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Old 06-17-2005, 08:06 PM   #1
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Default nitro sport wont stay running

i have tried everything to keep my sport running. it will start and sometimes idle but then die. sometime when it starts it full throttle and then just die. any thoughts? i have messed with the carb valves and still nothing works
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Old 06-17-2005, 09:26 PM   #2
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This is a used truck and motor right? Most likely the piston and sleeve need to be replaced. They don't like to idle when they get loose.

Do you know where the carb needles are at from closed? I'd set the high speed 2 1/12 turns out from closed. Low speed 1 1/2 out from closed.

When I say from closed, that means turn the screw all the way in until it gently bottoms out then turn it out. If you screw it in to far you'll mess up the needles.

Clockwise leans the motor out (less fuel to motor)
Counterclockwise richens the motor (more fuel to motor)

Take the air cleaner off and set the idle screw so the barrel stays open just over a 1/16 of an inch or so. If it's worn you'll need it to stay open wider than normal.

Make sure the glow plug is good. Only real way to do that is to replace it.

Good luck, and write in if any more problems. What motor is it anyhow?
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Old 06-17-2005, 09:54 PM   #3
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its the trx .15 and yes its used. i got it to start on one pull and idle now. i took the engine apart and cleaned it. but now when i got to pull the trigger it wont move, the carb opens and nothing, just idle. the carb need, big one, is at about 1 1/2 to turns out.the smaller one, i think, is to far out but when i turn it in it wants to take off. i just bought the durbro igniter with test button and the test tells me the glow plug is working. i dont know if its good but its working.

ps. thanks for the info
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Old 06-17-2005, 10:06 PM   #4
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i just checked the carb valve. its 2 turns out. when i pull the trigger to go it takes forever for it to go anywhere then all the sudden after it creeps along the floor it takes off, so confusing.
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Old 06-17-2005, 10:32 PM   #5
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That just means your carb is out of adjustment.

When you tune you first tune the high speed needle to get the top end you want. A bit rich is always better.

Then you tune the low end to get the acceleration you want from idle.

Then retune the idle setting. When you lean out the low speed needle it makes the idle higher if you have to lean it much. So you then have to turn the idle screw counter clockwise to lower the idle. Sometimes motors are set to rich on the low speed, then compensated with an idle screw that is holding the carb open to far to keep from stalling. A sign of this is after a high speed run when you let off the engine keeps revving a bit.

If you're creeping off idle like that and giving it a good bunch of throttle, just screw the high speed needle in clockwise an 1/8 of a turn at a time. Glad you got it working.
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Old 06-17-2005, 11:09 PM   #6
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how finiky are the carbs? i turn the high speed valve in from 2 turn out and the idle goes up and the truck wants to move, so i go to turn the idle valve and b4 i get a chance to the thing goes full throttle then dies. i think im going to take it to the local store and see if they can tune it. or atleast show me how to. i hate it when i cant get something to work thanks for the help
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Old 06-18-2005, 01:24 PM   #7
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got it to work finally all tho it has no take off power its really fast. i just put a 72 tooth spur gear on it today and it has no get up and go but top end is good and its really hard to start. its an old motor should i consider getting a new one? i bought all the upgrades to make it a rusty, havent put them on yet, whitch engine should i go with, if i get one, for lots of power out of the gate?
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Old 06-19-2005, 01:14 AM   #8
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Does the engine seem boggy down low now?

A good engine would have to be the O.S CVRX.

Sean
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Old 06-19-2005, 06:58 AM   #9
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yeah. its slow taking off but once the engine gets wond up its fast
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Old 06-22-2005, 03:31 PM   #10
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would this be be a good engine for it for lots of take off power?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...2&I=LXGGP6&P=K
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Old 06-22-2005, 03:43 PM   #11
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That's a whole lotta motor for any stadium truck. You should like it.
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Old 06-23-2005, 07:43 AM   #12
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so it will fit? i just got all my sport to rusty conversion parts in, exepts for 3 parts, and am going to start rebuilding and desided since im converting i might as well get a new motor if its a lot of motor should i get a new trans too?
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Old 06-23-2005, 03:54 PM   #13
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I'm thinking it should fit in as it's made to go in place of small block motors. Not positve though as I don't know much about rustys.

I'd leave the tranny alone. Just take it apart, clean it, and make sure it's assmebled properly and you should be good to go.
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Old 06-23-2005, 05:46 PM   #14
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The .12 has much more usable power.I have an O.S .18 in my Evader and to tell you the truth i cannot get past at least 10mph on the road out the front of my house because it takes so long to spool up unlike the .12 but when the .18 starts building RPM's thats when you start to get scared.

Sean
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Old 06-24-2005, 10:18 AM   #15
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im looking for take off power so i should go with the .12 not the .18?
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