1LikesTamiya DB01RR
10-21-2013, 11:22 AM
#1
Tamiya DB01RR
not the same as the durga if TLR22 2.0 can get a new thread why not this car ?
with the new HB and other car manufacturers trying the shorty long ways layout it got my attention so i started building a R with tons of upgrades.(pics coming)
but first pics of the Beauty RR
got torque steer ? LOL not that I've ever felt it
with the new HB and other car manufacturers trying the shorty long ways layout it got my attention so i started building a R with tons of upgrades.(pics coming)
but first pics of the Beauty RR
got torque steer ? LOL not that I've ever felt it
10-21-2013, 01:51 PM
#4
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
The only major difference between the DB01R & RR seems to be the big bore shocks and oil filled gear diffs - which I found leaked.
I'm not sure if those gear diffs are 37T or 39T? If they're 39T, it'll have the new belts from the 511 upgrade kit. Hopefully then replacement belts are available as well.
Long story short - You'd be better off buying the RR from the get go if that's what you want. There are a 1000 stories of guys buying Durga's and Baldre's and even R's who spent a small fortune on upgrades - beyond the price of a well sorted TRF502 or 511!
You could always stick with the R, get the 501x outdrives, add some big bore springs and run it.
But buy the Baldre body - the Durga was hella fugly!
I'm not sure if those gear diffs are 37T or 39T? If they're 39T, it'll have the new belts from the 511 upgrade kit. Hopefully then replacement belts are available as well.
Long story short - You'd be better off buying the RR from the get go if that's what you want. There are a 1000 stories of guys buying Durga's and Baldre's and even R's who spent a small fortune on upgrades - beyond the price of a well sorted TRF502 or 511!
You could always stick with the R, get the 501x outdrives, add some big bore springs and run it.
But buy the Baldre body - the Durga was hella fugly!
10-22-2013, 02:01 AM
#5
afaik, it should be 37T.
it's basically the R kit and taking some hop ups here and there and put it together. the only thing that interest me very much is the main chassis itself. i wont mind to get it for my son to swap out his old main chassis to be squarish lipo friendly.
it's basically the R kit and taking some hop ups here and there and put it together. the only thing that interest me very much is the main chassis itself. i wont mind to get it for my son to swap out his old main chassis to be squarish lipo friendly.
10-22-2013, 06:57 AM
#6
what i liked about it is all the tuning options ....
unique chassis layout
sealed belt drive for outdoor
you can underdrive/overdrive F or R
2 types of slipper standard or F&R independently
ball or gear, diff gear diff has steel gears
angled steering rack
and tons of blue crack and tuning options 3 different type of front and rear arms
unique chassis layout
sealed belt drive for outdoor
you can underdrive/overdrive F or R
2 types of slipper standard or F&R independently
ball or gear, diff gear diff has steel gears
angled steering rack
and tons of blue crack and tuning options 3 different type of front and rear arms
10-22-2013, 07:41 AM
#7
what i liked about it is all the tuning options ....
unique chassis layout
sealed belt drive for outdoor
you can underdrive/overdrive F or R
2 types of slipper standard or F&R independently
ball or gear, diff gear diff has steel gears
angled steering rack
and tons of blue crack and tuning options 3 different type of front and rear arms
unique chassis layout
sealed belt drive for outdoor
you can underdrive/overdrive F or R
2 types of slipper standard or F&R independently
ball or gear, diff gear diff has steel gears
angled steering rack
and tons of blue crack and tuning options 3 different type of front and rear arms
Just finnished building our first DB01RR this week and the steering is more agressive than the TRF511 (7k front/ 3k rear) The weight is around 1730g.
to race it LOL
10-22-2013, 10:07 AM
#10
afaik, it should be 37T.
it's basically the R kit and taking some hop ups here and there and put it together. the only thing that interest me very much is the main chassis itself. i wont mind to get it for my son to swap out his old main chassis to be squarish lipo friendly.
it's basically the R kit and taking some hop ups here and there and put it together. the only thing that interest me very much is the main chassis itself. i wont mind to get it for my son to swap out his old main chassis to be squarish lipo friendly.
from viktozzz in durga thread
yes.. as a matter of fact, i'm using TA06 39T pulley with 16t center pulley for a different drive ratio in my db01.... if u wan to use the 18t center, i think the biggest for the F/R pulley should be 37.. unless we can find a 372mm belt for replacement.. instead of the stock 369mm.
TA05/ TA06 gear diff would work with the DB01, juz note the outdrives.. the shocks MUST have spacers below the piston so that the rear would not have full droop that the CVD drop out of the outdrives when in the air. mine happen when i rebuilt the shocks and forgot to put back the spacers, and one of my outdrives is abit chipped off..
oh, and i've recently changed my diff oil to 8k front, 6k rear... handling is better and the steering is better too.. however, i do have ppl telling me to use the same oil in both front and back, reason being the ball diff is same tightness for front and back, wich explains y i got more steering using ball diffs as compared to gear diff.
10-22-2013, 05:01 PM
#12
http://www.rctech.net/forum/12483786-post901.html
from viktozzz in durga thread
yes.. as a matter of fact, i'm using TA06 39T pulley with 16t center pulley for a different drive ratio in my db01.... if u wan to use the 18t center, i think the biggest for the F/R pulley should be 37.. unless we can find a 372mm belt for replacement.. instead of the stock 369mm.
TA05/ TA06 gear diff would work with the DB01, juz note the outdrives.. the shocks MUST have spacers below the piston so that the rear would not have full droop that the CVD drop out of the outdrives when in the air. mine happen when i rebuilt the shocks and forgot to put back the spacers, and one of my outdrives is abit chipped off..
oh, and i've recently changed my diff oil to 8k front, 6k rear... handling is better and the steering is better too.. however, i do have ppl telling me to use the same oil in both front and back, reason being the ball diff is same tightness for front and back, wich explains y i got more steering using ball diffs as compared to gear diff.
from viktozzz in durga thread
yes.. as a matter of fact, i'm using TA06 39T pulley with 16t center pulley for a different drive ratio in my db01.... if u wan to use the 18t center, i think the biggest for the F/R pulley should be 37.. unless we can find a 372mm belt for replacement.. instead of the stock 369mm.
TA05/ TA06 gear diff would work with the DB01, juz note the outdrives.. the shocks MUST have spacers below the piston so that the rear would not have full droop that the CVD drop out of the outdrives when in the air. mine happen when i rebuilt the shocks and forgot to put back the spacers, and one of my outdrives is abit chipped off..
oh, and i've recently changed my diff oil to 8k front, 6k rear... handling is better and the steering is better too.. however, i do have ppl telling me to use the same oil in both front and back, reason being the ball diff is same tightness for front and back, wich explains y i got more steering using ball diffs as compared to gear diff.
anyway, the question earlier on is if the db01rr is using 37t or 39t gear diff...
i used 39t gear diff, but is with 16t center pulley so that the same 369mm belt would fit.. if u r to maintain the 18t center pulley, it wont fit no matter how loose u position the diff.
as for the 511, it's a different thing. it is still using the same 18th center pulley, but with slightly longer belts. i suspect belt length to be 372mm or so, to use with the 39t gear diff pulley.
with that being said, i've tried 39t gear diff pulley with 16t center on my trf501. no go on the 501, due to the risk of the rear plastic skid plate might push up and hit the pulley after a bad landing. thus, on my 501, i've stick back to using the 37t/ 18t combo. am still resetting up the thing after a bad accident previously, so would only be running my 501 again most prolly next weekend
to all those who have the RR, can share come pics of the new chassis? am interested in getting just the chassis to port my R over.
10-23-2013, 04:20 AM
#13
10-23-2013, 12:16 PM
#14
here some build pics
underside looks kinda crazy i know but she's flat on the set up board
diff upgrade gear diff with steel gears ...i read a 417x blog on how to build those diffs not to leak ..pretty much same diff ...i sanded both end of diff to help seal ...the little square parts were a little hard to get to but not that bad
underside looks kinda crazy i know but she's flat on the set up board
diff upgrade gear diff with steel gears ...i read a 417x blog on how to build those diffs not to leak ..pretty much same diff ...i sanded both end of diff to help seal ...the little square parts were a little hard to get to but not that bad
10-23-2013, 12:36 PM
#15
as some noticed hardened hex screws throughout
some build tips i had to do to get the free drive train not hard w/ a dremmel or file and the included shims
red squares on what would be the diffs case's is were i could or had some rubbing so i dremmeled a little then with the slipper assembly you have to shim the diffs to move belt to center of pulleys .....its pretty easy to do shim or file or both and the diffs are super free
then with the eccentric belt tension-ers to prevent belt skipping/slipping ...the hop up i bought came with no bearings but i got extra from slipper so it all worked out ....it takes some patience but got them to barely touch belt and everything still felt free. .......i dont know if some use 5x10's but they dont work it the DB01 not enough room for them on the rear one, it made rear belt to tight the smaller ones slide a little side to side but still cover %70 of the belt width ...pic is before i went back and reshimmed rear diff little close to slipper disk
some build tips i had to do to get the free drive train not hard w/ a dremmel or file and the included shims
red squares on what would be the diffs case's is were i could or had some rubbing so i dremmeled a little then with the slipper assembly you have to shim the diffs to move belt to center of pulleys .....its pretty easy to do shim or file or both and the diffs are super free
then with the eccentric belt tension-ers to prevent belt skipping/slipping ...the hop up i bought came with no bearings but i got extra from slipper so it all worked out ....it takes some patience but got them to barely touch belt and everything still felt free. .......i dont know if some use 5x10's but they dont work it the DB01 not enough room for them on the rear one, it made rear belt to tight the smaller ones slide a little side to side but still cover %70 of the belt width ...pic is before i went back and reshimmed rear diff little close to slipper disk
