1/10th scale 4wd Mod Buggy
#31
TLRacing

Just trying to be helpful. Ran the same motor in my XXX4.
#32
Tech Initiate
#33
Tech Addict

6.5 is my preferred motor. blinky mode indoors or with a slight boost for larger out door tracks... on my HB D413

#34
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)

Honestly if your asking these questions are you really ready for a wheeler?
This is not a class to learn on. Most of the fast guys in this class are not
going to tolerate bad driving. I you can hold your line and understand that
you need to yield the racing line to them until you pick up your pace then
you will be ok.
I would love for the wheeler class to grow as its one of the most fun cars
to drive there is. But you need to understand what your getting in to. Have
you tried to drive one at race pace?
If you still want to go for it remember to be courteous and aware until you
are up to speed. I agree with Dakota though a 7.5 is a good compromise
motor. You can do ALOT with gearing and ESC settings to tone it down.
This is not a class to learn on. Most of the fast guys in this class are not
going to tolerate bad driving. I you can hold your line and understand that
you need to yield the racing line to them until you pick up your pace then
you will be ok.
I would love for the wheeler class to grow as its one of the most fun cars
to drive there is. But you need to understand what your getting in to. Have
you tried to drive one at race pace?
If you still want to go for it remember to be courteous and aware until you
are up to speed. I agree with Dakota though a 7.5 is a good compromise
motor. You can do ALOT with gearing and ESC settings to tone it down.
#35
Tech Initiate
#36
Tech Addict
#37

I've ran everything from a 13.5 to a 6.5 in a 4mod and to me personally, a boosted 10.5 or non-boosted 8.5 is plenty. Now large outdoor tracks are probably a different story, but I don't get to run on tracks like that.
#38

1) I think it's pretty impressive how many "factory" racers have replied in this thread. I suspect the OP may not necessarily be aware of who is who, so to that end...Thank You guys 
2) I disagree with the user whom earlier posted about limiting EPA. Long story short, doing this will actually be detrimental as it will create heat.
What you should do is use your particular ESCs programming, ie, drop your current limit/punch control....
3) Batteries are key. Don't skimp.
I've been running a couple older sets for a while now. On my track, I started with an 8.5. It felt OK, but I always wanted more. I eventually got a good deal from a fellow racer on a 6.5. I was much more happy, but still using the same batts. Very recently, I got a good deal from another racin bud on a new, never run pack. All I can say is HOLY!!!!!! With the new batt, I am seriously thinking of going back to an 8.5.
All in all, my suggestion, be sure to start with good batteries and then start and learn to get around the track with an 8.5.

2) I disagree with the user whom earlier posted about limiting EPA. Long story short, doing this will actually be detrimental as it will create heat.
What you should do is use your particular ESCs programming, ie, drop your current limit/punch control....
3) Batteries are key. Don't skimp.
I've been running a couple older sets for a while now. On my track, I started with an 8.5. It felt OK, but I always wanted more. I eventually got a good deal from a fellow racer on a 6.5. I was much more happy, but still using the same batts. Very recently, I got a good deal from another racin bud on a new, never run pack. All I can say is HOLY!!!!!! With the new batt, I am seriously thinking of going back to an 8.5.
All in all, my suggestion, be sure to start with good batteries and then start and learn to get around the track with an 8.5.
#39
Tech Elite
iTrader: (54)

Honestly if your asking these questions are you really ready for a wheeler?
This is not a class to learn on. Most of the fast guys in this class are not
going to tolerate bad driving. I you can hold your line and understand that
you need to yield the racing line to them until you pick up your pace then
you will be ok.
I would love for the wheeler class to grow as its one of the most fun cars
to drive there is. But you need to understand what your getting in to. Have
you tried to drive one at race pace?
This is not a class to learn on. Most of the fast guys in this class are not
going to tolerate bad driving. I you can hold your line and understand that
you need to yield the racing line to them until you pick up your pace then
you will be ok.
I would love for the wheeler class to grow as its one of the most fun cars
to drive there is. But you need to understand what your getting in to. Have
you tried to drive one at race pace?
I do my best to stay out of the fast guys way but the elitist attitude will only drive people away from the hobby all together...not just this class.
#40


#41
Tech Elite
iTrader: (16)

I run a lot with my zx5, and am usually quite competitive. I consider myself to be an intermediate driver, but like the op I also have experience with other overpowered classes before I got into this class (4wd sc and ebuggy as the primary ones).
I generally suggest for our medium sized indoor track that people new to wheeler try an 8.5 if they already have one for a mod 2wd buggy, st, or sc. Then once they get the hang of the car, get more power. I run a 6.5 in blinks with a team powers 140amp esc, and nothing pulls me if I have traction, yet it stays smooth and linear so it is easy to avoid over jumping. I run the same electronics package on that medium bite indoor and on the giant worlds track in Chico when I went up there the week following worlds (with my lap times saying I'd be in about the mid of the third from worst main). It works on all and doesn't overheat, though I'd bother to put the esc fan on if running 10 min mains or something like that. One of the local racers ran his wheeler with a boosted 17.5 though, and while he was slowest down the straight and couldn't take the large triple in 1 shot, it made him super consistent and hard to get around. Once around him though, if you didn't crash, he had no chance.
In short, if you have a normal 540 can motor already that is smooth with your esc combo, try it while you get used to the car and set up. Once you do that, or if you don't have the spare electronics, then get at least a 7.5, and I would get a 6.5 unless you're always on a really small track. If it is too much at the start, use punch control or current limit to help tame it, then gradually give yourself more.
I generally suggest for our medium sized indoor track that people new to wheeler try an 8.5 if they already have one for a mod 2wd buggy, st, or sc. Then once they get the hang of the car, get more power. I run a 6.5 in blinks with a team powers 140amp esc, and nothing pulls me if I have traction, yet it stays smooth and linear so it is easy to avoid over jumping. I run the same electronics package on that medium bite indoor and on the giant worlds track in Chico when I went up there the week following worlds (with my lap times saying I'd be in about the mid of the third from worst main). It works on all and doesn't overheat, though I'd bother to put the esc fan on if running 10 min mains or something like that. One of the local racers ran his wheeler with a boosted 17.5 though, and while he was slowest down the straight and couldn't take the large triple in 1 shot, it made him super consistent and hard to get around. Once around him though, if you didn't crash, he had no chance.
In short, if you have a normal 540 can motor already that is smooth with your esc combo, try it while you get used to the car and set up. Once you do that, or if you don't have the spare electronics, then get at least a 7.5, and I would get a 6.5 unless you're always on a really small track. If it is too much at the start, use punch control or current limit to help tame it, then gradually give yourself more.
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