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TLR 22-4 THREAD

Old 02-08-2014, 11:42 AM
  #2701  
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Originally Posted by vito
looks like room for a shorty on the left
looks awesome vito, I'm very jealous
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Old 02-08-2014, 11:53 AM
  #2702  
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Originally Posted by jzwolen
100% correct, diff screws should be facing the left side (drivers side) of the car. I've marked my outdrives with a silver marker/paint pen to remind me for easy re-installs.

I have also broken both front arms and snapped hinge pins at the center seam. I will be omitting the grub screws from now on.
Originally Posted by frankenstang
Was told by horizon tech support last night to leave the grub screw OUT of the arm and just use the front holder to keep the pin in place. I mentioned to them that ALL of us were snapping the hinge pin and that the back half just falls out and allows the arm to wallow around in the back until the arm finally gives in and breaks. He said the team guys are NOT using the screw in the arm anymore.

He will send a message to the parts dept to see if they can sell the front pins separate from the rest of the ones for the rear. I really don't want to spend $16 everytime I need a front pin.
Originally Posted by fredmotokx
Same here, broke one hinge pin, the tab did not even break. I have to miss the race tomorrow because of this, I'am verry disappointed. Would like to know if this problem will be fixed or they will act like they are no problem.
Originally Posted by Autocratic
So why would the grub screws be causing the hinge pins to break more often than not using them?
We think the problem is not the hinge pin as we have done hardness testing on the pins and they are within our range of hardness. We think that the setscrew is interferring with the hingepin and causing the hinge pin to be stressed and then under heavy impact the hinge pin breaks. For now we are recommending that racers don't run the setscrews and allow the bumper to hold the hinge pin in. We have been running it like this with no problem. What's even more ironic is that we never saw this during any of our testing with the preproduction models and that I can tell you is frustrating for us. Even at the WC we never had any issues and that track was very hard on cars.
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Old 02-08-2014, 11:59 AM
  #2703  
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What's even more ironic is that we never saw this during any of our testing with the preproduction models and that I can tell you is frustrating for us. Even at the WC we never had any issues and that track was very hard on cars.


And now you (awesomely) have a NEW crowd of amateurs and former wheeler guys running the 22-4 that are way harder on this car than the team testers were.

It's awesome to drive and makes me feel like a hero, I just need to learn how to drive without crashing.
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Old 02-08-2014, 12:03 PM
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Ok, set screws are back out...for now i guess


Originally Posted by Todd Hodge
We think the problem is not the hinge pin as we have done hardness testing on the pins and they are within our range of hardness. We think that the setscrew is interferring with the hingepin and causing the hinge pin to be stressed and then under heavy impact the hinge pin breaks. For now we are recommending that racers don't run the setscrews and allow the bumper to hold the hinge pin in. We have been running it like this with no problem. What's even more ironic is that we never saw this during any of our testing with the preproduction models and that I can tell you is frustrating for us. Even at the WC we never had any issues and that track was very hard on cars.

Last edited by canbarelyhover; 02-08-2014 at 12:04 PM. Reason: wrong quote
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Old 02-08-2014, 12:26 PM
  #2705  
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Is anyone setup running the clicker ? I set mine up with it due to running on a smallish indoor track with quite a few 180's. Tomorrow is the maiden voyage and I am quite excited.
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Old 02-08-2014, 01:54 PM
  #2706  
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Pros are never as hard on cars as regular racers. Unless they were specifically trying to break them in testing to find their limit they shouldn't have been the final word on durability of the car. In my humble opinion.
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Old 02-08-2014, 01:59 PM
  #2707  
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TLR 22 front shock shafts are too short. I just got back from Hobbytown. Talked to another racer that went thru 2 front hinge pins and an A arm already.

Bought a set of TLR rear shock shafts for the 22b for $9.00. That's half of spending $18 on a full set of pins, 4 of which I'll never need. (jinxed myself now) 3mm nuts at hardware store were 11 cents each. Cheap fix for now. I have to get a handle on spending money racing/crashing toys!
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Old 02-08-2014, 02:29 PM
  #2708  
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TLR, please make some front hinge pins without the notches cut into them. Preferably a little longer with the back side threaded like the pins on the rear hubs.

Thank you

Aftermarket companies (JConcepts etc.) get busy...
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Old 02-08-2014, 02:51 PM
  #2709  
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TLR shafts TLR5088

These will be going into the buggy tomorrow.

Pretty much every time I broke an arm I also broke a hinge pin. A few times I realized the pin was broken before the arm broke and I replaced the pin. My theory is that pins are breaking then the arms.

I had to buy the race kit just for the arms once. Broke 4 arms and a few hinge pins already. Damn. This "issue" has been really expensive for me.

I love the car. Early adopters always have to deal with these things I guess.
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Old 02-08-2014, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by LosiRacer33
I had to buy the race kit just for the arms once.
That's hardcore
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Old 02-08-2014, 03:01 PM
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I wouldn't run it without the grub screw on the front hinge pin, then you will just be replacing bumpers from the pin chewing them up. TLR what is the official fix, work around, plan of action to address this?
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Old 02-08-2014, 03:09 PM
  #2712  
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Originally Posted by nicmo
This was my solution for the hingepins, never broke again. They are the old 22 rear shock shafts lol, front ones should probably work also.



think ill be doing this fix soon.

im sure TLR will come up with a good solution to the hingepin issue. but guys just give them time.
so back off with all the negative comments for now and give them a chance.
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Old 02-08-2014, 03:15 PM
  #2713  
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The longer rear 22 buggy shafts will allow an E clip to be placed to keep the pin from sliding forward. There's a little bit of room for slop, but I don't think they will move much set up like this...




Run the nut down all the way to the shoulder of the shaft and cut off the rest. I used red loctite on the threads. They don't ever need to come apart. Grub screws are out
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Old 02-08-2014, 03:23 PM
  #2714  
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Default replacement hinge pins

Do these fit? TLR6079

From the dimensions in the manual, it looks like they should.
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Old 02-08-2014, 04:13 PM
  #2715  
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Originally Posted by kiwidave72
think ill be doing this fix soon.

im sure TLR will come up with a good solution to the hingepin issue. but guys just give them time.
so back off with all the negative comments for now and give them a chance.
From the 36 minute video the guys said this buggy has been in testing and development for two years. $450 plus is a ton for a toy car without electronics and you have the balls to make this statement??
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