to swap out his old main chassis to be squarish lipo friendly.
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Old 10-22-2013, 07:57 AM
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what i liked about it is all the tuning options ....

unique chassis layout
sealed belt drive for outdoor
you can underdrive/overdrive F or R
2 types of slipper standard or F&R independently
ball or gear, diff gear diff has steel gears
angled steering rack

and tons of blue crack and tuning options 3 different type of front and rear arms
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Old 10-22-2013, 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by rkhess View Post
what i liked about it is all the tuning options ....

unique chassis layout
sealed belt drive for outdoor
you can underdrive/overdrive F or R
2 types of slipper standard or F&R independently
ball or gear, diff gear diff has steel gears
angled steering rack

and tons of blue crack and tuning options 3 different type of front and rear arms
The gear diffs has composite gears, but you can use the TA06 steel gears
Just finnished building our first DB01RR this week and the steering is more agressive than the TRF511 (7k front/ 3k rear) The weight is around 1730g.
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Old 10-22-2013, 10:12 AM
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what are the parts needed to overdrive the front?
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Old 10-22-2013, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by ridgeracer View Post
The gear diffs has composite gears, but you can use the TA06 steel gears
Just finnished building our first DB01RR this week and the steering is more agressive than the TRF511 (7k front/ 3k rear) The weight is around 1730g.
already have them installed with mugen 7k Front and 3k rear dont get back home till jan to race it LOL
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Old 10-22-2013, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by viktozzz View Post
afaik, it should be 37T.

it's basically the R kit and taking some hop ups here and there and put it together. the only thing that interest me very much is the main chassis itself. i wont mind to get it for my son to swap out his old main chassis to be squarish lipo friendly.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/12483786-post901.html

from viktozzz in durga thread

yes.. as a matter of fact, i'm using TA06 39T pulley with 16t center pulley for a different drive ratio in my db01.... if u wan to use the 18t center, i think the biggest for the F/R pulley should be 37.. unless we can find a 372mm belt for replacement.. instead of the stock 369mm.

TA05/ TA06 gear diff would work with the DB01, juz note the outdrives.. the shocks MUST have spacers below the piston so that the rear would not have full droop that the CVD drop out of the outdrives when in the air. mine happen when i rebuilt the shocks and forgot to put back the spacers, and one of my outdrives is abit chipped off..

oh, and i've recently changed my diff oil to 8k front, 6k rear... handling is better and the steering is better too.. however, i do have ppl telling me to use the same oil in both front and back, reason being the ball diff is same tightness for front and back, wich explains y i got more steering using ball diffs as compared to gear diff.
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Old 10-22-2013, 03:52 PM
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I would definitely like to try the overdrive front. I usually run 10k-15k front and 5k rear
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Old 10-22-2013, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by rkhess View Post
http://www.rctech.net/forum/12483786-post901.html

from viktozzz in durga thread

yes.. as a matter of fact, i'm using TA06 39T pulley with 16t center pulley for a different drive ratio in my db01.... if u wan to use the 18t center, i think the biggest for the F/R pulley should be 37.. unless we can find a 372mm belt for replacement.. instead of the stock 369mm.

TA05/ TA06 gear diff would work with the DB01, juz note the outdrives.. the shocks MUST have spacers below the piston so that the rear would not have full droop that the CVD drop out of the outdrives when in the air. mine happen when i rebuilt the shocks and forgot to put back the spacers, and one of my outdrives is abit chipped off..

oh, and i've recently changed my diff oil to 8k front, 6k rear... handling is better and the steering is better too.. however, i do have ppl telling me to use the same oil in both front and back, reason being the ball diff is same tightness for front and back, wich explains y i got more steering using ball diffs as compared to gear diff.
rkhess, u stalker....

anyway, the question earlier on is if the db01rr is using 37t or 39t gear diff...

i used 39t gear diff, but is with 16t center pulley so that the same 369mm belt would fit.. if u r to maintain the 18t center pulley, it wont fit no matter how loose u position the diff.

as for the 511, it's a different thing. it is still using the same 18th center pulley, but with slightly longer belts. i suspect belt length to be 372mm or so, to use with the 39t gear diff pulley.

with that being said, i've tried 39t gear diff pulley with 16t center on my trf501. no go on the 501, due to the risk of the rear plastic skid plate might push up and hit the pulley after a bad landing. thus, on my 501, i've stick back to using the 37t/ 18t combo. am still resetting up the thing after a bad accident previously, so would only be running my 501 again most prolly next weekend

to all those who have the RR, can share come pics of the new chassis? am interested in getting just the chassis to port my R over.
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Old 10-23-2013, 05:20 AM
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Originally Posted by viktozzz View Post
rkhess, u stalker....


to all those who have the RR, can share come pics of the new chassis? am interested in getting just the chassis to port my R over.
your welcome ?

and http://www.tamiya-model.com/shop/tam...-90063599.html quit being a cheapo
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Old 10-23-2013, 01:16 PM
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here some build pics

underside looks kinda crazy i know but she's flat on the set up board


diff upgrade gear diff with steel gears ...i read a 417x blog on how to build those diffs not to leak ..pretty much same diff ...i sanded both end of diff to help seal ...the little square parts were a little hard to get to but not that bad
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya DB01RR-imag0208.jpg   Tamiya DB01RR-imag0209.jpg   Tamiya DB01RR-imag0210.jpg  
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Old 10-23-2013, 01:36 PM
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as some noticed hardened hex screws throughout

some build tips i had to do to get the free drive train not hard w/ a dremmel or file and the included shims

red squares on what would be the diffs case's is were i could or had some rubbing so i dremmeled a little then with the slipper assembly you have to shim the diffs to move belt to center of pulleys .....its pretty easy to do shim or file or both and the diffs are super free



then with the eccentric belt tension-ers to prevent belt skipping/slipping ...the hop up i bought came with no bearings but i got extra from slipper so it all worked out ....it takes some patience but got them to barely touch belt and everything still felt free. .......i dont know if some use 5x10's but they dont work it the DB01 not enough room for them on the rear one, it made rear belt to tight the smaller ones slide a little side to side but still cover %70 of the belt width ...pic is before i went back and reshimmed rear diff little close to slipper disk
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya DB01RR-imag0215.jpg   Tamiya DB01RR-imag0221.jpg  
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