1LikesTamiya DB01RR
11-19-2013, 10:35 AM
#31
I just tried running a spool like setup on the front diff. It now handles like a TC. Fast & so quiet!
11-19-2013, 11:05 AM
#32
Has anybody put big bore springs on standard sized TRF dampers? I am in the middle of doing that on my B4.1, I am thinking of doing the same thing for my DB01. I am too cheap at the moment to buy new shocks all around. If I can get the benefit of the big bore spring on the stock damper it seems like a win-win.
11-19-2013, 11:13 AM
#33
I was thinking about doing this as well, since I have done it on my TRF201 but you'll have to cut quite a bit of lexan on the rear if you have the Durga body. Not too sure on the Baldre body though.
11-19-2013, 07:38 PM
#35
anyway, here's the pic of the mod.
am selling the car away as wld be giving my son another bug to drive..
11-20-2013, 08:28 PM
#37
Tech Adept
When you buy the DB01 you have to buy the single slipper clutch as an option. But when you buy even this it comes with a spring that is supposedly weaker than the black spring that comes stock with the DB01r single slipper.
I now have the black spring but I never got to test it out since I gave up trying to get the electronics on my Db01 going again. (This was almost a year ago now...)
So far I have never melted or burned through a single ball diff, but I have had to retighten them quite a few times (gets very tiring after a few times). But I do have and recommend a gear diff in the back.
I have a ball diff in the front that feels gritty as heck but still works.
OTOH, I have burned through quite a few of the spur pulleys. Belts seem durable enough; as long as those spur pulleys don't wear down or implode on themselves, the belts last. Problem is the spur pulleys. These things seem to break as soon as I do any sort of bashing that involves landing or such shocks as that.
There's just no metal or alloy alternative to those spurs. Wish there were, then I'd be able to confidently bring my DB01 out of retirement and run it again. I like my Db01 as it right now: Not broken (electronics notwithstanding).
11-21-2013, 07:36 AM
#40
Thanks for the post! Did you have to do anything out of the ordinary to get them to fit well? Just looking at a glance, the front spring retainer looks like it may be really close to hitting the lower control arm at full droop.
By comparison to TRF dampers, how does it run?
By comparison to TRF dampers, how does it run?
12-07-2013, 09:05 PM
#41
Tech Adept
Well, there's goes that. My Db01 wasn't broken and now it is.
After a tiny, itty, bitty jump and sideways/corkscrew landing from my skateboard ramp -- tiny! like, preschool type of jump, not more than 1 foot vertical and going at 2mph or something -- the front shock tower is broken and the part of the diff cover where the shock tower screws into is broken.
Haha. I finally get around to solving the electronics problem (it was the motor) and take DB01 for a run. I do love how the Db01 handles. It's extremely quiet and handles like a 1/10 buggy should, like a fly that buzzes around. But as soon as I jump it, it breaks.
I don't understand the point of 1/10 buggies anymore. Or even 1/10 RC -- breaks way too easily. Short course truck, buggy, it don't matter. Try to have some fun with these things and they will break. I'm sure the Db01rr does nothing to correct that. You can't have 1/10 weight with 1/8 durability no matter what you do.
12-15-2013, 05:47 AM
#42
Tech Rookie
Well, there's goes that. My Db01 wasn't broken and now it is.
After a tiny, itty, bitty jump and sideways/corkscrew landing from my skateboard ramp -- tiny! like, preschool type of jump, not more than 1 foot vertical and going at 2mph or something -- the front shock tower is broken and the part of the diff cover where the shock tower screws into is broken.
Haha. I finally get around to solving the electronics problem (it was the motor) and take DB01 for a run. I do love how the Db01 handles. It's extremely quiet and handles like a 1/10 buggy should, like a fly that buzzes around. But as soon as I jump it, it breaks.
I don't understand the point of 1/10 buggies anymore. Or even 1/10 RC -- breaks way too easily. Short course truck, buggy, it don't matter. Try to have some fun with these things and they will break. I'm sure the Db01rr does nothing to correct that. You can't have 1/10 weight with 1/8 durability no matter what you do.
After a tiny, itty, bitty jump and sideways/corkscrew landing from my skateboard ramp -- tiny! like, preschool type of jump, not more than 1 foot vertical and going at 2mph or something -- the front shock tower is broken and the part of the diff cover where the shock tower screws into is broken.
Haha. I finally get around to solving the electronics problem (it was the motor) and take DB01 for a run. I do love how the Db01 handles. It's extremely quiet and handles like a 1/10 buggy should, like a fly that buzzes around. But as soon as I jump it, it breaks.
I don't understand the point of 1/10 buggies anymore. Or even 1/10 RC -- breaks way too easily. Short course truck, buggy, it don't matter. Try to have some fun with these things and they will break. I'm sure the Db01rr does nothing to correct that. You can't have 1/10 weight with 1/8 durability no matter what you do.
-As for the diff covers, go the Carbon Reinforced parts, much tougher and definitely worth the extra dosh. Use machine thread screws that are the correct size. Using screws that are too long can weaken the parts.
-Arm wise, go TRF501X arms, they are a direct fit, stiffer, and much more durable than stock arms, since they're Fiber Reinforced instead of glass reinforced.
-T-Bone Racing makes bumpers for it. I've used T-Bones on my Summit before, and they're strong as heck.
-Learn to jump it. Land with the back wheels first. The DB01 has a LOT of rear suspension up-travel, so it's always best to land rear wheels first. You can also use the steering in the air to correct it's attitude, so you're less likely to land on one side.
The DB01 is intended to be a club-racer level kit. i.e, it's meant to be taken on occasional track days and maybe bashed around a local park. The DB01RR is a racier version of the kit, so it has more race-oriented parts on it, such as the TRF511 soft a-arms. It is possible to build the DB01 to be more basher friendly, but you have to understand, that like you said, it is a 1/10th scale, so you have to drive it with a little more... finesse.
^ this be my beast.
Last edited by rtmpgt; 12-15-2013 at 05:49 AM. Reason: Pics or it didn't happen, lulz
12-15-2013, 05:50 AM
#43
-Atomic Carbon in the UK (also known as Nortech racing) does 5mm and 4mm shock towers for this car. I have them on mine, haven't broken a shock tower for ages.
-As for the diff covers, go the Carbon Reinforced parts, much tougher and definitely worth the extra dosh. Use machine thread screws that are the correct size. Using screws that are too long can weaken the parts.
-Arm wise, go TRF501X arms, they are a direct fit, stiffer, and much more durable than stock arms, since they're Fiber Reinforced instead of glass reinforced.
-T-Bone Racing makes bumpers for it. I've used T-Bones on my Summit before, and they're strong as heck.
-Learn to jump it. Land with the back wheels first. The DB01 has a LOT of rear suspension up-travel, so it's always best to land rear wheels first. You can also use the steering in the air to correct it's attitude, so you're less likely to land on one side.
The DB01 is intended to be a club-racer level kit. i.e, it's meant to be taken on occasional track days and maybe bashed around a local park. The DB01RR is a racier version of the kit, so it has more race-oriented parts on it, such as the TRF511 soft a-arms. It is possible to build the DB01 to be more basher friendly, but you have to understand, that like you said, it is a 1/10th scale, so you have to drive it with a little more... finesse.
-As for the diff covers, go the Carbon Reinforced parts, much tougher and definitely worth the extra dosh. Use machine thread screws that are the correct size. Using screws that are too long can weaken the parts.
-Arm wise, go TRF501X arms, they are a direct fit, stiffer, and much more durable than stock arms, since they're Fiber Reinforced instead of glass reinforced.
-T-Bone Racing makes bumpers for it. I've used T-Bones on my Summit before, and they're strong as heck.
-Learn to jump it. Land with the back wheels first. The DB01 has a LOT of rear suspension up-travel, so it's always best to land rear wheels first. You can also use the steering in the air to correct it's attitude, so you're less likely to land on one side.
The DB01 is intended to be a club-racer level kit. i.e, it's meant to be taken on occasional track days and maybe bashed around a local park. The DB01RR is a racier version of the kit, so it has more race-oriented parts on it, such as the TRF511 soft a-arms. It is possible to build the DB01 to be more basher friendly, but you have to understand, that like you said, it is a 1/10th scale, so you have to drive it with a little more... finesse.
12-15-2013, 08:17 AM
#44
Tech Rookie
12-15-2013, 04:50 PM
#45
Tech Adept
I went ahead and replaced the broken diff cover and shock tower with the carbon reinforced versions of them. That's another 27 bucks down the hole.
I already have the 501x front arms in. So no problem there.
I believe the c reinforced version will be a significant improvement. But it doesn't help that I do my heaviest amount of RC bashing during winter time when the air is icy cold.
I already have the 501x front arms in. So no problem there.
I believe the c reinforced version will be a significant improvement. But it doesn't help that I do my heaviest amount of RC bashing during winter time when the air is icy cold.